TPA_STEVE

Is there any special bleeding procedure required when replacing OEM brake lines with SS? I will be installing slotted/drilled rotors and haven't determined what the best sequence is. should I install lines first or one at a time while replacing rotors? Is there a way to minimize air in system or will proximity to caliper make bleeding relatively easy? Any good links?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

as far as changing in seq , it does not matter ,, change lines at the same time you do rotor but make sure to soak the 10mm brake line nut in liquid wrench for the heads will round off very easy .. make sure you use the new crush washer and trq to about 20lbs


bleeding do it with engine running to activate the abs sys and start from pass side rear then driver rear pax front etc etc but make sure res does not go empty for you will suck air in and it wont be fun


good luck and again be careful not to round off that 10mm nut

Indio

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=lexforlife]as far as changing in seq , it does not matter ,, change lines at the same time you do rotor but make sure to soak the 10mm brake line nut in liquid wrench for the heads will round off very easy .. make sure you use the new crush washer and trq to about 20lbs


Ed, I believe the correct torque for this is 24 ftlbs, anything less and the nut will work itself loose.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

[QUOTE=Indio]thnaks eric for the correction but i did say about

TPA_STEVE

Thanks for the excellent feedback. I'll be sure to follow this advice

DetMich1

TPA, what year is your GS? Your profile says 1999 but gives model as GS430, this is inconsistent as 430 was not introduced till 2001. The reason I ask, when bleeding brake system on the GS400's (not sure about GS430) you need to use a computer analyzer to over-ride the ABS system. Otherwise the on-board computer diverts braking pressure away from the wheel with the open bleed valve and no brake fluid (or air) will be expressed. Otherwise the sequence is correct, when bleeding brakes, traditionally start with the caliper the furthest from the master cylinder and proceed in order to the one closest to it. (RR, LR, RF, LF)

TPA_STEVE

Thanks for the "heads-up" on profile. It is really a 400. As for bleeding, it seems that only dealerships would have a computer analyzer to override the on-board computer. How come no one else has mentioned this?? I have bled brakes on other vehicles without this complication. Does that mean you cannot bleed at all or just not properly??
If not at all, this means I must have lines installed by dealership. Otherwise I would consider installing, bleeding as best I can and having dealership bleed to ensure safety. Any comments??

DetMich1

There are hand held analyzers that sell for maybe a couple hundred dollars. So, a back-yard mechanic could buy one if he were pretty serious about working on his car, certainly any well equiped independant repair shop would have one (the one I go to does). There is an even more elaborate computer that wheels around on a cart that usually only the dealer would invest in. Even the hand held does much more than bleed brake lines, hooks up to the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) port under the dash in the driver's footwell. Useful for interrogating all the electronic systems on board.