OEM2JZ

I wanted to remove the OEM sub in the back. I was thinking about using this AMP- 1100 W MAX Power, 1 Channel 825 W X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm 413 W X 1 RMS @ 4 ohm, Monoblock, Class A/B, MOSFET Power Supply. with two 12 inch MTX subs. do you think this amp would do wonders for these two subs. Wanted to know if there were anything extra I would need other then the standard car audio components. Please chime in if you still have factory deck with aftermarket sub want to make sure I can get these up and running with out having to order any other part online.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

You'll probably get better feedback in the audio forum, but as a former shop owner and installer... i can give SOME word

What brand is that amp? I copy and pasted that whole sentence and I got LOTS of cheap flea market brands popping up with the exact wording. So without even knowing the name I can already say its not going to do anything.

Also, what model subs are they? If they're entry level subs, then that amp would probably do the job, however if you're going to go cheap, I'd recommend a class D amp over an A/B 'cause cheap amps are less efficient as it is already, no need to make it even less efficient going with A/B.

firelizard

iTrader: (1)

You're going to want a line output converter to direct the OE audio signal to your new amplifier. Plenty of options out there, I went with the Cache CLOC+D which is no longer in production.

OEM2JZ

My amp has that setting I believe

OEM2JZ

Thanks for the heads up!