Lexbox

I personally put the Rotora rotors and new Axxis Deluxe pads in the middle of March. During the install, you have to push the pots out to accomodate the new pads and in doing so the fluid in the resevoir will rise. No fluid spilled over or anything but it was close. Well, about the middle of June, my brake light on the dash would come on when I would slow down or brake. The brake fluid was low so I added about half of a small container of brake fluid. Its doing the same thing again now. I have not pulled a rim to inspect the pad level nor am I able to find a leak. So I guess I have some basic questions.

1. Is this common?
2. How many times on average does it need to be refilled before replacing the pads?
3. At what thickness level should the pad be replaced?
4. Since the rotors are higher quality than stock, should I have the Rotora's turned before installing new pads?
5. Which pads wear down quicker, front or rear?
6. How many times can the Rotora's be turned?

Thanks guys... and girl.

GUNRU-GS4

I don't think your problem is very common. I put on all new Rotora rotors w/ Akebono pads about the exact same time you did. I have about 8k miles on them now. My brake fluid has stayed level and no lights. From what I've read it's hard to find a place to turn slotted rotors. Your front pads should wear quicker than the rear.

The standard thickness for pads is 11.0 mm (0.433 in), minimum thickness is 1.0 mm (0.039). Rotor standard is 32.0 mm (1.260 in) minimum is 30.0 mm (1.181). This is per the Lexus manual.

Tammy

It is worth the look to remove all four wheels, one at a time.

Insure the brake fluid is not leaking around the caliper cup. When they leak, it's usually very apparent.

Observe the brake pads just installed for equal wear that is not excessive. A leaking caliper would have drained onto the pads it holds and used.

Equal wear relates to pads on both sides of a single disk; comparing the wear from disk to disk. Just eyeball it, no need to measure for exactness.

A sticking caliper is known to excessively wear one of the pads, while the other looks almost new.

If you observe no wet calipers, no indication of a leak, and the four calipers are dry .... The problem may be the master cylinder leaking the fluid past it's double piston and leaking the brake fluid into the brake vacuum booster assembly.

Lexbox

Yup, the driver-side rear is leaking a little. I was only able to tell because it is eating some of the white caliper paint on the inside. I guess its time for some steel braided lines.

TLW

or use a line wrench and make sure your fitting are tight

Tammy

Worst case, you'll need to replace the caliper.

(The caliper piston bore rusts and creates pitting in the smooth surface. Fluid then leaks past the o-ring seal on the piston.)

Lexbox

Well Im pretty sure I already know what happened. I followed the LS guide on swapping out the rotors and I accidentally removed the brake line. After realizing it I put it back on and Im almost positive I tightened it too tight and must have bent the brass fitting. I will break it down Friday and find out for sure.