SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Putting the HT up/down when out of Park

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-21-16, 10:00 AM
  #16  
Retroplay
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
 
Retroplay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 769
Received 79 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JohnnyCake
Agreed, but I fear the top frozen in the mid-open position just because I hit 6 MPH in stop/go traffic. The top already seems like a Rube Goldberg machine so I don't like the idea of the process being interrupted.
Agreed. You could try jumping pin 5 to pin 14 and let us know what you learn. It's going to be while for me here in Michigan with all the snow.

If that doesn't work, the solution would be a bit more complicated.
Old 01-21-16, 11:26 AM
  #17  
WIL44
Instructor
 
WIL44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London UK
Posts: 999
Received 86 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by texsexlex
Retro something that I might be interested in & being along the same lines. I haven't done the quarter window mod,but there is a procedure that allows you to let the quarter windows up with the top down, but you get the warning buzzer / flashing light. It's been along time since I've done it, so don't remember the sequence off the top of my head,but I would like to be able to roll the quarters up & not have the warning buzzer / light. I'm pretty sure someone will chime in tomorrow with the procedure, before I get back online & hopefully it will shed some light on this matter. There may be a way to disarm the warning buzzer using the OBD scanner/tool, but not sure. I've been putting off doing the mod, but may go ahead & jump into it, but have come to realize with the top down & the quarters up, it's a lot less wind & much quieter
Hi Tex

I did the Quarter Window mod with help from Bimmer. The wiring diagram was drawn by scyul and props to him. Anyway if anyone wants my diy of how to do it just ask. It looks complicated and to be honest if it wasn't for bimmer encouraging me I probably would not have done it. Once you get your head round all the wires its pretty easy. Most of the work can be done on the bench.
After the install I added another switch to cut the power to the passenger side (you have to make sure that it is in position for both to operate before opening or closing the roof or it will lock out) so that I could operate the drivers side or both seperately as I prefer to be able to open just the drivers side with the side window most of the time.

Cheers
Steve







Last edited by WIL44; 01-21-16 at 11:30 AM.
Old 01-21-16, 03:06 PM
  #18  
Retroplay
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
 
Retroplay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 769
Received 79 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

I am a DIY guy for sure, but the roll up/down modules are so inexpensive, that I would really recommend just buying one to save the hassle.

Amazon.com: Megatronix - WT4 - 4 Window Roll Up Or 2 Window Up/Down Module With Automatic Temperature And Remote Manual Ventilation: Automotive Amazon.com: Megatronix - WT4 - 4 Window Roll Up Or 2 Window Up/Down Module With Automatic Temperature And Remote Manual Ventilation: Automotive

Manual showing wiring diagram:

http://www.megatronixusa.com/manuals/WT4Manual.pdf

What's needed is a 4 window module (if you want individual window control) or you could also use two modules like the Directed 529T. If you don't want them independent, you could get away with just one up/down module.
Old 01-21-16, 05:10 PM
  #19  
ShawnOk
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
 
ShawnOk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,169
Received 89 Likes on 76 Posts
Default

What would be really neat is to find a solution that's similar to the way the LuxLink QuarterWindow mod works to roll the rear windows up/down. From my understanding, you can triple tap (up or down) either the driver window or passenger window from the driver side control, and that will roll up/down the rear quarter windows. Retro, think you can find a way to get rig something like that up?

BTW Retro, this is the mod I was discussing with you in regard to me making the trip up to you so we can do it together. I do the tear down on both our cars to expose all the hardware, you go HAM on the tech and wiring!

Also, in regard to the double tap of the top drop button on the A/C control. The LuxLink Gen3 had this option. It would be cool to find a way to get it to have a similar function as the LuxLink Gen3 is not being produced. (I have the LuxLink Gen2 without this feature and would love to add it).

Last edited by ShawnOk; 01-21-16 at 05:14 PM.
Old 01-21-16, 09:31 PM
  #20  
texsexlex
Racer
iTrader: (3)
 
texsexlex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: texas
Posts: 1,712
Received 111 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

...appreciate everyone's info & I'll probably jump on it in the next few months. I do have the original write up & the diagram that you posted Wil44......so the next question that comes to mind, if I used one of the modules that Retro posted, does that make the wiring more simple or is it the same procedure,just using a different unit? As much as I've been into my audio/nav system, I don't know why this one makes me hesitant to jump into...lol
Old 01-22-16, 12:54 AM
  #21  
Retroplay
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
 
Retroplay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 769
Received 79 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

Tex, in either case, all you are doing is wiring the module (or relays above) in between the ECU and the motors.

Either one, simply disconnects the connection from the ECU and applies power to the motors manually.

It looks more complicated than it is. If I could find the connectors, I could make harnesses and it would be not be much more difficult than just plugging things in.

Shawn, anything can be done. That would require another little module to be designed to sense the triple taps, but that's not difficult.

I found a source where I can order connector housings, but I need to figure out how to tell the part numbers of the different terminals.
Old 01-22-16, 06:46 PM
  #22  
texsexlex
Racer
iTrader: (3)
 
texsexlex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: texas
Posts: 1,712
Received 111 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Retroplay
Tex, in either case, all you are doing is wiring the module (or relays above) in between the ECU and the motors.

Either one, simply disconnects the connection from the ECU and applies power to the motors manually.

It looks more complicated than it is. If I could find the connectors, I could make harnesses and it would be not be much more difficult than just plugging things in.

Shawn, anything can be done. That would require another little module to be designed to sense the triple taps, but that's not difficult.

I found a source where I can order connector housings, but I need to figure out how to tell the part numbers of the different terminals.
....hey Retro if you do decide to buy the connectors & make the harness, I would pay you for the harness & your time
Old 01-22-16, 11:39 PM
  #23  
Retroplay
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
 
Retroplay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 769
Received 79 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by texsexlex
....hey Retro if you do decide to buy the connectors & make the harness, I would pay you for the harness & your time
I'll be getting into this mod soon, Shawn wants it too. So, I will let you know when I get there. We were originally talking about using the homelink buttons, but I like what Shawn said about the LuxLink works and I think I will go that route. So that means making up a little box to interface with the window buttons.
Old 01-23-16, 09:11 AM
  #24  
texsexlex
Racer
iTrader: (3)
 
texsexlex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: texas
Posts: 1,712
Received 111 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

....either route sounds good to me..
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tofu
LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017)
3
12-08-18 02:43 PM
elipackard
Maintenance
3
12-03-13 05:53 PM
stinkstink
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
1
03-18-09 09:07 PM
rfong
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
8
09-16-06 10:34 AM



Quick Reply: Putting the HT up/down when out of Park



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:15 PM.