LEXZILLA

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys I need a little info on the space where behind the wall where our rear subwoofer is
I'm trying to install a pioneer ts-swx2505 shallow mount sub box behind the wall where the oem sub is
The dimensions are 13&7/8 deep x 18&5/8 wide x 6 high
All measurements are in inches

Any info is greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...hey Lex you'll have to remove the rear seat & probably the trunk interior pieces to get the proper measurements. I'm looking at doing a project similar to this & removing everything is going to be the best bet. If you tackle this soon, keep me informed with your findings, they could come in handy with my planning

Bgw70

Have you ever thought of just adding a amplifier to the subwoofer?

Then you could retain the factory sub and just place a small amp in the rear of the car near the ML amp.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

I've done a bit of work with the OEM subwoofer, including the DIY on this forum to make a 16ohm subwoofer to replace the poor ML sub. I've tried what was proposed above. I basically took the lead of the OEM subwoofer, ran it into a line out converter which have me the left and right channels. I ran that to a JL A1200 amplifier that was mounted in the trunk and then ran the output left and right channel to an 8" JL 8w3v3-4 that I installed in the OEM stock position behind the seat. I found that now that the 16ohm resistance of the OEM sub was gone, that the entire system lost it's "kick." All the power to the cabin speakers was gone. It was as if they were only at half volume. So in my mind, the entire system needs balanced resistance to keep power to all speakers. I ended up putting the 16ohm sub (a dual voice coil, 8ohm per coil) back into the OEM position, keeping the line out converter and amp, and created a custom subwoofer trunk box that housed the JL 8w3v3-4. It's a "corner" box, so it fits right over the left trunk storage compartment.

Bgw70

What are your thoughts on the sound with the additional subwoofer?

Also, did the amp or LOC have level, volume or attenuation adjustments?

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

My bass hits hard with only a single 8" in the trunk (and the minimal bass from the OEM sub)! I do think that alot of the quality comes from the products you use. In the past I was a devout Rockford Fosgate guy, but found the JL Audio has much better products. So I'm sticking with JL. The factory sub gives minimal bass and sound to my upgraded system (RF midbass in the door, JL 4" in the rears, and ML tweeters and highs). The LOC did have gain adjustment to allow my to adjust the amount of preout to the amp. Additionally, the amp does have a gain control and crossover adjustment. I keep the LOC gain at about 75% to avoid washout, and then the amp gain at about 75% to keep the bass from getting distorted. I also added a remote **** to the center console that controls the bass from cabin so I can adjust the bass system with this **** and not having to run to the trunk.

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...I completely removed the stock 8in & added a LOC to a Rockford Fosgate amp. I installed a small ported box in the trunk area with a Rockford Fosgate 10in sub. I too have a volume control for the amp & my gain is set around 65%. I'm interested in the amount of room located behind seat & behind wall of stock sub location,because I'm planning to add a 12in sub in the wall,where the factory sub is mounted. I've had a chance to hear Shawn's setup & it definitely has a kick

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Here are a few pics of my install. I originally thought about putting in a 10" sub in the OEM location but the floor pan behind the subwoofer wall is curved and this interfered with the 10" sub's magnet. Additinally, the top of the 10" sub would cross the tonnaeu bar and this would require it to be altered. Too much headache for me. Thus, the sub wasn't able to sit flush for mounting OR i had to extremely move the face of the subwoofer forward into the rear seat back. As you can see from the photos with my gf holding the seat back, I had to dig out that square area. Moving the face of the sub even firther, would make the middle of the seat bulge out. Thus I HAD to stick with an 8" for the stock OEM location. Then my guy went to work making the custom trunk box. We originally went for a 10" there too, but putting a 10" also required a specific amount of space for a nonported box which would not in the requirements I gave him (fit over the storage cubby, not interfere with the top feature, and not take up valuable real estate in the trunk). Take a look at the photos and maybe you can guesstimate the true space behind the speaker if you keep in mind the speaker is 8".

PS. In any instance, if you fuse any sub with a larger/deeper magnet you might have to remove the greenish "L shaped bracket" which is a structural support for the top to rest on over the carpeted liner (seen here connected to the black support with a silver 10mm bolt). A risk I was willing to take since I put a custom box which now serves as this support.

PSS. i recommend running your adjustable gain LOC to the trunk fuse box hatch and mounting it there. Much easier to access at that location than to have to tear the trunk apart to change the gain level.

LEXZILLA

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking about using a ten inch sub in the place of that eight that's behind the rear seat
And installing a amp along with it
I'm going to use a spacer on the subwoofer

LEXZILLA

iTrader: (1)

I was also thinking about installing a kicker hideaway (or two) under the rear seat
Has anyone ever heard them?
Hey Shawn how much would you charge me to make that box you installed in the rear of your sc
I have PayPal

Thanks

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Hey LExzilla, I thought about those hideaway ones also. Most now have a built in amp. There's a really nice one from JL. But, I don't think there's enough room under the seats. People have used something called "Bass Shakers" under the seat. You should look into that. Secondly, I didn't make the box in my trunk. I had it done at a shop where he took some measurements and then built it on the spot. If you take my photo to any car installation shop, they should be able to make one for you in a similar fashion.

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...hey Lex there is an earlier thread about stereo/sub setups & it has alot of pics of what other people have done also. The idea about the rear seat has been done also. The OP removed the bottom section of the rear seat & had a cabinet built to fit,then recovered it in the same color leather as original & it looks good. I'm going to start digging into mine the early part of next year, think I'm going to still try for the 12 inch in the rear wall.I'll try to find that thread also this evening when i get home.....sitting in dentist office now...lol

Neil E

I may be able to help with a few pictures of what the rear seat area offers as I'm still in the process of finishing the bass set up. I ruled out using a free air driver or an under seat space saver bass box as the trusted local installer said I wouldn't be satisfied with the sound. There's so little room to work with, in the end I decided to remove the rear seats and went with two JL10s in sealed enclosures. It might look okay if I ever get around to completing it.

LEXZILLA

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm gonna put a ten inch sub in the rear wall with a amp but how do I wire the amp to come on with the radio on the ml amp?

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...on the back of the radio, there is an antenna wire (usually blue), that gets power when you start the car. You should connect that wire to the power wire coming from the amp,this will supply power to the amp everytime you start the engine. There is also a constant power wire coming from the amp, but this should be connected to the battery or a constant power supply