cbgdjg

Has anyone had problems with these? How did it affect your steering? Did you just replace the bushings or the whole control arm?

ogjohnsmit

I just purchased an 07 with 113k miles, the Lexus service history says front lower control arms were replaced at 65k if that tells you anything...

riknchar

How did you come out with your lower control arm bushing issue? Did you have a mechanic replace the bushings, did you go with new Lower Control Arms, or did you just wait to see how things develop?

My lower control arm bushings are "getting soft" according to my independent mechanic (who I trust), and I'm considering the same options.

Thanks!

Bgw70

Remember, there are two control arms on each side.

riknchar

Two Lower Control Arms on each side, or one Upper and one Lower Control Arm on each side?

416tt

iTrader: (1)

Both sides have 3 arms total.

1) Upper Control arm
2) Castor arm (lower 2nd control arm which connects to main lower arm)
3) main lower control arm

riknchar

Bimmer: Thanks for the great diagram and explanation of the 3 Control Arms! Very useful info that is difficult to track down (I've been reading everything I can regarding the SC430 control arms, and haven't seen this sort of simple diagram anywhere else).

Regarding the Lower Control Arm #2, I see you say the bushing "Should" be changed out. Interesting. From what I've read, this is the weakest link in this setup, and the bushing that bears the most weight/abuse by normal use. Mine seems to be the problem in my suspension shakes (when going over bumps, especially while cornering). My car only has 44K miles, but has mostly sat for the last 10 years, which has probably been tough on the rubber bushings.

Question: Is it possible to obtain a "nearly OEM" rubber bushing for the #2 control arm? I tend to prefer the soft suspension/well damped ride of a new Lexus, vs the more aggressive, somewhat harsher, potentially squeaky feel of a Poly bushing. I know there are two decent options for the Poly bushings: The Daizen Control arm busing "kit" costing $99 on Amazon and the Figs Engineering specific bushing for $160. I never hear about a more standard rubber replacement bushing.

I can purchase totally new Lower Control Arms (#2) for $250 a set (from MyLParts.com), and am leaning towards that route unless someone knows of a cheaper way to get the car back to "factory new" without the Poly bushings.

Any other options I'm not considering? Thanks!

416tt

iTrader: (1)

the only rubber option I know is this and these guys are so expensive that its stupid.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hardrace-Fron...5TXxN8&vxp=mtr

Personally I would leave the upper and main lower arm rubber and change the castor to poly as I know that even if you replace your arm for a whole new oem one (they will eventually go to waste aswell).. The Daizen castor arm bushing is specifically a problem for me because my car is very low, I have 20's with very low profile tires and I have to keep my coilovers at mid stiffness so my wheels don't touch the fender lining and the roads are super crappy. Other then that the daizen castor arm bushings are great, They do not let my wheels wander all over.. the figs ones are a even better design as they have the pivot point which obviously gives the arm smooth movement when the suspension is travelling up and down if you know what I mean. However Daizens were good for the price... they squeaked at the start and I simply sprayed a can of wd40 grease (with the little pipe thing) and they never squeaked again.

Its up to you but personally I would not put oem rubber back on the castors.. they will be great at start but eventually you will deal with the same issue again.. you can try poly and if your not happy with the feel you can always sell the arms with polys on them, and buy new arms.. that way old arms aren't wasted

Also when these arms are being changed. check all your ball joints with your own hands!! because if they are bad, they add a lot to the loose front end. the reason I say that is many mechanics will just try to shake the whole wheel and see if it moves lol ITS NOT GONNA MOVE... it needs to be separated from hub assembly for you to check properly.

I changed everything out at once (sway links, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings) it saves time and money and you get a fresh start. rather then changing one piece at a time.. it just costs more money.

if your a DIYer that's even better.. open the suspension up on your own time.. check and order

foreste1

Hi guys, my 04 SC 430 is super smooth until I hit a series of bumps and the steering wheel shakes in my hands. It has brand new tires I just did and my mechanic had it up and said everything looks tight and its perfect underneath and could not find anything to replace but its just not right I dont think? I have a GX470, and its super solid over bumps, nothing like this car is. I just bought it so not sure how it should be, but have had many Lexus and always smooth.
Its been to Lexus every 5,000 miles since new, and had anything it needed done by previous owner, but it has 217,000 on it.
I see some people say steering rack bushings, which sounds like something that would cause this weird shake in wheel over bumps possibly? How do you check for that? I have had Mercedes in past that had steering shock, and that would cause same kind of feeling in wheel, dont know if this car has steering shock?
Sorry if post is not in right spot, not sure how to start my own post.....

Bon

Clearly, any control arm slop causes looseness and can allow wheel shake. That said, the two highest stressed components are the lower ball joints and lower control arm #2. When replacing any front end components you'll have everything pretty much apart and it's easy to check the inner and outer control arms on the steering rack. If you're a do-it-yourselfer then the cost isn't all that bad if you shop carefully. OEM lower control arm #2's on eBay are a good value and I even bought a pair at one time for even greater savings. Nothing short of getting under the car and inspecting the components is going to guarantee that you're addressing the correct components.

Bgw70

with that many miles and if it is still original parts, I would say you need everything. Shocks, upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends and stabilizer bar bushings.

Caflashbob

How much ride quality change is noticed with the poly bushings installed in the front end?

i was very surprised at the less stiff ride with the poly sway bar bushings. Had to be the silicone grease.

the original OEM bushings had no grease and made the front end stiff over sharp edges.

now it's sort of ok. Spring and shock dampening are still wrong but it's driveable now.

lots less body roll in tight high speed turns with the greases poly bushings now.

Bgw70

Mine was fine with the bushing but was missing something on the road. Turns out it was the shocks. Installed the D2 coilovers, car is much stiffer now, but I like the feel. It really feels good and solid at high speed on the interstate and on winding roads.
on bumpy roads, you really feel it but you feel in control.

Bon

I have poly sway bar bushings that have been there for several years. They were greased when they went on. Now that it's cold they're squeaking so I have to go back in and do it again. When it warms up over about 50F the squeaking goes away so I tend to blow it off until it gets cold and it annoys me again. Of course, it's so cold that I certainly don't want to! I know what it is so I can ignore it pretty well but my wife worries about it.

foreste1

I had it up in air and all bushings look great and control arms etc. I am suspecting the steering rack bushings. I just posted a new thread asking differences between Dazien and Figs, but Dazien guy wont reply or answer phone number I can find, which in itself makes me want to order from Figs but dont want it to be harsh feeling, want it OEM feeling in steering wheel.