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Great stuff! Curious, how much more quickly do you think the non high friction pads will wear out? Also, just to verify, are you saying you would seldom if ever have the rotors ground down?
I would expect the low dust pads will last longer than the originals.
I agree with Gernby - I chose the "old" black pads fully expecting them not last as long as the new green pads, since they're a more aggressive compound. Also, as has been posted already, it's only appropriate to resurface rotors if they're severely scored (in which case you should really replace them).
Because 1) I have 19,000 miles on my brakes and wouldn't feel right taking my car in for them to "fix" a problem I don't have, and, 2) I don't care about the brake dust - I like the OEM pads.
Javier
That's amazing that you're not bothered by the brake dust! Prior to getting the new lesser dust pads, my friends always asked me why I had gunmetal rims up front and not the back. Bastards. LOL! Bottom line, I couldn't stand the damn dust!
Nice write-up.
Where did you get those decals? Don't they discolor or peel off over time?
Also, was it hard to take the calipers off and replace the pads? If the IS is similar to other cars, taking the calipers off wouldn't be a big of deal.
Thanks for the write-up. Bookmarked for later. One comment / question though. You weren't doing this with the car held up by the sissor jack were you? If so -- I'd recommend using jack stands in the furture. This was a mistake.
Nice write-up.
Where did you get those decals? Don't they discolor or peel off over time?
Also, was it hard to take the calipers off and replace the pads? If the IS is similar to other cars, taking the calipers off wouldn't be a big of deal.
Taking the calipers off is not that difficult, but why do it if you don't have to? That's like dropping the oil pan to change the engine oil. This is the method prescribed by the factory service manual, and it's also what makes the brake job on the 2IS so easy to do. The decals I got from a guy in Houston - PM me if you want his info. I like them because 1) they're small, 2)they're a "polished metal" finish, and 3) they were $12 shipped.
Originally Posted by jdoolitt
Thanks for the write-up. Bookmarked for later. One comment / question though. You weren't doing this with the car held up by the sissor jack were you? If so -- I'd recommend using jack stands in the furture. This was a mistake.
I used 4 wheel chocks, a ramp, and two jacks - more than enough to properly secure the car. I would have preferred to use jackstands (much easier), but if you can tell me where to find a jack stand that fits under this car, and I'll rush out to buy one.
I used 4 wheel chocks, a ramp, and two jacks - more than enough to properly secure the car. I would have preferred to use jackstands (much easier), but if you can tell me where to find a jack stand that fits under this car, and I'll rush out to buy one.
Javier
One thing that I'm really disappointed about whith this car is how difficult it is to put on jack stands. I really haven't figured out a good / safe way to get all 4 wheels off the ground at the same without a lift. I've thought about posting a thread for suggestions for almost a year, but keep forgetting.
All of my Hondas had a reinforced jack point at each corner of the car. Why doesn't Toyota do this?
When you push in the pistons on the caliper do you need to open the bleeder or the brake fluid cap or is it safe to just push them in ??
You should not open the bleed screws. However, if you keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off all the time as the pads wear, then you should suck some fluid out of the reservoir before pushing the pistons in.
04-18-07, 08:58 AM
Bastards. LOL! Bottom line, I couldn't stand the damn dust! 
