Rear upper CA helpful hint!
07-28-06, 01:04 AM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Rear upper CA helpful hint!
This is just a helpful hint for anyone who gets the unfortunate task of removing the rear upper control arms for any reason.
When you take them off, there is a nut on the blind side that has an extra flange with a stop on it. This stop hits part of the crossmember and stops the nut from turning, so you can just turn the bolt side and loosen or tighten the bolt without needing to hold the nut.
Good in theory, but bad in execution.
These bolts are always super duper tight, so when you try to take them off, more often than not, you end up putting so much torsional force on the stop, that it bends the cheesy tab that holds it in place. Then it lifts up, and doesn't "stop" like it's supposed to do.
Best bet is to take a long screwdriver or something, tap off the c clip holding on the stop, and remove it. Then use a 19mm wrench in there to hold things
Ok, once it's off, putting it back is the real pain.
Of course the cheesy tab can't possibly hold the stop again. If you try, you will be sorry. It will bend and get all mangled, and you will have to take everything apart again. Reaching that stuff is already bad enough as it is between the crossmember and body, let alone going back in to take off something all bent up.
So here is one of my closely kept secret tips that makes things infinitely easier:
Remove the tab and c clip completely, and weld the stop ring to the nut. This makes it a whole assembly with no possibility of bending, mangling, etc.
Mig welding is ok, tig would be much better, as I did on this example. Beware though that you have to clean up the metal before welding, but anyone that welds should already know this.
Enjoy!!!!!!!
TM Engineering
Maybe this should be a sticky
****************************************
Additional helpful info:
Normally I don't see rusted cars like the east coasters have, of course if everything is rusted you are pretty much screwed and have to resort to cutting, drilling, whatever. But to get a little more working space you can unbolt the crossmember and drop it down a little, just be careful not to damage the brake or abs lines. It's going to hit the exhaust most likely so you won't get a lot of extra room, but every little bit helps.
No matter what even if you end up getting new nuts from the dealer for this, I'd still recommend doing the welding thing. I will try to get a picture of them as-installed on a crossmember that is out of the car.
When you take them off, there is a nut on the blind side that has an extra flange with a stop on it. This stop hits part of the crossmember and stops the nut from turning, so you can just turn the bolt side and loosen or tighten the bolt without needing to hold the nut.
Good in theory, but bad in execution.
These bolts are always super duper tight, so when you try to take them off, more often than not, you end up putting so much torsional force on the stop, that it bends the cheesy tab that holds it in place. Then it lifts up, and doesn't "stop" like it's supposed to do.
Best bet is to take a long screwdriver or something, tap off the c clip holding on the stop, and remove it. Then use a 19mm wrench in there to hold things
Ok, once it's off, putting it back is the real pain.
Of course the cheesy tab can't possibly hold the stop again. If you try, you will be sorry. It will bend and get all mangled, and you will have to take everything apart again. Reaching that stuff is already bad enough as it is between the crossmember and body, let alone going back in to take off something all bent up.
So here is one of my closely kept secret tips that makes things infinitely easier:
Remove the tab and c clip completely, and weld the stop ring to the nut. This makes it a whole assembly with no possibility of bending, mangling, etc.
Mig welding is ok, tig would be much better, as I did on this example. Beware though that you have to clean up the metal before welding, but anyone that welds should already know this.
Enjoy!!!!!!!
TM Engineering
Maybe this should be a sticky
****************************************
Additional helpful info:
Normally I don't see rusted cars like the east coasters have, of course if everything is rusted you are pretty much screwed and have to resort to cutting, drilling, whatever. But to get a little more working space you can unbolt the crossmember and drop it down a little, just be careful not to damage the brake or abs lines. It's going to hit the exhaust most likely so you won't get a lot of extra room, but every little bit helps.
No matter what even if you end up getting new nuts from the dealer for this, I'd still recommend doing the welding thing. I will try to get a picture of them as-installed on a crossmember that is out of the car.
Last edited by DoubleWhoosh; 07-28-06 at 05:50 PM.
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07-28-06, 10:37 AM
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Originally Posted by DoubleWhoosh
Maybe this should be a sticky
Originally Posted by ACleanSC4
2nd a sticky for this...
Originally Posted by AutoCoutureSC
If i were MOD, i'd sticky this.... 
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07-28-06, 05:45 PM
#8
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mikeloc24
Todd, what's this repair run at your shop? laborwise I mean? (replacing rear uca's on an SC).
-M.
-M.
Labor for R&R arms with no bushing work is 250.
I guess I should have mentioned that the ball joint is horribly difficult to remove on this one too.
I think I'll go back and edit the first thread now that I think about it...
04-02-07, 05:50 PM
#11
Lexus Test Driver
So, yeah. The rear ball joint seems to be stuck. I can't seem to break it for sheeat. Now I've also ruined the ball joint boot. The boot isn't replaceable, is it?
EDIT: Bought RUCA from forum member and had shop finish it. The rear is a biatch. It's worth it to take it somewhere unless you got really mad skills.
EDIT: Bought RUCA from forum member and had shop finish it. The rear is a biatch. It's worth it to take it somewhere unless you got really mad skills.
Last edited by kyoso23; 05-11-07 at 11:06 PM.
05-18-07, 01:41 PM
#13
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The tab on the back of the nut, if its doing its job it will flip over to other side and hit the metal and not move any more so you can unscrew the bolt. Then you have to reach behind for the nut.
Harder to get the nut started when putting back on.
Harder to get the nut started when putting back on.
07-11-07, 01:07 PM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
If you try to let the tab and the stop do what they are supposed to do, the tab washer will bend off the nut, then you are screwed. The stop isn't a good stop, it has a slight roundness to it, which causes it to lift up, then unseat the c-clip, then that's it, you are in big big trouble.
It's a very bad design, and doesnt work well at all once the parts have some age and corrosion on them.
Maybe this thread should just be locked, it's not a discussion thread, it's a tech information thread.