Rear upper CA helpful hint!
12-31-07, 03:05 PM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1)all ball joints - backing off nut so its flush with the stud end allows you to strike the end without damaging the end or the threads
2) leaving spring/strut attached while removing front upper/lower ball joints allows the use of spring pressure in aiding joint removal. Loosen but LEAVE NUT ON (so the assembly doesn't fly apart on you - ouch!), then strike the hub/spindle smartly where the joint shaft goes through - usually pops easily after 3 or 4 blows
3) SC model upper CA ball joint: PITA!! However, as usual, low tech works well. Using the head of a hatchet as a wedge, making sure the sharp edge won't hit a line or bind on the carrier, place between end of ball joint (with nut loosened and flush as above) and axle carrier and strike with hammer HARD! Even my rusty ones came apart OK.
4) localized heating with a propane torch, and using penetrant, in that order, helps on all seized or rusty fasteners
5) Biggest tip of all - don't do as I did. DON'T BUY a car from an area where there's more salt than asphalt in the winter! Buying a southern car will save you big bucks in the long run. Once I got into the job, it became bigger and bigger due to the deterioration of all things metal under the car. Curiously, the body itself is pretty good, due to decent undercoating. Now I've got all Daizen bushings (ball joints were ALL good), new sway links, some new brake lines, a whole bunch of broken-drilled-tapped fasteners, and all new parking brake hardware. Love my car, though.
Good tip on the retainer welding. I just finished a replacement of the rusted rear sub frame on my 400, had to cut almost every bolt, including those expensive cam adjustment ones, to remove the CA's. Got a 95 GS300 frame and all the bolts from a wrecker - all the same as the SC.
My retainers had disintegrated. I used a 19mm spanner easily enough when torquing the control arm bolts, used Loctite and left the retainers off.
Last edited by Juzscy; 12-31-07 at 03:10 PM.
03-26-12, 10:21 PM
#21
Back from the dead!!!! To the people who are experiencing loud clunking sound when shifting to R or D at cold start, or even at warm when car is at an angle, this is the ultimate fix to your problem!!!! I can attest to it and I've finally removed the sound after 1 year of having my SC and almost replacing every single bushing my SC has, this is the only fix that made it all disappear!!!! Good luck people!!!!
04-06-13, 02:41 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RUCA bushings?
Excllent tips in here, and I'd like to put them to use, however...
Today I discovered that the passenger side RUCA bushings are shot on my '93 SC400. I've searched through 12 different websites now, and I can't find them for sale anywhere. I can find the entire RUCA's for $540+ each, but not the bushings by themselves. Is there some reason that the bushings are so difficult to find? Are they not intended to be removed from the RUCA's, or something? If not, does anyone know where to find a new set?
Thanks!
Today I discovered that the passenger side RUCA bushings are shot on my '93 SC400. I've searched through 12 different websites now, and I can't find them for sale anywhere. I can find the entire RUCA's for $540+ each, but not the bushings by themselves. Is there some reason that the bushings are so difficult to find? Are they not intended to be removed from the RUCA's, or something? If not, does anyone know where to find a new set?
Thanks!
12-18-14, 07:12 PM
#30
