help....when braking hard pulls right.
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help....when braking hard pulls right.
well this doesnt happen all the time just when im rolling around 35mph and i need to do an abrupt stop.
when i cruise normal and brake normal no problems..im thinking maybe a stuck piston?
when i cruise normal and brake normal no problems..im thinking maybe a stuck piston?
#2
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You can check your "slider bolts" . They get rusty and the caliper doesn't give even pressure to both inner and outer pads. They are under the rubber boots; lubricated only with brake caliper high temp grease. There are two per caliper. Many times the upper is not removed when replacing the brake pads or disk and it corrodes. I make a point to remove these uppers just to coat grease on them.
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sick, i do them myself and i cant remember when the last time i did it though...im about to order some new rotors and pads.
the tirewear, my front driver has inner wear more than any other tire. the alignment shop has told me its because of my cross caster being off which makes my car drift right; so i have to hold the wheel to make it stay straight.
but then again i have noticed that my wheel pulls to the right more now when braking, any type of braking
the tirewear, my front driver has inner wear more than any other tire. the alignment shop has told me its because of my cross caster being off which makes my car drift right; so i have to hold the wheel to make it stay straight.
but then again i have noticed that my wheel pulls to the right more now when braking, any type of braking
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my car doesthat too i think its road variation along with ur tire wear mainly.... and if u have low profile tires the sidewall is harder cuz it doesnt flex as much when u drive over road variations.. if u had a 15" wheel with a 65 series tire it wont do it anymore i guarantee it its the price to pay for having low profile tires and kumho tires r the worst bout doing that too if u have those
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#8
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The slider bolts are held in place with the 14mm headed bolts on front, 12 mm headed bolts in the rear. Remove the bolt and with needle nose pliers if needed, pull out the slider bolt. It is what the caliper centers itself on as the brake is applied. The bolts reinstalled are torqued to 25 Ft Lb front and 22 Ft Lbs rear.
Remember to remove the "squeel" wear indicators from the inner front pads and reinstall on the new inner pads. The rear inners are preriveted with the new indicators installed... if you're using Lexus replacement pads.
The caliper mounting bolts are removed to replace the rotors. They are 17 mm headed on the front and are reinstalled torqued to 85 Ft Lbs. The rears have 14 mm headed bolts and reinstalled torqued to 55 Ft Lbs.
Remember to remove the "squeel" wear indicators from the inner front pads and reinstall on the new inner pads. The rear inners are preriveted with the new indicators installed... if you're using Lexus replacement pads.
The caliper mounting bolts are removed to replace the rotors. They are 17 mm headed on the front and are reinstalled torqued to 85 Ft Lbs. The rears have 14 mm headed bolts and reinstalled torqued to 55 Ft Lbs.
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