Kendhal

I will receive my Daizen springs this Wednesday and will take on the job myself instead of paying the $500 that the shops around here want to install them. Are there any surprises that I may encounter that I need to know about before I start or is it straight forward?
Advance thanks.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

first off congrats on a great choice of springs daizan makes outstanding products, also congrats on tackling the mod yourself for their is nothing sweeter to see the finished result and say to yourself , "yeah i did it" , i do everything from mechanical to body modding myself in my garage at home , wife thinks i have issues but thats her problem


when doing the fronts , very easy , disconnect sway bar end links , disconnect upper control arm joint by using a mini sledge hammer and knock on the square part of the joint sides , it will pop out , then of course loosen the top remove nuts and remove lower mounting bolt and the fronts are out (MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE ABS SENSOR FROM THE SHOCK BODY AND THE INNER FENDER WELL, THE WIRE CONNECTION IS VERY SENSITIVE AND WILL PULL AND ONCE THAT PULLS YOU WILL HAVE TO GET A NEW ONE AND HAVE THE DEALER RESET THE COMPUTER UNLESS YOU LIKE DRIVING WITH ALL THE LIGHTS ON YOUR DASH ON )


the rears are more tricky , you DONT have to disconnect all the joints at the rear like some do

disconnect from the link end the sway bars for the rear (much easier to do the tops the bottoms) disconnect the upper control arm right above the hub by using the sledge and knocking on the square part like the fronts , make sure knock left side and right side , dont bang one direction only , the joint will pop as well , disconnect the lower arm from the axle carrier then on drivers side if you have hid lights disconnect the load level senor , its the same long bolt that goes through the sway bar link at the bottom, pull the bolt out remove the sensor (make a not of its position) and put the bolt back in to prevent the end link from moving within the control arm housing.. heres where i find having a second person helps , once all that is removed one person can sort of step on the hub pushing down and the other under the car can manuver the shock assembly out once of course the upper bolts were removed , but having that second person step down on the hub gives you lots of room i find so you dont have to fight and curse at it


i have bought a big compressor for my home a couple months ago for using air tools makes everything sooooo easy so when i did my bilstein swap out and using the proper spring clamp (make sure if you are compressing yourself to get the best most secure clamp made , those springs will take your head arm or fingers off if it lets loose) my compressor and air impact gun was able to do the job with ease but prior to that i used to just remove the assemblies goto a midas or the like pay them like $60 and they would compresss it for me but MAKE SURE YOU WATCH OR IF YOU ARE DOING IT YOURSELF MKAE SURE THAT WHEN YOU ARE PUTTING THE ASSEMBLY BACK TOGETHER ONE OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE STRUT TOWER MUST LINE UP WITH THE MIDDLE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE MOUNTING POSITION OF THE SHOCK OR YOU WONT BE ABLE TO PUT THE BOLT BACK IN AT THE BOTTOM


hope some of this helps , good luck and have fun

Kendhal

Geeeeezzzus man. A huge thanks to you for sharing all that info.

I too have my own garage(at home) and do all my own mods to my '88 Mustang to include building motors, transmission, building turbo kits, you name it and found myself saying "hey, if I can do all of those other bigger things, then a simple spring change shouldn't be too hard to do on my own".

Thanks again and I'll post a pic of the car when the rims/springs are all installed.