CinFulxgs

Yes, I have searched.
Yes, I have read.

Questions....

1. Any Tips / Tricks to making the install as quick and painless as possible.
2. Is it necessary to use a spring compressor for removal of the factory Spring/Shock removal?
3. Is it necessary to use a spring compressor for the installation?
4. Does anyone know or know where to find the Torque setting for bolts that must be removed during the process?

Thanks In Advance guys.

Lexus wanted 650.00+ to do the install.
I am having an experienced friend help with mine at the Base Auto Hobby Shop and paying him $200.00 bucks with $4 an hour to rent the lift and tools.

CinFulxgs

No one can help here?

I thought there we so many DIY'ers around these parts?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

wow bro take it easy

to answer your question yes to all of your questions... you must use a spring compressor and if you have never done so before be very careful , if it is not postioned in the clamps right and lets loose under load , may god be with you...


the strut tower bolts aprrox 46ft lbs , the piston rod nut approx 38 ft lbs..

when doing the fronts make sure you disconnect the abs sensor bracket from the shock body and the body of the car or else you will strain the wire setting off codes...

for the fronts disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle by tapping on the squared part of it with a mini sledge. the joint will pop out... the rest for the front is straightforward... for the rears again disconnect the upper ball joint the same way then the lower arm the runs diagonal towards the front , then the sway bar from the links side and if you have hid lights the mounting bracket as well then you can push the lower control arm downward to allow space to manuver the assembly out form the car


hope some of this helps

CinFulxgs

Thanks Lex... Sorry so antsy but having 500+ bucks of parts sitting in my office that can eaisly put a on my face is driving my nuts...

Question: I don't understand how HID lights would have a mounting bracket in the rear of the car?

AWESOME HELP...

We are hopefully going to get this done Saturday, will take pictures and let everyone know how it goes and write a review on the change in performance.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

the bracket in the rear is for the load leveling sensor that readjust the hid lights in front depending how much load (squat) the rear end has

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

An alternative method to disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle is to rent a ball joint puller kit for a refundable $105 from Schuck's (or pretty much any major automotive parts place). The kit rents out for $105 (mostly a deposit fee), when you return the rental, you get a refund of $100--it's basically a $5 rental fee. In the kit, there is a certain puller that you will need--it looks like a U-clamp with a center screw. You mount it on the steering knuckle, tighten up the central screw until it pushes/loosen's the ball joint's bolt out from the steering knuckle--it's much safer and easier than with a hammer. That's about the only hard part to the front.

As for the springs, you will NEED to either rent an external-type spring compressor or just pay a garage to compress and change the springs out for you. A local garage here in Seattle will charge you $50 to change the springs/shocks for you, if you have the shock/spring assemblies out of the car. Anyways, if you look around, you'll find that some shops will charge you about $200 to do a complete front and rear shocks/springs change, so if time is not on your side, you might want to look into that. Also, do NOT use the type of spring compressors that clamp at the springs directly, they are inadequate for this job as the GS springs are very, very highly sprung. In short, you will NEED an external type of spring compressor--the large ones that compress from the shock end plates to replace the springs without damaging them.

If you need more info, just shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll send you some Lexus service PDFs on doing the springs/shocks install. Information is power. . .

Good luck.

CinFulxgs

Thanks Sea,

I am currently ordering the CD's for the car with the PDF's for $20.00 off of E-Bay. The guy already sent me a sample page of the beginning of the Shock/Spring install and looks like exactly what I need. However, I am not sure if the CD's will get here by this Sat. so If you could send the relevant pages that would be awesome! Can you PM them or do you need me to PM my actual E-Mail address?

Actually, after calling around many shops the best price I could find was 275.00 and that is only because the owner is a friend of a friend.... Keep in mind that is without an alignment also.

We plan on doing the swap here at Macdill Air Force base at the auto hobby shop and we plan on using the tools they provide. I know they have a spring compressor but I did not ask about the joint tool. Hopefully they have this too.

I really appreciate all the help guys, hopefully we can get this done in 1 day and don't run into too many stubborn bolts along the way like what happened when I DIYed my exhaust.

Any tips on what to do If some of the bolts underneath don't want to come off? Any that are hard to reach?

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

For stubborn bolts and nuts, get some "PB penenetrating spray"--the can design looks like it's from the 70's but it sure works great (about the best available). Also, to multiply your torque when trying to get off stubborn bolts, get a 2 to 2.5 foot length of hard white plastic piping that fits over your rachet at a hardware store--it will act as a torque multiplier and make your life (and back) better.

Good luck!

CinFulxgs

Thanks.

I already have that stuff but it didn't help much last time unfortunately... but thanks for the PVC tip.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

does the shop you are using have air tools for the impact gun will do it everytime if not try and find a electric impact gun will work just as well and will also save from the back ache and curses


i invested into a heavy duty light comm duty air compressor with professional airtools for my garage at home , makes fooling around with the cars more fun and less taxing

CinFulxgs

Yeah, shop has all the goodies.

Question:

Do I need to cut the factory bumb stops at all for the L-Tuned setup since it sounds like a bad idea to use the new ones provided.

I think I read somewhere that the factory stops need to be cut in half.

Thanks again

CinFulxgs

Also, just how much of my trunk am I going to have to pull out? Any shortcuts here?

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the pics of the trunk, all that you need to remove is the parts that go around the vertical wheel wells (only the rear part, the cover to the rear of the seats is not necessary--I believe the exact part is called "Side luggage compartment trim cover").

lexusondubs

iTrader: (9)

cinful shoot me a pm if you need some help i can help out your in tampa right ????

CinFulxgs

I think I can handle just taking off the sides. SWEET... and thanks again for the .pdf's. I am ordering my CD's today.