Retroplay

It's obvious that my speakers, at least the lower door speakers, are due a repair.

I've watched the videos on the replacement foam kits, but wonder if it would be worth it to repair them or would I be happier if I replaced them with aftermarket speakers?

Just looking for some opinions.

Scarletti

I know the Mark Levinson setup is a bit fragile, and if/when they go wrong something needs to be done but is this a "The grass is greener on the other side" thought?

Fortunately I've not had a problem with my OEM Amp & Speakers yet, but I took note of advice someone posted on this forum a time ago. Words to the effect of "try the cheap repair of the OEM speakers, if you're still not happy you can replace them afterwards".

I know they'll be vocal supporters of various options, but to my ears I can't really tell the difference between various multi-speaker setups (our other car has a decent OEM setup too, a 525 watt Bowers & Wilkins)

Retroplay

I am definitely not an audiophile and have no intention of pouring thousands into an audio system like many hobbyists of that kind do. I am with you that I could probably not tell the difference between the OEM and aftermarket. I don't crank up my music or go with excessive bass. I am a 70's- 80's rock kinda guy.

But the speakers are definitely damaged. Lots of buzzing even at moderate volumes in the doors. What I am looking at is if I am already in there and taking the speakers out, would it just make more sense to replace them? I can repair them for about $60 for a kit and some elbow grease, but will they fail again?

So, for me, it is more of a practical thing.

Scarletti

Ah! but your opening question was along the lines of "would I be happier with repaired OEM speakers, or aftermarket options".

If, like me, you aren't an audiophile then I would say repair the OEM's. No more work (arguably less) and a damn sight cheaper!

80's Rock, rocks!

Note: By arguably less I mean the time & effort spend researching the many alternatives, getting them to fit etc. $60 vs $600 (?) is a factor too.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

My mods include replacing the doors with Rockford Fosgate PPS8-6 (6.5", 8ohm- with need adapter plate) and the rears with JL Audio C2-400x (4", 4ohm), plus running a JL Audio 1200 Amp and a JL Audio (8w3v3-4) 8" Trunk Subwoofer and Custom Box. I highly recommend this setup (at least the doors) for a huge upgrade in sound! The door JLs are the exact impedance of the OEM so there is no additional strain on the ML amp. Trust me... the door speaker upgrade will make a HUGE difference in the sound. I'm no audiophile but it's incredible!

PS. I have JL Audio 6.5" 8ohm Subwoofers for the doors (to keep the system all JL), but the magnets are huge! Too deep to fit in the stock OEM hole without cutting the carpet mesh speaker cover. I don't want to alter the interior look so haven't installed them.

Bgw70

I have heard many say, if you replace the speakers make sure you find 8ohm speakers. they can be difficult to find. I have also heard if you go with 4ohm, you are drawing more current from the OEM amp and stand a greater chance of damage.

I decided to just repair the ML speakers and I am very happy with the result. it was very inexpensive ($25pr) and easy to repair.

iolmaster

iTrader: (1)

I was in the audio business for a number of years in the 70s and have been a hobbyest since. I can tell you that the ML speakers are nothing special. Other than the 8 ohm impedance on the 6x9. That doesn't make it better, just different. The size of the voice coil and magnet are relatively small compared to many after market replacements. If you can find an after market I would have no issue doing that rather than repair. There is a lot of info on this forum detailing how to do this.

Retroplay

I'm seeing quite a few 8-ohm 6x9 speakers. Most are about 4 inches depth.

Also found this helpful thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...l-sc430-3.html

That seems to state that 3.5" is the max depth to work with.

And the OEM speaker is only 40W rated!?

Did you go with 6.5" rounds just because the selection was better?

emg2919

Do you have links for the adapter plates for the front 6"? I'm not interested in running a trunk sub and another amp, just looking for speaker upgrade/replacement that is plug and play.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

I went with the 6.5" round b'c it was the only brand name/high rated speaker that had an 8ohm impedance. My bigger fear was to use a different impedance and blow the ML amp, so my main criteria was to stay with 8ohm. I did however take a gamble with the rear speakers at 4ohm... a calculated risk but so far things have been great. Amazing sound, and no ML amp problems in over four years. Knock wood.


I ordered mine through ebay... but any Scosche 6"x9" to 6.5" adapter plate would work. You can find them on ebay in ABS plastic of even MDF board. You can also visit any local car stereo place (or even Walmart), they should have some. The car audio store can even make you some on the spot, if they have the experience.

Retroplay

lbintab

iTrader: (1)

I personally did the repair and i'm very happy with the result. I still plan on replacing my entire oem system with something else but for now this will work.

MikeSC430D

For what it is worth, I did a repair on my passenger side door speaker about two weeks ago. The rebuild kit cost me about $25.95 from Simply Speakers through Amazon. After reading through the forum DIYs and looking at two or three repair videos on YouTube I was ready. The job took me about 3 hours of actual work time, re-gluing the speaker cone took about 1/2 hour, removing the door panel about 1/2 hour and removing the speaker about 15 minutes. Once the glue dried it went together in less than an hour. Only one real problem - while trying to remove the window/lock master switch plate the plastic immediately cracked off when I inserted a #1 Blade screwdriver to release the spring catch. Actually, I cracked it twice, first one small piece and, on attempt two, a larger piece (it is all glued back together now and looks almost passable). The really bad part is that the mounting plate on the door unit cracked off also. (It was so brittle in actually fell apart in my hands). That was not replaced. The repair eliminated a nasty buzzing sound and vastly improved overall sound.

So, now there is the other door to do. I'm hesitating because of the larger and more used switch plate.

[IMG]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-img_1759_73a0ff40a6cdc5bb74210f03a38b830b21399744.jpg

In the inserted image you can see how the plate looks almost depressed into the armrest. If I proceed, and this one breaks too, I may be in for about 6 times the cost of my speaker repair kit to replace both switch plates. Any hints on how to facilitate removing the plate without harming it?

Harold57

It seems like when I removed mine, it popped right out but I'll have to go back and re-read my instructions to determine just how I did that.

Retroplay

There is supposedly a tab you need to push in that a lot of people miss according to this video: