SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Headlight help

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Old 08-25-15, 05:27 AM
  #16  
mandyfig
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Originally Posted by LexBrett
I replaced the bulb this weekend. Going to check voltage on ballast. If that's good, then maybe I damaged bulb during the challenging install..
Did you actually see the ballast?
Old 08-25-15, 05:33 AM
  #17  
LexBrett
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Originally Posted by mandyfig
Did you actually see the ballast?
Yes I sure did. Once I figured it out (which took hours and hours), it wasn't too hard to remove. My next step will be to clean it off with an emery cloth with the battery fully disconnected. Then I will carefully test voltage. I feel it is quite likely that the ballast was in contact with water during my accident and it is failing and needs replacement. Can get a ballast on ebay used for $50 or new $80. Will have to take out entire light but it seems doable and will probably take an entire weekend.
Old 08-26-15, 09:10 AM
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I recently had an issue with the IS350 ballast (failed due to condensation). Had to tear it down, I did not replace the ballast the right way and it was ok for a few days and went off again. I ended up splicing the wires (this may have caused the failure). The proper way would have been to actually heat it up and split it up and separate the base and the lens. Then you have full access to the ballast (there’s a screw that holds down the wires that prevents you from pulling the wires, means it is sensitive, hence you have to crack it open to get to the ballast). Silly me utube had all the DIY’s on it and I did not bother to check it out. Big lesson learned.

So one weekend soon, I will have to do a tear down and figure out if I can salvage the ballast or get a new one. I bought a brand new DENSO ballast at Amazon for little over $100. Bet you they are all the same.

Try utube before you go on doing stuff.
Old 08-26-15, 09:52 AM
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LexBrett
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Originally Posted by mandyfig
I recently had an issue with the IS350 ballast (failed due to condensation). Had to tear it down, I did not replace the ballast the right way and it was ok for a few days and went off again. I ended up splicing the wires (this may have caused the failure). The proper way would have been to actually heat it up and split it up and separate the base and the lens. Then you have full access to the ballast (there’s a screw that holds down the wires that prevents you from pulling the wires, means it is sensitive, hence you have to crack it open to get to the ballast). Silly me utube had all the DIY’s on it and I did not bother to check it out. Big lesson learned.

So one weekend soon, I will have to do a tear down and figure out if I can salvage the ballast or get a new one. I bought a brand new DENSO ballast at Amazon for little over $100. Bet you they are all the same.

Try utube before you go on doing stuff.
Yes, there is a youtube video on how to replace the ballast... I'm just going to check voltage first, then check the connections with sc430 wiring diagram. Then if all else fails will replace the ballast, and maybe even the headlight. I have condensation too, maybe the root of it all..
Old 08-26-15, 05:00 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LexBrett
My next step will be to clean it off with an emery cloth with the battery fully disconnected
If the connectors have precious metal on them using any abrasive is not advised.

What we used in high voltage flash tube connectors was a product called DeoxIT. Very little needed as its a thin film product and it will improve conductivity.

Just be careful not to get it on the glass bulb.

I've also used it to revive intermittent aircraft yoke Push to Talk (PTT) switches with excellent success

http://deoxitgold.com/?progold_info=1

Last edited by FLYCT; 08-26-15 at 05:04 PM.
Old 08-26-15, 08:28 PM
  #21  
LexBrett
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Bought this stuff fingers crossed
Old 08-27-15, 07:01 PM
  #22  
LexBrett
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Default Bought headlight

Broke down and bought headlight assembly on eBay. Comes with ballast, connections, and bulbs.

Will reaching out for support (technical and moral support) for the install!!
Old 08-27-15, 09:00 PM
  #23  
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I once had flickering headlights on my 2007. The lights would actually turn off while driving on one side or the other but would come back on when I turned the switch off and back on. The dealer told me the bulbs were faulty and they replaced them both under warranty. I though for sure they were wrong and that the problem was the ballast but the problem has never recurred since 2008. The dealer claims the replacement warranty bulbs were $675.00 each. Although I paid nothing, I asked "how could you even tell me that with a straight face?" and he said "I guess I can because the bulbs for the LS460 are $1,000 each."

Last edited by donaldp; 08-27-15 at 09:03 PM.
Old 08-28-15, 06:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mandyfig
I recently had an issue with the IS350 ballast (failed due to condensation). Had to tear it down, I did not replace the ballast the right way and it was ok for a few days and went off again. I ended up splicing the wires (this may have caused the failure). The proper way would have been to actually heat it up and split it up and separate the base and the lens. Then you have full access to the ballast (there’s a screw that holds down the wires that prevents you from pulling the wires, means it is sensitive, hence you have to crack it open to get to the ballast). Silly me utube had all the DIY’s on it and I did not bother to check it out. Big lesson learned.

So one weekend soon, I will have to do a tear down and figure out if I can salvage the ballast or get a new one. I bought a brand new DENSO ballast at Amazon for little over $100. Bet you they are all the same.

Try utube before you go on doing stuff.
DENSO ballast? Sweet. That should be a direct replacement then....
Old 08-28-15, 06:28 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by donaldp
I once had flickering headlights on my 2007. The lights would actually turn off while driving on one side or the other but would come back on when I turned the switch off and back on. The dealer told me the bulbs were faulty and they replaced them both under warranty. I though for sure they were wrong and that the problem was the ballast but the problem has never recurred since 2008. The dealer claims the replacement warranty bulbs were $675.00 each. Although I paid nothing, I asked "how could you even tell me that with a straight face?" and he said "I guess I can because the bulbs for the LS460 are $1,000 each."
What a joke. You can get those bulbs on amazon for $30 or at Advnace Auto for $60-$100. This is why I work on my car..
Old 08-28-15, 08:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LexBrett
What a joke. You can get those bulbs on amazon for $30 or at Advnace Auto for $60-$100. This is why I work on my car..
I do all the work on my car too. The coupe has only been to the dealer for warranty issues in eight years and 100,000 miles. It has literally cost me nothing other than routine maintenance since purchased new.
Old 08-31-15, 08:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by donaldp
I do all the work on my car too. The coupe has only been to the dealer for warranty issues in eight years and 100,000 miles. It has literally cost me nothing other than routine maintenance since purchased new.
It's just incredible how much the dealer charges. And they lie all the time.
Old 10-01-15, 02:55 PM
  #28  
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not ballast the fickering is due to the bulb 100% Also I carry all bulb sizes for HIDs kits and LED bulbs n the new LED kits as well as CREE LED bars.
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