MrLex22

Just got new shoes (20's) and im noticing now more than ever that between 50-65 MPH the whole column including wheel shakes very badly but over 70 and below 50 its fine??? would love some feedback guys. thanks in advance

japscrap

hope this helps but i've always found putting bigger wheels on makes the car super sensitive anyway but it's likely when the new wheels were fitted enough care wasn't given to torquing the wheelnuts and the discs may have warped. i have exact same symptom as yours and warped discs is the problem

Alexus_300

iTrader: (4)

steering wheel shake with bigger wheels has nothing to do with disc warp because you're not constantly applying the brakes to have it vibrate. More than likely, it is your wheel balance that is off. What I strongly recomend is a Hunter Road Force balance on the new wheels as this type of balancing applies both lateral and horizontal road force to the wheels when balancing. This will more than likely resolve your issue with steering wheel vibration. My steering wheel was shaking before I had this done and was resolve with this type of balance..

MrLex22

Good Look Guys! I Ll Have To Check That Out.

cliffud

iTrader: (3)

do you have hub centric rings? did the wheels come with them?

rodel

iTrader: (3)

If they're not hubcentric, get hubcentric rings and have the wheels rebalanced.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

if you have over 60k miles and live in region where it gets cold and possibly have rough roads to drive on you may need the following

new ball joints and outer tie rod ends , they wear fast and are of a poor design for they were made for comfort and not perf and having larger then 18in on there amplifies the problem due to a larger contact patch on the road


castor arm bushing needs to be upgraded to daizen poly bushings , these are the main source of shimmy and vibration troubles , they were designed poorly and lex/toy knows it . they allow way to much deflection under load and they are a integral part of susp keeping its alignment on par during load changes , upping to 20,s again greatly amplifies the problem for if castor angle changes during loads so does camber and toe

Benjamin T

iTrader: (2)

i have the same problem

between 50-70mph, it shakes like hell... but before and after this speed range is like being in the eye of a storm... smooth sailing.

i've had my wheels balanced twice, the second time with a hunter road force balancer, and they were perfectly fine. i haven't gone in for an alignment yet because there is a 2 week waiting list for the best shop in town, but there is no abnormal wear on my tires. i do not have hubcentric rings... i'm trying to source them at this moment.

my tie rod ends are still good, according to the mechanic who did the inspection, but one of my lower control arm bushings has a noticable crack in it... i want to go daizen, but all these complaints about cold weather squeaks have kept me from doing it

MrLex22

So, it still shook after hunter road force? The Daizen front set of polyurethane control arm bushings are 99$. Do I also need to replace the tie rods and lower ball joints as lexforlife suggests?

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

As Ed, mentioned if you have over 60k it would be a bad idea.. I just changed my ball joints 2 days ago and the car is just shy of 60k. They were pretty loose considering the milage and the roads here are pretty smooth.. If your going to do the Daizens than i would also do the ball joints and tie rods..

The Daizen kit and tie rods are next on my list..

GL..

movinquick

iTrader: (1)

change your ball joints. i have 20s in ny. i use to have the exact same shake as you describe. it was to the point that i didn't want to drive the cayr.

one of the members here helped me change the lower ball joints (which were broken) and the tie rods (one side was leaking) and its been a HUGE improvement. if you have the money, change the tie rods with the lower ball joints, after the mechanic removes the ball joint, there is only one bolt holding the tie rod in place so it shouldn't be any more money for labor (at least for an honest mechanic).

i got my 20s rebalanced (i don't think it was the road force one that everyone says to use) and aligned with lasers. alignment was $45 with 20s! i cut me a $10 discount. anyway, the shake and vibrations are gone, now i'm driving everywhere with my car.

btw, those hubcentric rings or whatever will help. i already have them on my rims so i can't tell you how they ride without them.

4ntvings

iTrader: (6)

seems like the shakes are more susceptible with larger wheels like 20".

Benjamin T

iTrader: (2)

do tire pressures play into this at all? what is everyone else running?