GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Going to install a whole new sound system 98 Nak

Old 04-23-15, 04:17 AM
  #76  
Foob
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Default Gotcha!

Thanks for the process too, I'll see if sem makes an adhesion promoter to match it up With everything else.

Update! 5/1/15
Going to be installing everything starting at 7am today, will post up pics of the finished product! Got some SEM Charcoal Trim paint, along with some SEM primer, gonna do the old paint thinner and wipe down technique cause the spray on are kinda are too potent to trust myself with.

Last edited by Foob; 05-02-15 at 09:39 PM.
Old 05-02-15, 09:37 PM
  #77  
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Default Overwhelmed!

Started working on the car friday, so far have gotten the doors, and trunk covered in sound dampening, and have removed a portion of the lower back seats, along with all the door panels and have removed the center consol and replaced the ignition with white led lights as well as the rear window controls. Gonna remove the upper portion of the rear seats tomorrow along with the front seats and remove the carpet. Here's my progress so far.





Big mess of all the RCA cables and new cables form the amp kit to the battery, and headunit.


None the less, having a blast taking the car apart and learning where everything is and figuring out how to hide wires, and dampening up other things.
Old 05-02-15, 10:45 PM
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FYI, run the battery/remote turn on(amp) cable on one side and the RCAs on another side. The power causes interference with the RCA and you can hear a whine.

I just did mine and ran the power on the right side from the firewall down back, and RCA on the left side.

http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com...-power-ground/

Also, are you taking out the stock sub and matting the rear deck?
Old 05-03-15, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for the info, taking out the stock sub and havent purchased the subs yet, but if i think i need to i will be placing 2 12s in an enclosure in the trunk gonna leave the grill and hole from the stock sub open for now.
Old 05-03-15, 10:42 AM
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Default More Overwhelming-ness!

Seats have been removed, now to try and figure out how to run my wires under the carpet. Also painted the dash kit to match oem trim color.



after 3 coats of paint over primer and sanding,
Old 05-03-15, 12:59 PM
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Well shat, dont know why you removed the front seats, but running the wires aint gonna be an issue. Just remove the center console and run the audio wires through there. The power wires can be tucked along the edges of the door, under the door seals and carpet clips, theres a good channel to do that. As for the doors, you're gonna need to do a little more extensive work than that, especially if you're gonna go free air and not an enclosure. You have to cover all the holes, basically make one solid piece of mat on it. Look up carbongs's project pics and how he did his doors, he did a fantastic job on them.

Btw, how easy was it to remove the front seats?
Old 05-03-15, 01:20 PM
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Definitely get those doors sealed up as well as possible, you need the front and back wave of the speaker seperated from each other. I'd go the extra step and close the holes with sheet metal and then deadening.



Looks like you're making good progress!

The front seats come out easily, just 4 bolts and unplug the harness Mr. Jokster. Wouldn't have been necessary like you said, but if nothing else he can clean the carpet under them (couldn't believe how filthy mine was in the crack between the seats and center console) and have a little extra room to work.
Old 05-03-15, 01:29 PM
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It's really easy to run wires through. Run it from behind the center console, take apart the bottom dashboard (only a few clips or screws, i forgot), then pull up the plastic trim pieces straight up, and route it under there where the stock wires also are, then it goes to behind the rear seat into a hole into the trunk. I'll take some detail pics in a bit and upload them.
Old 05-03-15, 11:32 PM
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Follow the yellow line from pics 1-4. You pop up those grey plastic trim pieces straight up. From the trunk, you just have to remove some of the liner to see the cables. This is the left side for the RCA cables. Repeat for the power cable on the right side. There are holes on both sides behind the rear seat that leads to the trunk. You'll need to remove some liner in the trunk to reach these holes but it's super easy.

Let me know if you have any more questions or need more pics.

Going to install a whole new sound system 98 Nak-1.jpg

Going to install a whole new sound system 98 Nak-2.jpg

Going to install a whole new sound system 98 Nak-3.jpg

Going to install a whole new sound system 98 Nak-4.jpg
Old 05-04-15, 02:40 AM
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Naw I wouldnt do that. Just remove your console and the only carpet lifting you have to do is the 1 foot between the console and rear seat and run to the back. In fact, if you use a hanger, you dont even have to remove the whole console, just loosen it and pull the wires through. Less work and much more room for wires than the side. Most of all, you wont loose ~4-6ft of cable going from the deck to the driver side and from the driver side to where you end up mounting the amps. Since the power wires are gonna be on the driver side, you want the RCA's as close to that side as you can. Down the center seems the most logical place
Old 05-04-15, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Jokster
Naw I wouldnt do that. Just remove your console and the only carpet lifting you have to do is the 1 foot between the console and rear seat and run to the back. In fact, if you use a hanger, you dont even have to remove the whole console, just loosen it and pull the wires through. Less work and much more room for wires than the side. Most of all, you wont loose ~4-6ft of cable going from the deck to the driver side and from the driver side to where you end up mounting the amps. Since the power wires are gonna be on the driver side, you want the RCA's as close to that side as you can. Down the center seems the most logical place
I didn't even think of that, I'm going to have to reroute mine because my RCAs are really tight and I need that extra 4-6 feet. I'm glad I posted those pics, hah!
Old 05-04-15, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by magic5g
I didn't even think of that, I'm going to have to reroute mine because my RCAs are really tight and I need that extra 4-6 feet. I'm glad I posted those pics, hah!
Yup, many years with a shop, learned a long time ago. Kits only give you 17" of wire, gotta conserve as much as you can (or buy longer jacks of course)
Old 05-05-15, 08:54 AM
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Thanks for the info guys, gotta figure out how to take the center console off, right now I've got a problem where my car won't start, my uncle is gonna come over later today with a scanner to check it out. He says its the battery being dead, only problem is that the alarm goes off everytime I connect the positive terminal to the battery, and the locks dont work using the key fob, and it's raining so another day stuck not being able to do anything lol. Wish I had a garage!!! Will run RCA' s through console and battery on the right side (passenger)
Old 05-05-15, 09:56 AM
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You should get a multimeter, even a cheap $5 can tell you how many volts your battery has and if it's dead. My battery also died when I was doing my audio install since I didn't start my car for a few weeks.
Old 05-05-15, 12:17 PM
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Couple hours and my uncle will be here, but I've only had the car unplugged since Friday, would it die that fast? The battery is fairly new only like 3 months old.

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