akafixture

Will be tackling this repair this weekend. I hear noise when I go into driveways and my buddy was out side and said he would hear rattling! not good.

monkey92

iTrader: (3)

how often should the ball joints be changed on a car that is lowered? replaced mine 2 years ago but im starting to hear some noises again.

702GS

I would assume if you are hearing "noises again" its time for a BJ swap!

702GS

Just checking these are the correct parts. From Sewell website.

Ball Joints-Ball Joint Set (L&R) Part #: 433403941502 (In Stock) $191.78
Front Suspension-Outer Tie Rod Set Part #: 454605901502 (In Stock) $146.42

Total price without shipping: $338.20

This seems kinda steep based on other prices I have seen in this thread, thoughts?

monkey92

iTrader: (3)

use your clublexus sewell discount. i believe i paid roughly 60 bucks that first time i changed them.

702GS

I was not aware I was eligible for a "clublexus" sewell discount, where can I find more information?

702GS

sorry, noob mistake. Signed up to Sewell and b00m!

lvfstde

SenecaRex

Haven't read all the comments, but if you are replacing the tie rod ends, there's really no sense in trying to remove them from the LBJ. Just remove the LBJ, then twist the LBJ/tie rod end off as one unit, instead of pressing the tie rod end out of the LBJ and taking them off separately.
Saves a little bit of time!

sbagdon

Finally found this with Google, posting for reference:


Lower ball joint castle nut to lower control arm: 112 ft lbs (152 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Attach lower ball joint to knuckle, hand tighten, do not torque yet.
Outer tie rod end castle nut to lower ball joint: 48 ft lbs (65 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Lower ball joint bolt to knuckle: 83 ft lbs (113 Nm)


Caliper bolt to knuckle: 87 ft lbs (118 Nm)


If anyone has access to the factory manual, what is the part number for the SST to remove the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint? Thanks!

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

All you need is a hammer.

sbagdon

You are correct. All you need is a hammer. I want to use a proper tool. I have a rather extensive collection of Toyota/OTC SSTs that I've accumulated over the years, and was curious if I had the prescribed tool. I missed out on the last set of oem '98 factory service manuals on eBay, so I'm stuck until another set comes up. In the meantime, just trying to see if I have that part number buried somewhere, or not. Thanks.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

This thread is great! I appreciate everyone who took the time to give pictures, tips and advice. I thoroughly inspected everything in my suspension by taking it apart with the help of this.

sbagdon

Did the lower ball joints yesterday. SST I had for lug studs (that's called out for ball joints for other models) didn't work, yet some ball joint separators had lying around did the job. Typical fixing of previous-mechanic's work... fortunately all the bolts were the correct thread, yet the caliper left-upper bolt was 18mm... and the left tie rod end had no cotter pin. Argh.

Both of the replaced ball joints had a metal-on-metal feel, when rotating them by hand. The new ones were very-difficult to move yet very smooth. Car is noticeably smoother at highway speeds, less float and wander, and a little steering wheel wiggle at highway speeds is gone (start to hurt wrist after about 20min of highway driving).

airahcaz

Did you do yours after 2 years? It has been 5 years for me and wondering if I also now need to do them again.

Folks, how often do you change yours? Not a one time replacement for sure it seems?