Roof Problem
07-05-16, 11:59 AM
#31
Lead Lap
Sounds like an intermittent switch or sensor.
What does the control switch lights do when you attempt to activate it?
What does the control switch lights do when you attempt to activate it?
07-05-16, 12:35 PM
#32
I would watch exactly how the top is fitting into the trunk at the moment of failure -- is there some obstruction? does it appear to be sitting correctly? is there some up/down "play" in the top after it is in the trunk?
I would also attempt to locate the sensors and test them.
Its a different error code, but this thread is a pretty good discussion of how we identified and replaced a faulty top switch for 1/100th of what the dealer wanted.
OTOH, there is much to be said for just taking this to the dealer. Hopefully with the info in this thread you can direct them to the problem which will also let them know that you are not a noob that can be taken advantage of.
07-05-16, 02:22 PM
#33
The error code saying there's an "open" would to me seem to be bad, dirty or misaligned switch. If you're just curious tinkering can certainly be interesting but requires time and patience obviously. If you just want it fixed, a dealer is far from a bad idea. It's likely they've seen this before and know pretty much what to check and do. Just my 02 cents and probably not worth that!
Both of the sliding motors ---- drive gears that send pulses back to the ECU to help ensure both motors are moving at the same speed,--to avoid binding of the two hinges. If the ECU is giving you error code B2502 (Open in Roof Drive RH Circuit), the service manual indicates that this is referring to the actual 12V power to that drive-motor,---which on a 2007 Roof ECU,--- is pins 2 & 6 on the S20 Connector.
S20 Signal Description Function
1 QWR+ Right Quarter Window Power (+) driven to +12V to Open window
2 RMR- Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Roof
3 QWR- Right Quarter Window Power (-) driven to +12V to Close window
4 LMR- Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Door
5 LMR+ Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (+) driven to +12V to Open door
6 RMR+ Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (+) driven to +12V to Open Roof
If the right drive motor is actually OK, the ECU could "think" there's an open circuit to that motor --- if the connector on the motor is loose/corroded, or if the S20 connector was loose/corroded, or obviously if there was a break in either of the two conductors to that motor.
IMO, it might be worth your time to perform a simple check of those two connections ... given that specific error code.
Also, if you measure the resistance on the S20 cable harness between pins 2 & 6, you should read some single digit (or more likely a fraction) of ohms for that motor --- if the motor windings are OK, and if the connections are solid.
R=V/I
So for a 12V system with a 12 Amp motor, R=1 ohm.
I'd be interested to know what you find if you check those two connectors and then measure those pins ....
just trying to help...
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
07-06-16, 07:12 AM
#35
I believe the error code is implying that there's an actual open-circuit in the power wiring to the right roof-motor,---as opposed to an open in a switch. From my research on the roof operation, if the roof is partially open (or partially closed), and the ECU detects a problem (such as one of the sliding-motors not working), it tries to return the roof to the closest position it can --with whatever resources it still has at its disposal.
Both of the sliding motors ---- drive gears that send pulses back to the ECU to help ensure both motors are moving at the same speed,--to avoid binding of the two hinges. If the ECU is giving you error code B2502 (Open in Roof Drive RH Circuit), the service manual indicates that this is referring to the actual 12V power to that drive-motor,---which on a 2007 Roof ECU,--- is pins 2 & 6 on the S20 Connector.
S20 Signal Description Function
1 QWR+ Right Quarter Window Power (+) driven to +12V to Open window
2 RMR- Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Roof
3 QWR- Right Quarter Window Power (-) driven to +12V to Close window
4 LMR- Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Door
5 LMR+ Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (+) driven to +12V to Open door
6 RMR+ Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (+) driven to +12V to Open Roof
If the right drive motor is actually OK, the ECU could "think" there's an open circuit to that motor --- if the connector on the motor is loose/corroded, or if the S20 connector was loose/corroded, or obviously if there was a break in either of the two conductors to that motor.
IMO, it might be worth your time to perform a simple check of those two connections ... given that specific error code.
Also, if you measure the resistance on the S20 cable harness between pins 2 & 6, you should read some single digit (or more likely a fraction) of ohms for that motor --- if the motor windings are OK, and if the connections are solid.
R=V/I
So for a 12V system with a 12 Amp motor, R=1 ohm.
I'd be interested to know what you find if you check those two connectors and then measure those pins ....
just trying to help...
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
Both of the sliding motors ---- drive gears that send pulses back to the ECU to help ensure both motors are moving at the same speed,--to avoid binding of the two hinges. If the ECU is giving you error code B2502 (Open in Roof Drive RH Circuit), the service manual indicates that this is referring to the actual 12V power to that drive-motor,---which on a 2007 Roof ECU,--- is pins 2 & 6 on the S20 Connector.
S20 Signal Description Function
1 QWR+ Right Quarter Window Power (+) driven to +12V to Open window
2 RMR- Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Roof
3 QWR- Right Quarter Window Power (-) driven to +12V to Close window
4 LMR- Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Door
5 LMR+ Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (+) driven to +12V to Open door
6 RMR+ Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (+) driven to +12V to Open Roof
If the right drive motor is actually OK, the ECU could "think" there's an open circuit to that motor --- if the connector on the motor is loose/corroded, or if the S20 connector was loose/corroded, or obviously if there was a break in either of the two conductors to that motor.
IMO, it might be worth your time to perform a simple check of those two connections ... given that specific error code.
Also, if you measure the resistance on the S20 cable harness between pins 2 & 6, you should read some single digit (or more likely a fraction) of ohms for that motor --- if the motor windings are OK, and if the connections are solid.
R=V/I
So for a 12V system with a 12 Amp motor, R=1 ohm.
I'd be interested to know what you find if you check those two connectors and then measure those pins ....
just trying to help...
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
Wow there is a man that knows his stuff. Are you a Lexus Mechanic ??
07-06-16, 03:42 PM
#36
...lol...only in the DIY-WYH2 (when u have to) sense...
Electrical engineer by day, but 1-month after purchasing my SC430 last summer, my top stopped working. Thinking the problem might be simple enough for me to troubleshoot, I set out to find the car's wiring diagram for the roof. I found the diagram after a little research,....at Mitchell's online.
Checked everything I could, to determine what might be stopping mine from working (pressed open- switch & nothing happened-scenario),....so I basically became more intimate with the inner-workings of this particular part of the car,---- than I really ever cared to be....
That said, --- and after being "inspired" by the numerous members of this forum that freely share their time and knowledge of this vehicle, ---- with some even writing virtual novels sharing what they've personally learned playing around with this car (think and thank Retroplay),--- I just wanted to see if I can possibly help others here,---the way others here have helped me --- on any electrical roof issues.
I also happen to firmly believe that all tops are intended to come down/off... :-)
Hopefully Bimmer can let us know if the error code he received,--- actually matches the problem & potential solution, once he's had a chance to check that harness...
BTW: My error code was the one that said I needed a new AC controller. Scratching my head---I had to go back and quiz the Lexus tech on that one, ---- since the Open-Close switch on that controller is physically hard-wired directly to the roof ECU in the trunk, ---- so I didn't understand why the AC controller could cause this issue. Long story short: The AC ECU monitors an outside air temp sensor (so that u can't open the top when its 75 below zero, I guess) --- and then sends serial data to the roof ECU to effectively say "...its OK to open the roof if the driver says to ..."
...at least that's what I was told ---- probably to get me to stop the interrogation of the Lexus service tech...
Now at that time, I'm thinking to myself: if a serial communication signal-failure from the AC-ECU to the Roof-ECU, can stop my roof from opening,.... ----and the two don't communicate with one another for any other reason---- then why the F didn't Lexus just add another damn $3 temp sensor ---- and connect it directly to the roof ECU --- and eliminate the need for those two ECUs to communicate with one another,....completely?
Later on, I see Retro posted the pin-out for the AC-ECU, (which interestingly doesn't seem to actually have a connection for an outside air temp sensor---although there are still a couple of unlabeled pins on his sheet, so I'm guessing that maybe it lands on 1 or 2 of those)---- and he asked for help doing the same with some of the other ECUs. Hence the addition of the Roof ECU pin-out and pin descriptions from me....
After buying a 2005 AC-ECU on eBay for $300 and installing it with info off this forum (I wasn't giddy about the $2k+ quote from my local lexus dealer), --- and then later replacing it with one from a wrecked '07 for another $300,--- it appears as though the service tech was correct. Both replacement units worked, so it must have been a communication issue between the two ECUs.
AND If anyone here finds (or sees) another '06-'10 AC-ECU for sale (Toyota/Denso part # 55900-24330), please let me know. I want to keep a spare one of those, --and while the '05 unit worked my roof and almost everything else,--- it didn't appear to operate my AC compressor-clutch properly for some reason. After more research, I discovered there appears to be a slight pin-out change between the '02-'05 AC-ECUs (Toyota/Denso part # 55900-24260), and the ones in the 06-10 models.
... and that's simply not an option here in S.Carolina :-).
And if I can help anyone here with any roof electrical issues in the future, (with error codes/wiring diagrams/etc.) --- please let me know. I have 'em.
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
Electrical engineer by day, but 1-month after purchasing my SC430 last summer, my top stopped working. Thinking the problem might be simple enough for me to troubleshoot, I set out to find the car's wiring diagram for the roof. I found the diagram after a little research,....at Mitchell's online.
Checked everything I could, to determine what might be stopping mine from working (pressed open- switch & nothing happened-scenario),....so I basically became more intimate with the inner-workings of this particular part of the car,---- than I really ever cared to be....
That said, --- and after being "inspired" by the numerous members of this forum that freely share their time and knowledge of this vehicle, ---- with some even writing virtual novels sharing what they've personally learned playing around with this car (think and thank Retroplay),--- I just wanted to see if I can possibly help others here,---the way others here have helped me --- on any electrical roof issues.
I also happen to firmly believe that all tops are intended to come down/off... :-)
Hopefully Bimmer can let us know if the error code he received,--- actually matches the problem & potential solution, once he's had a chance to check that harness...
BTW: My error code was the one that said I needed a new AC controller. Scratching my head---I had to go back and quiz the Lexus tech on that one, ---- since the Open-Close switch on that controller is physically hard-wired directly to the roof ECU in the trunk, ---- so I didn't understand why the AC controller could cause this issue. Long story short: The AC ECU monitors an outside air temp sensor (so that u can't open the top when its 75 below zero, I guess) --- and then sends serial data to the roof ECU to effectively say "...its OK to open the roof if the driver says to ..."
...at least that's what I was told ---- probably to get me to stop the interrogation of the Lexus service tech...
Now at that time, I'm thinking to myself: if a serial communication signal-failure from the AC-ECU to the Roof-ECU, can stop my roof from opening,.... ----and the two don't communicate with one another for any other reason---- then why the F didn't Lexus just add another damn $3 temp sensor ---- and connect it directly to the roof ECU --- and eliminate the need for those two ECUs to communicate with one another,....completely?
Later on, I see Retro posted the pin-out for the AC-ECU, (which interestingly doesn't seem to actually have a connection for an outside air temp sensor---although there are still a couple of unlabeled pins on his sheet, so I'm guessing that maybe it lands on 1 or 2 of those)---- and he asked for help doing the same with some of the other ECUs. Hence the addition of the Roof ECU pin-out and pin descriptions from me....
After buying a 2005 AC-ECU on eBay for $300 and installing it with info off this forum (I wasn't giddy about the $2k+ quote from my local lexus dealer), --- and then later replacing it with one from a wrecked '07 for another $300,--- it appears as though the service tech was correct. Both replacement units worked, so it must have been a communication issue between the two ECUs.
AND If anyone here finds (or sees) another '06-'10 AC-ECU for sale (Toyota/Denso part # 55900-24330), please let me know. I want to keep a spare one of those, --and while the '05 unit worked my roof and almost everything else,--- it didn't appear to operate my AC compressor-clutch properly for some reason. After more research, I discovered there appears to be a slight pin-out change between the '02-'05 AC-ECUs (Toyota/Denso part # 55900-24260), and the ones in the 06-10 models.
... and that's simply not an option here in S.Carolina :-).
And if I can help anyone here with any roof electrical issues in the future, (with error codes/wiring diagrams/etc.) --- please let me know. I have 'em.
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
07-06-16, 04:24 PM
#37
Lead Lap
Great to know TarHeelNic!
07-06-16, 07:27 PM
#38
Lexus Test Driver
I certainly hope I never have a roof problem but you never know. If I do, I will certainly look you up along with other experts on this forum!
07-07-16, 07:10 AM
#39
Thank you so much JohnnyCake and TarheelNic, i really appreciate it.
your right johnny my problem seems to be between
* Detect full open position
* Tilt down package tray
currently the discussion is over my head, so i will go over this when im home from work and perhaps try the things you guys asked. this time I will get someone else to press the switch so i can monitor exactly what the car is doing...
do you guys know what this sliding gear motor does? because it says right side i do want to mention that I have noticed weakness on the right side of the roof. I am not sure if its still present but I will check again asap.
Thank you again
your right johnny my problem seems to be between
* Detect full open position
* Tilt down package tray
currently the discussion is over my head, so i will go over this when im home from work and perhaps try the things you guys asked. this time I will get someone else to press the switch so i can monitor exactly what the car is doing...
do you guys know what this sliding gear motor does? because it says right side i do want to mention that I have noticed weakness on the right side of the roof. I am not sure if its still present but I will check again asap.
Thank you again
07-08-16, 01:53 PM
#40
Thank you so much JohnnyCake and TarheelNic, i really appreciate it.
your right johnny my problem seems to be between
* Detect full open position
* Tilt down package tray
currently the discussion is over my head, so i will go over this when im home from work and perhaps try the things you guys asked. this time I will get someone else to press the switch so i can monitor exactly what the car is doing...
do you guys know what this sliding gear motor does? because it says right side i do want to mention that I have noticed weakness on the right side of the roof. I am not sure if its still present but I will check again asap.
Thank you again
your right johnny my problem seems to be between
* Detect full open position
* Tilt down package tray
currently the discussion is over my head, so i will go over this when im home from work and perhaps try the things you guys asked. this time I will get someone else to press the switch so i can monitor exactly what the car is doing...
do you guys know what this sliding gear motor does? because it says right side i do want to mention that I have noticed weakness on the right side of the roof. I am not sure if its still present but I will check again asap.
Thank you again
The sliding-roof motors are what open and close the roof. See the attached image that shows their physical location in the car.
07-08-16, 02:23 PM
#41
The roof ECU is in the trunk, and its harness-terminals are shown below...
The harness pins you'd need to measure resistance between (for the right-side roof motor) are #2 & #6 on the S20 harness.
I'm hoping you just have a little corrosion on one of the wiring-harness-contacts, ---as opposed to an actual failed-motor. Let me know if you need additional info...
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
The harness pins you'd need to measure resistance between (for the right-side roof motor) are #2 & #6 on the S20 harness.
I'm hoping you just have a little corrosion on one of the wiring-harness-contacts, ---as opposed to an actual failed-motor. Let me know if you need additional info...
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
07-08-16, 03:28 PM
#42
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: TN
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm new here and greatfull for all the good info. My 05 roof will not retract. Everything appears to work OK except the roof only lifts an inch or so from where it rests on the windshield. Trunk and windows seems to be working fine. I don't get a blinking red light.
Took this to local dealer. He said it would take 3 to 4 days to diagnose.... He also quoted me over six hundred to replace th O2 sensor. Got scared and left...
I just ordered the TechStream diagnostic tool. Before it comes I plan to connect/reconnect battery and check in trunk to see if any corrosion on terminals. Any other advice given the symptoms? Thanks
Took this to local dealer. He said it would take 3 to 4 days to diagnose.... He also quoted me over six hundred to replace th O2 sensor. Got scared and left...
I just ordered the TechStream diagnostic tool. Before it comes I plan to connect/reconnect battery and check in trunk to see if any corrosion on terminals. Any other advice given the symptoms? Thanks
07-10-16, 04:54 PM
#43
Bimmer,
If u discover that the motor is actually bad, I saw this one for $83 today while
"shopping" for some spare parts for my '07. I'm sure other ones that come with the complete brackets & gear can be found here too, if needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-03-04-05-06-07-08-09-10-LEXUS-SC430-R-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-MTR-860720-Motor-ONLY-/351742553970?fits=Model%3ASC430&vxp=mtr&hash=item51e57d6f72
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
If u discover that the motor is actually bad, I saw this one for $83 today while
"shopping" for some spare parts for my '07. I'm sure other ones that come with the complete brackets & gear can be found here too, if needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-03-04-05-06-07-08-09-10-LEXUS-SC430-R-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-MTR-860720-Motor-ONLY-/351742553970?fits=Model%3ASC430&vxp=mtr&hash=item51e57d6f72
_____________________________
2007 SC430
Starfire Pearl/Ecru
Vais SLX w/XM;
NavTool 3.0-HDMI for AppleTV,
BU Camera & BlindSpot Cam.
07-11-16, 10:23 AM
#44
Pole Position
I'm new here and greatfull for all the good info. My 05 roof will not retract. Everything appears to work OK except the roof only lifts an inch or so from where it rests on the windshield. Trunk and windows seems to be working fine. I don't get a blinking red light.
Took this to local dealer. He said it would take 3 to 4 days to diagnose....
He also quoted me over six hundred to replace th O2 sensor. Got scared and left...
Took this to local dealer. He said it would take 3 to 4 days to diagnose....
He also quoted me over six hundred to replace th O2 sensor. Got scared and left...
Hey Matt,
I would start two new threads. One about the O2 sensor (which is pretty easy to replace)
And one about your top.
That way your responses won't get confused with the current discussion.
07-11-16, 11:56 AM
#45
btw to all the people replying, thank you
I noticed a few people mention switch, i assume thats the little tiny switches that seem to be all over.... like the one in JohnnyCakes thread?
Very detailed instructions, thank you
i don't know much about electrical i assume i need a multimeter, but just to be clear i see two instructions above 1 is to actually power the motor connections? (i assume both sides same time?) and second is to read the resistance between the two? sorry noob questions with this stuff
Also i think you are right about the right motor not getting enough power because come to think of it i have seen the right side of the roof struggle a few times, kind of like when you lift a heavy weight and your arm shakes. I feel like the roof partially goes back and the rest of the way it just drops because of its weight. Also when i said it fidgets after pressing switch while it sits in trunk, i think that was from one side trying to lift. I couldn't see clearly however because i was the one pressing switch so i will get someone else to press while i watch
also thanks for the link to the motor.... I have seen it, it was visible after taking the rear right panel off.. i wonder how easy it is to change
I will try moving roof this weekend and get my hands on the multimeter.. will post my findings
thank you very much !
I believe the error code is implying that there's an actual open-circuit in the power wiring to the right roof-motor,---as opposed to an open in a switch. From my research on the roof operation, if the roof is partially open (or partially closed), and the ECU detects a problem (such as one of the sliding-motors not working), it tries to return the roof to the closest position it can --with whatever resources it still has at its disposal.
Both of the sliding motors ---- drive gears that send pulses back to the ECU to help ensure both motors are moving at the same speed,--to avoid binding of the two hinges. If the ECU is giving you error code B2502 (Open in Roof Drive RH Circuit), the service manual indicates that this is referring to the actual 12V power to that drive-motor,---which on a 2007 Roof ECU,--- is pins 2 & 6 on the S20 Connector.
S20 Signal Description Function
1 QWR+ Right Quarter Window Power (+) driven to +12V to Open window
2 RMR- Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Roof
3 QWR- Right Quarter Window Power (-) driven to +12V to Close window
4 LMR- Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Door
5 LMR+ Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (+) driven to +12V to Open door
6 RMR+ Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (+) driven to +12V to Open Roof
If the right drive motor is actually OK, the ECU could "think" there's an open circuit to that motor --- if the connector on the motor is loose/corroded, or if the S20 connector was loose/corroded, or obviously if there was a break in either of the two conductors to that motor.
IMO, it might be worth your time to perform a simple check of those two connections ... given that specific error code.
Also, if you measure the resistance on the S20 cable harness between pins 2 & 6, you should read some single digit (or more likely a fraction) of ohms for that motor --- if the motor windings are OK, and if the connections are solid.
R=V/I
So for a 12V system with a 12 Amp motor, R=1 ohm.
I'd be interested to know what you find if you check those two connectors and then measure those pins ....
just trying to help...
Both of the sliding motors ---- drive gears that send pulses back to the ECU to help ensure both motors are moving at the same speed,--to avoid binding of the two hinges. If the ECU is giving you error code B2502 (Open in Roof Drive RH Circuit), the service manual indicates that this is referring to the actual 12V power to that drive-motor,---which on a 2007 Roof ECU,--- is pins 2 & 6 on the S20 Connector.
S20 Signal Description Function
1 QWR+ Right Quarter Window Power (+) driven to +12V to Open window
2 RMR- Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Roof
3 QWR- Right Quarter Window Power (-) driven to +12V to Close window
4 LMR- Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (-) driven to +12V to Close Door
5 LMR+ Right Luggage-Door Motor Power (+) driven to +12V to Open door
6 RMR+ Right ROOF DRIVE MOTOR Power (+) driven to +12V to Open Roof
If the right drive motor is actually OK, the ECU could "think" there's an open circuit to that motor --- if the connector on the motor is loose/corroded, or if the S20 connector was loose/corroded, or obviously if there was a break in either of the two conductors to that motor.
IMO, it might be worth your time to perform a simple check of those two connections ... given that specific error code.
Also, if you measure the resistance on the S20 cable harness between pins 2 & 6, you should read some single digit (or more likely a fraction) of ohms for that motor --- if the motor windings are OK, and if the connections are solid.
R=V/I
So for a 12V system with a 12 Amp motor, R=1 ohm.
I'd be interested to know what you find if you check those two connectors and then measure those pins ....
just trying to help...
The roof ECU is in the trunk, and its harness-terminals are shown below...
The harness pins you'd need to measure resistance between (for the right-side roof motor) are #2 & #6 on the S20 harness.
I'm hoping you just have a little corrosion on one of the wiring-harness-contacts, ---as opposed to an actual failed-motor. Let me know if you need additional info...
The harness pins you'd need to measure resistance between (for the right-side roof motor) are #2 & #6 on the S20 harness.
I'm hoping you just have a little corrosion on one of the wiring-harness-contacts, ---as opposed to an actual failed-motor. Let me know if you need additional info...
i don't know much about electrical i assume i need a multimeter, but just to be clear i see two instructions above 1 is to actually power the motor connections? (i assume both sides same time?) and second is to read the resistance between the two? sorry noob questions with this stuff
Also i think you are right about the right motor not getting enough power because come to think of it i have seen the right side of the roof struggle a few times, kind of like when you lift a heavy weight and your arm shakes. I feel like the roof partially goes back and the rest of the way it just drops because of its weight. Also when i said it fidgets after pressing switch while it sits in trunk, i think that was from one side trying to lift. I couldn't see clearly however because i was the one pressing switch so i will get someone else to press while i watch
also thanks for the link to the motor.... I have seen it, it was visible after taking the rear right panel off.. i wonder how easy it is to change
I will try moving roof this weekend and get my hands on the multimeter.. will post my findings
thank you very much !
Last edited by 416tt; 07-11-16 at 12:48 PM.