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So I'm tired of my conservative look and now want something more beefy, I did my front fenders but now I don't have any idea on how to do my rear. I've seen build threads but it doesn't get into details. I'm doing everything at home. The rear has double panels and I don't want to do door work. So if you did custom fenders or pulled your rear fenders then any Detailed advice on how you accomplished it would help. I need to go out minimum of 2.5" in the rear. Here is a picture of my fronts.
Last edited by Tuanville; 04-05-18 at 02:53 PM.
Reason: To add (UPDATE) on title
Well first off, obviously cut the little 1" lip thats in the rear, then on the panel side of the wheel well, you would make incisions like 2 inches apart from front of the well to the rear. The incision length would depend on how much pull you want. After all the incisions you pull each "tab" out then start with the same body work as you have done here in the front. Details orientation all depends on how much work you want to put into it. Most people will tack weld the pulled tabs together, then begin with lots of body filler. Or you can do it more rigidly and fill in all the gaps with weld or more metal paneling, grind it clean and use body filler as needed to smooth things out.
Problem is for 2.5" your gonna have to be into the door to carry it around..
That front looks pretty good! Surprised you didn't radius after going that far with it?
I've seen this picture here and sorta want my rear fenders to look like his. It seems like he didn't have to touch the door. Maybe I can achieve this look through mr jokster advice.
Well first off, obviously cut the little 1" lip thats in the rear, then on the panel side of the wheel well, you would make incisions like 2 inches apart from front of the well to the rear. The incision length would depend on how much pull you want. After all the incisions you pull each "tab" out then start with the same body work as you have done here in the front. Details orientation all depends on how much work you want to put into it. Most people will tack weld the pulled tabs together, then begin with lots of body filler. Or you can do it more rigidly and fill in all the gaps with weld or more metal paneling, grind it clean and use body filler as needed to smooth things out.
thanks. I will probably use this method. The hard part will probably be making it round and even. I plan on grinding the welds even and caressing any uneven surface so I can use the minimum bondo.
I've seen this picture here and sorta want my rear fenders to look like his. It seems like he didn't have to touch the door. Maybe I can achieve this look through mr jokster advice.
That's an interesting take on it, have you found any other angles of that car, I would love to see..
If you do a large flare without going into the door it's always going to look half-assed or at least a little bit off, no matter the quality of the bodywork. Not only does the door interrupt the radius of the wheel arch, as you can see from the photo above, the factory bodyline starts in the door.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
Sup man, ive been off this site for over a year but just decided to log on today. Juat so happened to be the first interesting topic....... From my personal experience it all depends on the look you are trying to achieve. i.e hellapull/with tuck, hellapull/flush, radius/tuck, high radius/flush. And depends if you want any camber or not. EVERYTHING comes into play. I did a 2" hellapull that required cutting and modifying the inner panel and reshaping the lip, but I didn't need to do any door or jamb work. Someone rear ended me shortly after, then I got into the radius game on my build. Anyway, if you are trying to keep natural body lines on the quarter, kiss that goodbye. Not gonna happen. If you cut the inner panel up to where you want to start pulling, it makes the pull alot easier. Also, how ever high you cut the inner panel, you can then tack weld it to the inside of the outer skin. (Similar to tubing) This will allow you to run wider wheels and also air down more comfortable if you are on air. If you have IG check out my IG its @Richardson_hi I also did alot of suspension work on @jdmc23 car as well. I hope I had some insight for you. If you have any questions it'll probably be easier to get me on IG than here. Good luck.
Sup man, ive been off this site for over a year but just decided to log on today. Juat so happened to be the first interesting topic....... From my personal experience it all depends on the look you are trying to achieve. i.e hellapull/with tuck, hellapull/flush, radius/tuck,EVERYTHING comes into play. I did a 2" hellapull that required cutting and modifying the inner panel and reshaping the lip, but I didn't need to do any door or jamb work. Someone rear ended me shortly after, then I got into the radius game on my build. Anyway, if you are trying to keep natural body lines on the quarter, kiss that goodbye. Not gonna happen. If you cut the inner panel up to where you want to start pulling, it makes the pull alot easier. Also, how ever high you cut the inner panel, you can then tack weld it to the inside of the outer skin. (Similar to tubing) This will allow you to run wider wheels and also air down more comfortable if you are on air. If you have IG check out my IG its @Richardson_hi I also did alot of suspension work on @jdmc23 car as well. I hope I had some insight for you. If you have any questions it'll probably be easier to get me on IG than here. Good luck.
hey! That's a pretty nice gs you got there. My radius game is too weak right now. Everything is being done by myself and a few help from some friends in my garage. I tucked and flushed my front wheel and the rear is already tucked so I'm just hoping to pull it out and reshape it. Hopefully the pull will raise the rear up a bit to match the front cause right now it's too tucked.. I also don't want to run crazy camber I would like to keep it between 0 to -1 at ride height. I'm on air with 5 ride preset. Thanks for the advice, the info really helped. I'm going to start by pulling it as much as I can to see if I can get away with a pull. And if not then I'll probably start making incisions like jokster said. I'm going to tackle this on Wednesday and keep an update to how I did my rear.
If you do a large flare without going into the door it's always going to look half-assed or at least a little bit off, no matter the quality of the bodywork. Not only does the door interrupt the radius of the wheel arch, as you can see from the photo above, the factory bodyline starts in the door.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
hmmm just googled it he has a cool video of the car on YouTube also. I do notice that the body line starts at the door when I was observing my rears. I might do a little small work to the door and delete that body line, then blend it in with the fenders. But I do not want to add flare to the rear bumper and the side molding. I have sort or a deadline to finish this. I think I have 2 more months. I'm going to be painting this myself also. White in the shade and a hint of baby blue when it's in the sun.
Did you ever think about doing a radius on factory body?. Meaning radius the rear quarters but do not pull them out or add flares at all. It looks very clean.
Did you ever think about doing a radius on factory body?. Meaning radius the rear quarters but do not pull them out or add flares at all. It looks very clean.
its hard for me to imagine what this would do. I don't know too much about radius. I need to fit some 19x11.5 -12 in the rear. I don't think I can get by without a flare or pull. I also want the most contact as possible also. So adding ridiculous camber is a big no no. Do you have any pictures or a better example? I been too busy with work and haven't worked on my rear yet. I'm still seeking options. Thanks for your input.
As you can tell by the time between posts and the amount of work remaining, it is not a short process unless you know what you are doing and have the time AND the money to dedicate to it. Even then, short is probably the wrong term. "Less long" would be more accurate.
03-18-17, 03:54 PM
Rear fender hella pull help!(UPDATED)
