KevinLe

iTrader: (1)

i did my front brake job yesterday and something weird happened
to take off the brake pad we need to unscrew 2 screw from each side, and those screws screw to the things got cover by a rubber cover to make it move in and out to adjust the brake pads right anytime, and the top one is look ok to me cus its moving in and out really smoothly after i took the screw out of it, BUT the bottom one cant move at all, basictly i can turn it around by using a socket but cant make it go in and out like the top one,i hardly turn the wheel by my hand after installing so i have to took the wheel off again to use the hammer to make that bottom adjuster to a lil ....out to fit with the new pad, is that possible??? (
anyone do the gs400 brake b4 please tell me is that normal or my car have a trouble with that adjuster, i affaird later on my wheel will stuck again for some how, just like i just install the pads without adjust that adjuster by....... hammer =(

Ditto

It's hard to visualize by your description. From what I recall, when I change my front brake pards, I didn't have to use a hammer. If you have to, use a rubber padded hammer. It was basically a 10 minute drill (including taking wheels off and on) the last time I changed 3 months ago. You might want to take it to a brake shop. I don't want you to have an accident because it's your first time doing the brakes.

TLW

can you take any pics

im trying to picture it but it is hard the way you are describing it

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

the gs front brake calipers are a free floating design.. the caliper itself floats and readjusts itself via those sliding bolts/pins.. it sounds to me that your pin/bolt is frozen because dirt and water making rust got inside the boot.. no worries.. get some liquid wrench and spray liberal amounts in and around the bolt area ..(use the red miny nozzle to spray inside the boot area) the bolt end fits a socket and right after that is a nut that uses a open end wrench .. use the open end wrench as leverage and turn the bolt end with socket back and forth until it frees up .. once free you MUST remove the pin/bolt and relube it with only brake grease then reinstall ...your brakes should be fine after that but by no means run your brakes the way they are now for you will overheat your rotors from the pads making constant contact creating a drag on the system

gsproject

iTrader: (1)

Are those caliper sliding pins bolts suppose to be torqued hard.
When I did my brake job...I just screwed them in good. But a couple weeks later I was bleeding my brakes and decided to really re-torque them down hard.

Now I have a vibration on my Passenger side front...like the caliper is sticking.