Chop123

Gang-I want to add an aftermarket subwoofer box (amp and sub in one unit) to my SC430. Something like the JBL BassPro units. I have repaired the cone on the factory sub and don't want to replace/remove this. I wanted to run a Line Output Converter on the factory sub speaker leads and use the RCA connection to the aftermarket JBL. It seems like the SC430 head unit is a strange animal. If I am reading correctly, the factory sub is 16 ohm? If so, can I still use a standard Line Output Converter off of the speaker leads to a JBL amp/subwoofer unit?
Thanks-

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

I've done quite a bit on my system and documented the results of using/replacing the OEM 16-ohm sub with a box and LOC. I even created a custom box for OEM location using a Dual Voice Coil aftermarket subwoofer, and then trunk mounted custom box. You can also search for my other posts by combining search words "sc430, JL Audio, Rockford, subwoofer, custom, box"

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...o-upgrade.html

and https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...sw-amp-or.html (esp post 5)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...er-change.html

Chop123

ShawnOk: I believe this is your post below:

"As for the wiring. I ran the 12volt power from the battery through the engine firewall and into the cab at the passenger footwell and down the scuff plate to the back seat and through a grommet hole in the rear seat firewall, then into the trunk along the wall to the passenger side "cubby" space. There, I connected the ground wire to a body structure under the "cubby," and then connected and bolted down the capacitor in the "cubby," and then the amp over it, as you can see. I piggybacked a line out converter (PAC LOC Pro7) from the OEM subwoofer behind the rear seat and ran the leads to the amp. I then connected the outputs to the subwoofer by running the wire under the trunk wall under the latching mechanism. So basically I'm running two subwoofers (the OEM and the new trunk sub). Super clean bass. I'm so happy with the results but once I put in the new JL Speakers, I'm sure it will sound just as amazing! "

It would appear that you are saying you kept everything stock here. You just connected a LOC onto stock subwoofer while keeping it in place and it sounded great. Do I have that correct?
Thanks-Chop123

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Not exactly. The only remaining Mark Levinson speakers are the small tweeter and the middle speakers. Everything else is after market or replacement. In regards to the subwoofer, as I explained, I added a custom box to the OEM subwoofer location. Changed it to a 16 ohm dual voice coil (8 ohm per coil) and then added the LOC to it. Took the wire from the LOC and ran it back to the amp mounted in the trunk. Then added a custom made "trunk corner" box with a JL Audio W7.

Originally, the plan was to replace the OEM subwoofer with the JL Audio W7 behind the seat in a custom square box that fits directly behind the rear seat. That would involve removing the OEM sub completely, run the LOC off the subwoofer wire, to the amp, and then wire back to the JL Audio W7 mounted in the OEM spot behind the seat with the custom square box. I found that when I removed the 16ohm subwoofer, all my other speakers lost power. (Others say they didn't have this experience but I def did) Therefore, I had to put the 16ohm subwoofer back and change my gameplan (ie. adding the custom corner trunk box with JL Audio W7).

Chop123

I think out installations are too different for me to understand if this will work.

I am keeping everything 100% stock. I just want to know if I can hang a Line Output Converter on the factory Sub wiring (while keeping factory sub in place) and attach a powered subwoofer. I know the factory head unit is weird as it relates to ohms. Anyone else try this?

Thanks-

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Yes, your plan will work without any damage to the Mark Levinson system. Just curious though, where would you put the powered amp and sub?

Chop123

Good Question-I would be curious if anyone has a success story with a powered subwoofer in an SC430 trunk. I have been looking at the Rockford Fosgate 10" and 12" units. I think the 12" might be too tight of a fit, though.

My concern is that the wall between the cabin and the trunk is a huge sheet of steel. Has anyone installed a powered sub with good success? Can you hear it clearly? I have also seen the under the seat subs that get good reviews. If I use one of them, then I don't need to worry about getting the sound through from the trunk.

Since this stream, I have also been leading toward using the speaker level input into the powered amp. It seems like the general consensus is that if an amp has speaker level inputs, it makes more sense to use them. Otherwise you are taking an amplified signal which needs to be knocked down to a line-level signal only to be amplified again. Any other commentary on this from anyone?

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

......ok Chop.......I have the Rockford Fosgate Punch 10" Dual 4ohm subwoofer & also the Rockford Fosgate Prime R500 Monoblock amp. I mounted my sub in a small probox & mounted the amp to the rear wall (closest to truck latch). It sits neatly in the sunken area where the Lexus mat is located. It doesn't interfere with the slide cover or the top retracting into it's spot. The speaker wires leading to the factory sub were cut & an inline adapter was used to connect directly to the Rockford amp, then the sub connected to the amp. I have a volume control **** for the amp, so it's adjustable at a fingertip, if needed. The bass is amazing, it's nice & crisp, plus it has no problems getting those lows. I'm running my amp at about 40% & the volume control at about 30% and have no issues with hearing it...lol....now to answer your question about space where the factory sub is located.....some 10inch woofers will work, depending on the magnet size, a 12 will work with some modifications. I had been considering stepping up to a 12in sub & cutting the wall where the factory sub was mounted, to make everything work and look factory, but my setup has worked/sounded so good, I just left it alone.

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...took a couple of quick pics to show my setup & location

Chop123

Thanks for the response. It is good to know that a sub all the way back in an SC430's trunk can be heard. There is a lot of metal (roof and rear passenger firewall) between sub and driver's ear.

I am looking to use a powered sub in that I want to pull it out of my SC and put in my RS in the fall. I am looking at the Rockford Fosgate 10" and 12" (P300-10 and P300-12) units. Anyone try these in an SC?

It also sounds like you used a LOC. I am leaving the factory sub in place and am just soldering speaker wire to the existing sub wires. The RF amps have a speaker level input connection. From my reading, speaker level is cleaner than using an LOC but am open to all input. (I am keeping factory head unit so line level input is not possible.)
Thanks-Chpo123

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

....since you're trying to use a unit that you can move from one vehicle to another, make sure that which ever you use, you'll be able to close the slide cover & operate the roof also. I learned this by actually first purchasing a different size probox that fit in the same area, but it was about 2 inches too tall for the cover to engage properly. I hadn't done alot of research as to which type of input was the best, but it was just easier for me to go the route that I did & I'm also using the factory head unit.....good luck with the install

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Hey Gang, so I upgraded the stereo to a 2007 OEM Mark Levinson. I did this to increase the compatibility to use the Grom Audio components. One change did occur, in regards to my trunk mounted amp. The remote wire is currently wired to the radio telescoping antenna. The new radio uses a different protocol and therefore disconnects power to the radio when in Aux (with the current VaisTech SL3U), or when in CD mode. Therefore, there is no power to the remote wire that is piggy backed off the antenna wire. Does anyone have a recommendation for another remote wire that is not constantly powered (to avoid battery drain), and only activates only when the car is in ACC or ON? I would prefer a location that is trunk accessible (ie. trunk fuse box) rather than running new wire from the headunit/front of car/engine bay all the way back to the trunk. Hope to hear recommendations soon, as I have the trunk torn apart. Thanks.

Harold57

What about the NAV unit power?

Did you have to make any mods to make the change from an '02 radio to the '07 radio for it to work?

jzdulexus

Nav unit power should work because its acc power, meaning only on when the key is in. But Nav unit plug is hard to get to. Its power line is even harder to tap out. A better option is to tap the power on the Nav amp unit, the small slim box that sits on top of the Nav unit (I have the 07 SC). The color of the wire as I recall was red and white striped and its located on the side of the nav amp unit. You can unplug that one really easy. Just measure the voltages in the plug when you have car off/on to be sure.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

The 2007 radio went in without any problem. Simple plug and play. All connections are exactly the same. I did this upgrade so I can possibly think about upgrading my AUX setup from Vaistech SL3U to Grom or other newer integration units that retain steering controls for Bluetooth and iPod control. This will allow me to keep a more factory look. Good news is, that the same SL3U unit works with this 2007 so haven't lost AUX while I save up for components. Also, I used another lead from the antenna harness for the app remote wire. This time i checked it to make sure it only powers with the ignition. It was red with black stripe, if I recall correctly. Thanks for all the help in the meantime.