New to CL. Need help with window problem.
#1
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New to CL. Need help with window problem.
Hi All,
I've been browsing this site for months, having just bought an LX470 recently and a LS430 last week. In my first post I'm asking for help with the LS.
I've searched and haven't found the right info. My two passenger side windows will not work via their switches. They will work using the master driver's switches. The passenger side switches do not light up like the driver and rear driver side switches.
I've taken the switches apart to clean and no change. Should be I looking at the Master switch for the culprit? What suggestions do you guys have?
TIA,
Rob
I've been browsing this site for months, having just bought an LX470 recently and a LS430 last week. In my first post I'm asking for help with the LS.
I've searched and haven't found the right info. My two passenger side windows will not work via their switches. They will work using the master driver's switches. The passenger side switches do not light up like the driver and rear driver side switches.
I've taken the switches apart to clean and no change. Should be I looking at the Master switch for the culprit? What suggestions do you guys have?
TIA,
Rob
#2
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Sounds like a power issue. I'd start by checking the fuse for the passenger-side window switches. Does the courtesy light on the lower inside of the door light up?
CL member rkw may have a JB (junction block) diagram. There's a JB in the passenger-side foot well behind the kick panel.
CL member rkw may have a JB (junction block) diagram. There's a JB in the passenger-side foot well behind the kick panel.
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Thanks for the quick reply Tom57. I agree it's some sort of power problem. I was wondering if power was getting to the motor via driver switch but not to the passenger switches. I've checked fuses but will go over them again. There's a lot of them and I'm not sure exactly which ones are it. The power door lock switches work. I'll dig for the junction diagram. Thanks again!
#4
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Yes, I agree that power may not be at the door switches themselves - you could test with a voltmeter. Since both passenger side windows don't operate off their assigned switches, I don't believe that it's the door ECU's. The good news is that it's not the window regulators/motors.
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Thanks for the replies guys. This is what I've found so far.
I've narrowed it down to both passenger side switches. I was surprised to find that the rear driver side switch is the same as the other two. I tried that switch on both passenger side windows and it works. In taking the switches apart and comparing them I'm finding a break in continuity on the circuit boards where there should not be. I don't have my solder gun with me today but will give the repair a shot soon. Meanwhile, the working switch is now being moved to the front.
Thanks again.
I've narrowed it down to both passenger side switches. I was surprised to find that the rear driver side switch is the same as the other two. I tried that switch on both passenger side windows and it works. In taking the switches apart and comparing them I'm finding a break in continuity on the circuit boards where there should not be. I don't have my solder gun with me today but will give the repair a shot soon. Meanwhile, the working switch is now being moved to the front.
Thanks again.
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#9
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It's somewhat unusual that you have a door switch control board issue (if that's the pic), but very unusual that you'd have two (2) door switch board issues simultaneously. There's a lot of corrosion all over that board. Maybe something spilled on the door arm rest where the switch is located??
Last edited by Tom57; 12-01-16 at 11:01 AM.
#10
The layout of that board is unusual. There are more than a few places where the circuit traces simply stop, for instance, where one of the holes is. I'd be leery of soldering over an perceived break in the circuit until you confirm it with a working board...
#11
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The lower half of the board (in the pic) is noticeably more corroded than the upper half - which prompted the suggestion that something may have spilled on it. The upper half looks clean - the copper traces are shiny.
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I will assume that something was spilled on it. I did confirm on a working board that there should be continuity there. Will have it soldered together tonight and report back. Hoping that it's successful and others can look to this thread for help. I searched for a couple days and did not find a thread with my same issue.
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I will say that I'm surprised how quickly I've received responses on this thread. I assumed that there would be very little activity here, especially being a forum for the LS430. I appreciate you guys.
#14
I worked for a medical device manufacturer for over 26 years and we had our own board shop. That white residue is the remainder of the no clean flux used during the solder operation. You'll see it a lot especially in this vintage of circuit board as the industry was moving to this process in the early 2000's. The copper contacts you see are actually gold plated which won't oxidize and provide a superior contact surface...
#15
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I worked for a medical device manufacturer for over 26 years and we had our own board shop. That white residue is the remainder of the no clean flux used during the solder operation. You'll see it a lot especially in this vintage of circuit board as the industry was moving to this process in the early 2000's. The copper contacts you see are actually gold plated which won't oxidize and provide a superior contact surface...