beaterKU

I am going to replace me brakes soon and I am looking into picking up a set of Brembo Sport Drilled Rotors. What is everyone's thoughts on these rotors? My stock rotors are warped and look as thought they can probably be turned but I am looking fro something a little better looking than the stock units as they are easily seen behind my 19's

A Picture for those who don't know what I am speaking of...



Thanks,

Nick

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

my friend .. its a excellent choice.. these are top shelf rotors made at the same foundry in italty alongside their bbk kits.. its the best metal used in their applications and they are drilled by brembo the right way so no cracking ...the goldish finish looks real expensive behind aftermarket wheels


i have had the fronts since last year summer and upgraded the rears to a ls430 caliper with supra tt 13.1 rears by brembos but i did mine in the slots instead of drilled


you wont be sorry

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

If you are doing this for looks go for it. If you are looking for performance, go get a brebo blank.

beaterKU

I am looking for both looks and some performance. I don't go out racing around in the car so at least stock performance is required. The blanks are much cheaper, so I guess I will look into doing a little research.

Thanks
Nick

chicagoblknazn

How much do those run?

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

If you want looks, and performance, and reliability, and being able to cut them, get brembo blanks, and have them cadmium plated. The area where the pads will touch will loose the cadmium, but the rest of the rotor will look Gold/Black Chrome/Silver, whichever you pick. That means no rust. Most places offer cad plating for a small fee. I have seen it for $10 per rotor.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

actually you have it backwards the brembo blanks are metals used from their mexico and other 3 world places whereas the brembo sports are made for heavy duty braking as well as look good


brembo blanks are not properly drilled nor slotted . brembo sports are carefully done to insure that none of the hole compromise the cooling vanes and the slots spin opp the wheel rotation to sweep the pad mat outward while cooling vanes run opp to draw air into the center for more eff cooling..


the brembo blanks dont do that

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

I meant blanks as in ones without holes or slots. And a much higher quality of pad, will do more than a bunch of holes and slots. That is a guarantee. I will also bet you that a car with better pads and tires will stop much shorter than a car with drilled rotors. This is a never ending debate on every board that we discuss this. In the end i cannot force feed you knowledge, you are in the internet and you can look it up. When is the last time saw a race car with drilled slotted rotors. It comes down to the fact what you are willing to blow $$$ wise and reliability wise. Drilled slotted rotors are a one time thing, once they are worn, grooved (and they all grove due to the holes) warped, you will have a fun time finding a shop to cut them, or buying a new set.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

bro no offense , but please do some more research for what you are quoting is completely wrong..


slotting is for a purpose to wipe the pads clean of excess residue and such , crossdrilling is to get rid of heat for rep heavy use both have advantages and disadvantages but the point of this thread was asking about the quality of the brembo sports which are top notch right up there with their 2 piece rotors.. the metal used and how made makes the all the diff on how the rotor will respond to heavy use


i have used powerslot slotted and they stress cracked within 4months of street driving , i have had these brembo sports since sept last year with not one single complaint and i stand on my brakes hard

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

I have drilled Brembo sport rotors on the rear of my car and I'm very pleased with the look and performance (although I realize on a Lexus and most vehicles the fronts do most of the work and I have a StopTech big brake kit there). I do agree with slickgt1 that pads do more for stopping than rotors, HOWEVER, cheap rotors will warp or crack after repeated heavy braking, so I recommend getting quality rotors, drilled or not. I got the drilled ones for the look to go with my front brakes.

I'm using Axxis (or PBR, same thing) MetalMaster pads all around now and really like them. Great bite with almost no dust and no squeak.

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

Have you stood on your brakes hard 40 - 50 times. Or hard enough to need new pads after 4 hours of use. I doubt it. I have had so much experience in this, I'll admit that I was never at number 1 in my class (hondas rocked me mostly), but i did enough to experiment with quite a few things. I even turned those rotors above purple. I had custom brake ducts made to assist in cooling. There was no benefit in these rotors. Biggest change for my stopping distance, was Pole Position SO3 tires, 1.5 inch wider rims, and Axxis Ultimate pads. At the end these cost me more $$$ for nothing. After the destruction that I put on them, I could not get them turned to get rid of the grooves.

Oh, and rotors in the rear never get really worn from braking, so having these in the back is perfectly fine. You probably will not need to ever turn the rear rotors with pad changes.

Also, I am ****, and I get my rotors turned with every pad change, so one more time these are worthless.

See it is hard to argue on this, I would rather not, believe what you want. End result is these are not worth it. In my opinion these are just rice. I will look for some articles on this. I'll post links when I find them.

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

No offense taken.

Go here for an objective opinion. Or just search the web, for "cross drilled versus regular". You will find lots of articles supporting what I just said.

http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

do some more research bro or else brembo stoptech endless rotora apracing will all go out of business


and for your info i do stand on my brakes hard , i have warped heat checked stress fatiqued stock rotors as well as inferior powerslot rotors


good rotors start with good metals period

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

Trust me, I have researched this a lot.

And I agree, a great rotor only needs great metals. Nothing else.

I am done, you can keep debating this. UNSUBSCRIBED.

Neo

iTrader: (3)

It is perfectly fine to have opinions about things but it does not necessarily apply to everyone. If you need your brakes to withstand what you described, then your priorities are different that most people. As daily drivers (or even show cars), the brakes are never stressed as in autoX or racing situations. Therefore, these people do not need to be as critical and can get the looks of the C/D rotors without sacrificing performance for the way they use their car.

I agree with you that tires and pads makes a tremendous difference in terms of braking power but let's take your choice for example.

The SO3s are great performance tires and for your use, they fit nicely. But there have been members who have reported rubber breakdown, uneven wear, and major noise (as the tire gets older). For people who do not need this level of performance, why deal with these other factors?

The Axxis Ultimates are also great street pads for stopping. They are hard, however, and they can cause more wear and tear on the rotors. Add to the fact that they dust like crazy, these pads are not for everyone.

So in the end, for your needs, maybe the C/D rotors are worthless but they are far from worthless to other people. Worth is subjective. It is not absolute. Something that is useful or have great value to one person (because of their needs) can be junk to another (who has a different set of needs).