Clutchless

Here are the part numbers for the metal line and gaskets:
-Metal Oil Cooler Hose (P/N: 15767-31020)
-Oil Cooler Hose Gasket (P/N: 15785-31010)
-Other Oil Cooler Hose Gasket (P/N: 11496-31010)

I got mine on eBay for about $75 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...31020&_sacat=0

See this http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...ooler-tsb.html

Same engine and parts as the RX.

This sticky thread explains how to do it yourself. However you do not need to remove all the stuff he did, read farther down and shortcuts are explained http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...ng-points.html

mjdgarage

2011 RX 350 ..a hole blew in oil cooler hose on way home from work emptying all 6 quarts of oil from engine, damaging engine, my driveway !!..I received no recall notice..we did receive a warranty extension clearly stating to take no action unless oil leak appears. Internet research showed this to be a common problem. Lexus used a section of rubber on mostly metal oil cooler lines that deal with 80psi and extreme heat for apparantly no reason other than a planned failure to create business. imo..if you own a Lexus i would google this subject and look under your car to see what you have. (replacement is all metal).This is totally Dangerous (wife drove kids to long island day before) and my opinion of Lexus will NEVER be the same..

Clutchless

They had a recall in Canada ( much lower sales volume) but the US only got the extended warranty. I hope they cover your new engine.
You are correct, if the hose blows while driving your engine will be destroyed because all the oil will be pumped out before you can shut down the engine. I bought the metal part but have yet to install it. Have been watching my rubber hose and so far it looks fine, but I will do it before winter. It is easy to check, just lay on your back and slide under the front bumper with a flashlight. The rubber oil cooler hose is next to the oil filter. It is actually 2 hoses next to each other that are not very long. You can see a photo of them in the first toyotanation link above.

bandaman

Oil cooler line on our 2010 rx450h ruptured last week covering the entire bottom of the car with oil and plenty of slimy residue up the back of the car. It dropped over 4 qts before I figured it out and had it towed. $456 later my local mechanic had us back up and running and, as far as I know, no damage to the engine. I have opened a case with Lexus and have been told they will reimburse me, but I'm not sure yet. I don't live near a Lexus dealer and don't have service done there. I was not aware of a potential issue or a TSB to replace the part. Our car has 105,000 miles on it. Wish I could have proactively replaced this part and feel damn lucky I'm not waiting for the engine to be rebuilt or replaced.

Clutchless

This explains the Lexus extended coverage in plain language. http://carspecmn.com/toyota-sienna-h...oler-leakseep/

It also has a great photo of a leaking hose. I replaced mine weekend before last and it was a PITA getting at some of those studs to remove them. However, following the Toyota Nation instructions and shortcut, especially the Torx T8 female socket to remove the studs and ample use of U joint socket connections and a flex socket extension made all the difference. I did not drain the oil. After removing the old one, I let it drip from the block side for an hour while I had lunch.

F250

I have searched and cannot find a convenient PDF for this DIY job, so unless someone can point me to an existing one, I am compiling all the pertinent information and pictures for easy download in prep of doing this job this coming week before our road trip, and I'll post it back up here for others as well. I've learned that I work better with some type of write-up like this by researching ti thoroughly and compiling only the important information and pictures into something I can print out and have sitting beside me while I work. I have all the PDF editing tools and create similar documents on a regular basis as a part of my job.

kitlz

Pete, appreciate the offer but we don't allow the posting of copyrighted materials like service manuals on CL. It's in the rules. TIS is available by subscription.

Clutchless

I read the Toyota Nation thread linked above a couple times and bought the female T8 Torx socket which is essential to do this job. I had all the other tools. I did not remove the unrelated parts he removed to gain access. Using the female Torx socket to remove the studs eliminates all that extra work. You just need to be a bit of a contortionist. Look at posts 30, 32 and 36 on the Toyota Nation thread for some tips from a member who is a retired mechanic.

A couple things I learned:

In the RX there is only one easy to remove plastic shroud under the front of the engine. It has 4 of those plastic pins and 6 - 10 mm bolts. Once off you have full access to the hose.

Unhooking the Oxygen sensor wire connection and removing the bracket were easy, there is a loop the right side (as you are facing the car) wire runs through, then I pushed it out of the way.

The killer bolt/stud is the far right lower one on the right side connection. It is a very tight fit and I stared at it a while and made a few attempts before being able to successfully get a socket on it that I could turn.
I ended up removing 3 of the 4 studs. On each connection there is a stud with a nut on each end and a bolt in the middle. All are 12mm and not very tight. I think it was supposed to be 15 foot pounds. I used a variety of short and deep sockets, and a universal joint right behind it for the couple of hard to reach studs. Plus a bunch of long extensions, some of which were the flex type and wobble type. Keep an oil drain pan handy for when you remove the hose! Not much oil comes out, but enough to make a little mess. Also there is oil in the hose! There was also gasket material stuck to the motor that I had to razor blade off.
It was almost as tricky getting the new one back in place and that is when I removed the third stud which was on the left side.

Unless you have a lift, it was a strain on my neck laying on the garage floor (on a moving blanket) and tilting my head to get the best view and access. That is part of the reason I did not mind the lunch break while the oil drained out of the far right hole. It was just a trickle and even if you drained your oil, I bet it would still trickle out the same way as it was above the oil pan.

F250

I understand, Anita, but I'm actually not referring to copyrighted material from the service manual. What I am referring to is a layman's explanation with pictures of how to perform each step and a reference list for part numbers and tools required to do the work -- a reworded synopsis of multiple posts in a forum thread. There won't be any quotes from any copyrighted Lexus/Toyota materials anywhere in it. It's the same thing I've been doing for years on other Internet Brands forum sites with no issues. Just as an example, below is a link to something similar I have posted on a Volvo website, but obviously for a different make/model and different maintenance effort altogether -- granted, it is not an IB forum, but it will give you a preview of what I''m talking about. If you don't mind, take a peak and let me know if something like it is still not allowed. I'll be compiling the document for my own personal use regardless of whether or not I can post it here..

Look at the link titled "CVVT Hub Setting Guide.pdf" in third post HERE >>>> http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=77183

kitlz

Pete, a layman's explanation without using copyrighted material is fine. By all means if you want to do it, go ahead. A few members have created them with step by step pictures. In fact I used this one to change out the puddle lamps. That was still one of the scariest things I ever did. Thanks for the clarification. BTW, your link isn't working for me.

F250

That's good to hear, Anita.

Since it has nothing to do with our vehicles in here, I'll just attach the PDF I was trying to link for you.

F250

I pulled my front splash guard last night, and it appears I do NOT have the oil cooler. I DO have other evidences of a Tow Package like the transmission cooler, hitch, and 4-prong wire connector. Look at the pics below and tell me if I'm wrong.

kitlz

Pete, I'll have to verify the notice I received last year on my '10 450h and get back to you later. I'm pretty sure it had to do with the O2 sensor like Droid mentioned in post #10. No oil cooler line replacement but I can understand if you're trying to be proactive. It does look like you have the tow package based on your second picture. That brings back memories trying to get my hand around the trans cooler to access the fog light. Awesome tutorial BTW.

F250

Thanks, Anita.

As for the oil cooler, if I actually do not have it, I will NOT be getting one from a dealer, even at the discounted myLparts price of $772 US. If I can find one used, I might just do it. Otherwise, I'll just focus on the yet unresolved wiring issue and live with having only the CVT fluid cooler. Actually towing anything with this car will be virtually nil anyway... maybe a rare vary small trailer at worst... Otherwise, that's what my F250 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel is for!!

For grins and giggles, I just did a car-part.com salvage search, and found a used unit listed for $350 from a 2010 with less than 60k miles on it. I might call them to see if I can negotiate a lower price. There are a couple more listed with "call for price". If I can get one reasonably, I might just do this after all. I also wonder if the dealer who installed the two hitch receiver tried to pull a fast one by only installing part of the system, and if so, I might call them to see if there is any recourse at this point in terms of them supplying me with the cooler at this late stage in the game -- doubt it very much, but I never assume anything and always let the other person make the choice as to how to respond to my questions and requests... sometimes they say "Yes".

kitlz

Pete, I found the two notices. The first is regarding the oil leak or seep from the engine oil cooler pipe. Attached is the PDF from Clutchless' link in post #2 that explains it all just in case you didn't look. If you can get the part for a reasonable price, it's probably not a bad idea to replace it yourself. The other is the Limited Service Campaign for the O2 sensor replacement on the 2010 RX450h. It's good until May 2018. That I would leave to a Lexus dealer to do. It involves installing a new sensor and wire bracket harness. The repair took less than an hour.