SC430 HEADER INSTALL THREAD w/PICS, DYNO
01-26-06, 12:14 AM
#1
SC430 HEADER INSTALL THREAD w/PICS, DYNO
UPDATE: This is an ongoing thread with many updates. If you are looking to perform this installation yourself read through the thread in it's entirety as there are several updates as well as pointers for an easier install.
OK, Let's get this started. I received my headers as evidenced by the pictures below. Upon inspection I already foresee some problems with the installation as seen in the pictures. The finish is not very smooth with deep grooves where the flange meets up with the engine which is opposite of the headers for my Tundra which were smooth. The flange that connects to the converter is welded on the inside and it appears that not enough room is allowed for the protrusion from the cat pipe that sits inside of the flange. Grinding this away would weaken the weld and I will probably have the flange welded on the outside first at a local shop or cut off the protrusion. This appears to be a change from earlier header designs. I did send an email with pics to S&S and await their response.
Anyhow I did make it down Tuning Technologies in Grand Terrace, CA. Nice guys and not at all like those at my old place Rage Imports in Montclair which I no longer go to. TT has a 4 wheel Dynojet machine and I will get a model shortly.
On to the dyno: I was not impressed with the numbers obtained on my dyno’s as the 3 pulls netted a best of 241.5hp and 240 tq which translates to 302hp and 300 tq which is considerably lower than what I expected with the exhaust and SRT intake/ECU. In fact the TQ is lower than the stock 325lbs. Now keep in mind that the car had a low battery due to cleaning with the radio on and the ECU reset while starting her up. The resulted in the ECU not completely resetting and I believe this may have caused the low results. I have since then unplugged it for 1 hour and it now feels stronger so I am going to dyno the car again before the header installation. Time did not allow me to reset the ECU prior to the dyno. $75.00 each dyno session gets pricey so hopefully my next run will yield expected results. If so then I will install the headers and revisit the dyno. Another possibility is that this dyno results in low numbers though they assured me that it is pretty accurate. The model they have is a 4 wheel dyno and most of their business is Evo's.
Car did sound awesome during the runs.
LINK TO DYNO VIDEO SC430, RIGHT CLICK AND SAVE
Expect this is be an on going thread with many updates so check back often.
Notice the weld on the inside? A pipe from the catalytic converter on the car is supposed to slip into there. Problem is, there is no room for the pipe now. So two options. Cut the extension in the cat and put a gasket in place, or grind the weld down and then weld the flange on the outside. UPDATE: The SC430 has a gasket here so both flanges fit nicely with no fitment issues. 400 owners may have to modify. Do a search.
Looks good from this angle.
Notice the surface here?
I will not be using the gaskets supplied as I learned my lesson with the Tundra headers so I will order up a set of OEM gaskets tomorrow.
More to come including videos..................................
Lee
OK, Let's get this started. I received my headers as evidenced by the pictures below. Upon inspection I already foresee some problems with the installation as seen in the pictures. The finish is not very smooth with deep grooves where the flange meets up with the engine which is opposite of the headers for my Tundra which were smooth. The flange that connects to the converter is welded on the inside and it appears that not enough room is allowed for the protrusion from the cat pipe that sits inside of the flange. Grinding this away would weaken the weld and I will probably have the flange welded on the outside first at a local shop or cut off the protrusion. This appears to be a change from earlier header designs. I did send an email with pics to S&S and await their response.
Anyhow I did make it down Tuning Technologies in Grand Terrace, CA. Nice guys and not at all like those at my old place Rage Imports in Montclair which I no longer go to. TT has a 4 wheel Dynojet machine and I will get a model shortly.
On to the dyno: I was not impressed with the numbers obtained on my dyno’s as the 3 pulls netted a best of 241.5hp and 240 tq which translates to 302hp and 300 tq which is considerably lower than what I expected with the exhaust and SRT intake/ECU. In fact the TQ is lower than the stock 325lbs. Now keep in mind that the car had a low battery due to cleaning with the radio on and the ECU reset while starting her up. The resulted in the ECU not completely resetting and I believe this may have caused the low results. I have since then unplugged it for 1 hour and it now feels stronger so I am going to dyno the car again before the header installation. Time did not allow me to reset the ECU prior to the dyno. $75.00 each dyno session gets pricey so hopefully my next run will yield expected results. If so then I will install the headers and revisit the dyno. Another possibility is that this dyno results in low numbers though they assured me that it is pretty accurate. The model they have is a 4 wheel dyno and most of their business is Evo's.
Car did sound awesome during the runs.
LINK TO DYNO VIDEO SC430, RIGHT CLICK AND SAVE
Expect this is be an on going thread with many updates so check back often.
Notice the weld on the inside? A pipe from the catalytic converter on the car is supposed to slip into there. Problem is, there is no room for the pipe now. So two options. Cut the extension in the cat and put a gasket in place, or grind the weld down and then weld the flange on the outside. UPDATE: The SC430 has a gasket here so both flanges fit nicely with no fitment issues. 400 owners may have to modify. Do a search.
Looks good from this angle.
Notice the surface here?
I will not be using the gaskets supplied as I learned my lesson with the Tundra headers so I will order up a set of OEM gaskets tomorrow.
More to come including videos..................................
Lee
Last edited by Pearlpower; 02-25-06 at 08:49 PM.
01-26-06, 05:56 AM
#3
hey this is a little off tpoic but how does the ecu for the srt intake look like and where does it plug in?
Also wheres the flange? and those welds def need to be cleaned up. But hey your the tester big props to you lee. Having the will to throw your wallet around not knowing what your going to get is a big risk I am glad your willing to take
But seriously thanks
Also wheres the flange? and those welds def need to be cleaned up. But hey your the tester big props to you lee. Having the will to throw your wallet around not knowing what your going to get is a big risk I am glad your willing to take
But seriously thanks
01-26-06, 06:09 AM
#4
Lexus Champion
Lee, the change to the catalyst flange junction is in fact to allow the short cat protrusion room to insert into the flange area. The inside weld is a change but will not effect strength. If there is ANY interference between the cat and the flange it will be very little. If this is the case I would grind the protrusion on the cat SLIGHTLY just for clearance. Should not be a problem. I would not grind the weld away on the inside of the flange or bother welding the outside. The cat protrusion is slightly larger than the ID of the collector tube which is 60mm. The protrusion will not fit inside that tube. The need was to recess the tube slightly in the flange.
The surface finish on the head to header flange is the same as all the other headers delivered that I know about including mine. I do not foresee a problem. I agree with you and will be using stock gaskets myself.
I agree that your baseline dynos are a little low. Did you run an A/F meter? I assume this is on lousy 91 octane California premium?
The surface finish on the head to header flange is the same as all the other headers delivered that I know about including mine. I do not foresee a problem. I agree with you and will be using stock gaskets myself.
I agree that your baseline dynos are a little low. Did you run an A/F meter? I assume this is on lousy 91 octane California premium?
Originally Posted by Pearlpower
OK, Let's get this started. I received my headers as evidenced by the pictures below. Upon inspection I already foresee some problems with the installation as seen in the pictures. The finish is not very smooth with deep grooves where the flange meets up with the engine which is opposite of the headers for my Tundra which were smooth. The flange that connects to the converter is welded on the inside and it appears that not enough room is allowed for the protrusion from the cat pipe that sits inside of the flange. Grinding this away would weaken the weld and I will probably have the flange welded on the outside first at a local shop or cut off the protrusion. This appears to be a change from earlier header designs. I did send an email with pics to S&S and await their response.
Anyhow I did make it down Tuning Technologies in Grand Terrace, CA. Nice guys and not at all like those at my old place Rage Imports in Montclair which I no longer go to. TT has a 4 wheel Dynojet machine and I will get a model shortly.
On to the dyno: I was not impressed with the numbers obtained on my dyno’s as the 3 pulls netted a best of 241.5hp and 240 tq which translates to 302hp and 300 tq which is considerably lower than what I expected with the exhaust and SRT intake/ECU. In fact the TQ is lower than the stock 325lbs. Now keep in mind that the car had a low battery due to cleaning with the radio on and the ECU reset while starting her up. The resulted in the ECU not completely resetting and I believe this may have caused the low results. I have since then unplugged it for 1 hour and it now feels stronger so I am going to dyno the car again before the header installation. Time did not allow me to reset the ECU prior to the dyno. $75.00 each dyno session gets pricey so hopefully my next run will yield expected results. If so then I will install the headers and revisit the dyno. Another possibility is that this dyno results in low numbers though they assured me that it is pretty accurate. The model they have is a 4 wheel dyno and most of their business is Evo's.
I will post a video of the first dyno shortly once I compress it down. Car did sound awesome during the runs.
Expect this is be an on going thread with many updates so check back often.
Notice the weld on the inside? A pipe from the catalytic converter on the car is supposed to slip into there. Problem is, there is no room for the pipe now. So two options. Cut the extension in the cat and put a gasket in place, or grind the weld down and then weld the flange on the outside.
Looks good from this angle.
Notice the surface here?
I will not be using the gaskets supplied as I learned my lesson with the Tundra headers so I will order up a set of OEM gaskets tomorrow.
More to come including videos..................................
Lee
Anyhow I did make it down Tuning Technologies in Grand Terrace, CA. Nice guys and not at all like those at my old place Rage Imports in Montclair which I no longer go to. TT has a 4 wheel Dynojet machine and I will get a model shortly.
On to the dyno: I was not impressed with the numbers obtained on my dyno’s as the 3 pulls netted a best of 241.5hp and 240 tq which translates to 302hp and 300 tq which is considerably lower than what I expected with the exhaust and SRT intake/ECU. In fact the TQ is lower than the stock 325lbs. Now keep in mind that the car had a low battery due to cleaning with the radio on and the ECU reset while starting her up. The resulted in the ECU not completely resetting and I believe this may have caused the low results. I have since then unplugged it for 1 hour and it now feels stronger so I am going to dyno the car again before the header installation. Time did not allow me to reset the ECU prior to the dyno. $75.00 each dyno session gets pricey so hopefully my next run will yield expected results. If so then I will install the headers and revisit the dyno. Another possibility is that this dyno results in low numbers though they assured me that it is pretty accurate. The model they have is a 4 wheel dyno and most of their business is Evo's.
I will post a video of the first dyno shortly once I compress it down. Car did sound awesome during the runs.
Expect this is be an on going thread with many updates so check back often.
Notice the weld on the inside? A pipe from the catalytic converter on the car is supposed to slip into there. Problem is, there is no room for the pipe now. So two options. Cut the extension in the cat and put a gasket in place, or grind the weld down and then weld the flange on the outside.
Looks good from this angle.
Notice the surface here?
I will not be using the gaskets supplied as I learned my lesson with the Tundra headers so I will order up a set of OEM gaskets tomorrow.
More to come including videos..................................
Lee
01-26-06, 06:14 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by tonydt1g3r
Also wheres the flange? and those welds def need to be cleaned up.
01-26-06, 09:04 AM
#6
Thanks for the input. I will have to sand and grind away a little in a few spots as it appears something was dropped or one of the headers was dropped as there is a dent on one of the surfaces which is raised on the sides. On the cat end, I will check this weekend by removing the cat and checking fitment first before going into it too far in case I need gaskets made or matched up.
On the dyno, yes with 91 but others still dynod higher with 91. A/F is from 14.8 to 13.8 through out.
I spoke with MO over at SRT as he has extensive knowledge on Dynoing these cars. He mentioned that the peak torque is around 3300rpm but my dyno guy started out at 4200rpm which explains the torque drop from what the usual 430 folks are getting with their cars.
He also stated the A/F is fine for this car. He should know.
I will redyno here shortly before installing headers.
Lee
On the dyno, yes with 91 but others still dynod higher with 91. A/F is from 14.8 to 13.8 through out.
I spoke with MO over at SRT as he has extensive knowledge on Dynoing these cars. He mentioned that the peak torque is around 3300rpm but my dyno guy started out at 4200rpm which explains the torque drop from what the usual 430 folks are getting with their cars.
He also stated the A/F is fine for this car. He should know.
I will redyno here shortly before installing headers.
Lee
Last edited by Pearlpower; 01-28-06 at 10:53 PM.
Trending Topics
01-26-06, 12:51 PM
#8
Just wondering why LEEs A/F's are so lean - so i deceided to take a test drive this night...
Well the weather in germany is not so optimal for roadtesting, because of snow and so excessive wheelspin occurred...
SC430 UZZ40 (German ECU Version)
Temp. - 5 deg. C.
Fuel: 100 Oktan Aral Ultimate
so here is the LOG File... as you can see on full throttle the A/F's go to a maximum of 10.2:1 on idle it is 14.6:1 (which is perfect).
A/F LOG FILE as PDF
regards
marcus
Well the weather in germany is not so optimal for roadtesting, because of snow and so excessive wheelspin occurred...
SC430 UZZ40 (German ECU Version)
Temp. - 5 deg. C.
Fuel: 100 Oktan Aral Ultimate
so here is the LOG File... as you can see on full throttle the A/F's go to a maximum of 10.2:1 on idle it is 14.6:1 (which is perfect).
A/F LOG FILE as PDF
regards
marcus
Last edited by powmax; 01-26-06 at 12:55 PM.
01-28-06, 11:09 PM
#11
Have an appointment next week for another baseline dyno now that the car is running better. Also picked up the OEM exhaust manifold gaskets today from Lexus. Keeping my fingers crossed as I am hoping for similar results that my Tundra received from it's headers.
Link to video of the first dyno is in the first post above. This time around I am going to have to educate him on how to dyno this car.
Lee
Link to video of the first dyno is in the first post above. This time around I am going to have to educate him on how to dyno this car.
Lee
Last edited by Pearlpower; 01-28-06 at 11:13 PM.
02-02-06, 07:30 PM
#14
Update
Well, for those interested, I got around to another dyno session a few days ago. Everything was set and ready to go. Car was running very strong as the guy in the Mustang GT can attest to ,and as soon as the car was up on the roller, ABS, VSC, BRAKE, VSC OFF lights go off! Got to love it. We pulled codes, none. We reset the ECU, nothing again, which lead me to believe that it was a Lexus DTC. We proceeded with the dyno anyhow with a reset ECU and no miles on it. Best this time around was 247hp and 256tq which equates out to 309hp and 320tq. Keep in mind that the pedal was not floored until after 5000rpm to prevent downshift so once again past the peak torque area of 3300rpm. So with $150 out of the pocket , I have my baseline and proceed with the header install next week with a new dyno to see what it actually does.
So what about the dash lights? I fashioned together my hi-tech tool (wire with leads on both ends) and stuck it into the OBD connector to retrieve the Lexus specific none ODB II codes. Code 44 (Deceleration Sensor-Yaw) and Code 32 (Front left speed sensor). I pulled the speed sensor and ohm'd it and sure enough it checked out bad. I went ahead and rebuild the unit with a new harness (retail $213). I pulled out the yaw sensor located under the seat heater switch and it tested out ok so I figured either the dyno or speed sensor set it off. Cleared the codes and reset the YAW zero point as the car is sitting level now with my lowering with coilovers vs. the butt up stock stance. I have been meaning to get around to resetting the yaw sensor since lowering so this worked out fine. Bet most people do not reset the zero point after lowering.
Next up is the header install.
Lee
.
Got to love it. We pulled codes, none. We reset the ECU, nothing again, which lead me to believe that it was a Lexus DTC. We proceeded with the dyno anyhow with a reset ECU and no miles on it. Best this time around was 247hp and 256tq which equates out to 309hp and 320tq. Keep in mind that the pedal was not floored until after 5000rpm to prevent downshift so once again past the peak torque area of 3300rpm. So with $150 out of the pocket , I have my baseline and proceed with the header install next week with a new dyno to see what it actually does. So what about the dash lights? I fashioned together my hi-tech tool (wire with leads on both ends) and stuck it into the OBD connector to retrieve the Lexus specific none ODB II codes. Code 44 (Deceleration Sensor-Yaw) and Code 32 (Front left speed sensor). I pulled the speed sensor and ohm'd it and sure enough it checked out bad. I went ahead and rebuild the unit with a new harness (retail $213). I pulled out the yaw sensor located under the seat heater switch and it tested out ok so I figured either the dyno or speed sensor set it off. Cleared the codes and reset the YAW zero point as the car is sitting level now with my lowering with coilovers vs. the butt up stock stance. I have been meaning to get around to resetting the yaw sensor since lowering so this worked out fine. Bet most people do not reset the zero point after lowering.
Next up is the header install.
Lee
.
Last edited by Pearlpower; 03-01-06 at 02:31 PM.
