SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Roof Problem

Old 08-09-16, 11:07 AM
  #76  
Harold57
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bimmer, I find it interesting that you are now getting different readings. In posts 64 & 67, the left side was 6Ω and the right side was 1Ω. Now you are reading just the opposite, just different values (left side 1Ω & right side 3Ω).
Old 08-09-16, 02:07 PM
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416tt
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Hi Harold,`

first time i think i think was doing something wrong as it took me a while to figure out pins .. my right side has the issue but first time i was testing i was getting 001 on right side and 006 on left which wasnt right..

so my good initial 2000ohm test showed 001 right side (sometimes 002) and left side 001
for 200ohm test i got 1.1 left and 1.4 ish on right

the current through all wires is 000 from one end to other

and the positive and negative at the motor end show: 003 right and 001 left
Old 08-19-16, 10:24 AM
  #78  
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I had bad luck just as yours Tarheel, my motor came in with assembly half broken

From what I heard, it's the brushes in these motors that go bad which could be my intermittent or weak connection issue. I'll open this motor once I get another.

Good news is this motor/gear assembly is very easy to change. I must find another new motor
Old 08-19-16, 10:46 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by bimmer416
I had bad luck just as yours Tarheel, my motor came in with assembly half broken

From what I heard, it's the brushes in these motors that go bad which could be my intermittent or weak connection issue. I'll open this motor once I get another.

Good news is this motor/gear assembly is very easy to change. I must find another new motor
you could take the motor to a alternator, starter, dynamo repair shop. I've taken electric motors to those places before. Its always been very reasonable too.
Old 08-19-16, 11:02 AM
  #80  
DshngDaryl
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Originally Posted by bimmer416

Good news is this motor/gear assembly is very easy to change. I must find another new motor
Can you go over some basic steps on how to do this? I was actually planning on doing it this weekend.
Old 08-19-16, 02:07 PM
  #81  
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These kind of places can fix them for way less than a new one . You basically have a new motor after they get done with it unlike a used motor.http://www.mikeselectricmotors.com/
Old 08-20-16, 09:29 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by bimmer416
I had bad luck just as yours Tarheel, my motor came in with assembly half broken

From what I heard, it's the brushes in these motors that go bad which could be my intermittent or weak connection issue. I'll open this motor once I get another.

Good news is this motor/gear assembly is very easy to change. I must find another new motor
Sorry to hear that. If they send you a replacement: Ask them to remove the motor/gear assembly (three bolts) before they package & ship it. That assembly sticks out like a sore thumb from the brackets---so it's no wonder why the gear-box gets broken in transit,--no matter how much bubble-wrap they use...
Old 08-20-16, 09:49 AM
  #83  
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...also, for what it's worth: the motor is attached to the gear assembly with a few bolts,... so you may be able to take your new motor, and attach it to your old gear assembly on the existing bracket.
Old 08-20-16, 11:46 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by DashingDar
Can you go over some basic steps on how to do this? I was actually planning on doing it this weekend.
Hi DashingDar,


1) is your roof functional at all? if Yes use the switch to move the roof, let trunk lift, let roof move to trunk and let package tray stay up (this is must) and then stop and disconnect battery ....... If No then disconnect battery from the start and manually move roof
2) remove seats, head rests, wind deflector,
3) remove door sills and disconnect the wire from the clip so it doesnt get pulled.
4) Remove rear side panels i believe its 4 screws on the inside of car and 1 screw and clip behind package tray (now because this is large and is held by seat belts and gets in the way.. i removed the 3 bolts to split the bigger section of this panel from the top, makes it easier)
5) disconnect motor connectors
6) there are 3 hex screws which need to be opened and the motor should come right off with the gear assembly (now i dont know if a wrench can fit in there as i have not tried, but there is room)

i will post some pics for when i do it, otherwise just post here if you need any help.

Originally Posted by Coleroad
These kind of places can fix them for way less than a new one . You basically have a new motor after they get done with it unlike a used motor.http://www.mikeselectricmotors.com/
Thanks Colerad, I am going to call some local shops tomorrow and see what they can do!

Originally Posted by TarheelNic
Sorry to hear that. If they send you a replacement: Ask them to remove the motor/gear assembly (three bolts) before they package & ship it. That assembly sticks out like a sore thumb from the brackets---so it's no wonder why the gear-box gets broken in transit,--no matter how much bubble-wrap they use...
Thanks TarheelNic, you are exactly right, thats what i was thinking and thats exactly what happened.. pretty stupid i say because that arm is very heavy.. he is going to try and claim money from the shippers, and then refund me hopefully.

Originally Posted by TarheelNic
...also, for what it's worth: the motor is attached to the gear assembly with a few bolts,... so you may be able to take your new motor, and attach it to your old gear assembly on the existing bracket.
I actually opened the motor and it looks like the cover just comes off but the brushes and terminal/brushes/springs of motor is attached to assembly.. i also realized you gotta be very careful when opening motor because you gotta hold the armature down while you take cover off because the brushes are touching commutator and end up breaking from i guess the bearing below when armature is pulled (because of the strong magnets).. so correct way would be to hold down armature, take cover off.... pull brushes apart and slide armature out.

second complication i noticed was there is a little metal ball that goes into the cover end of the armature... that ball is impossible to slide in with the armature as it comes out and sticks to the strong magnets

did you get a chance to open the one you received?

Last edited by 416tt; 08-20-16 at 11:50 PM.
Old 08-21-16, 02:28 PM
  #85  
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i didn't open the motor-housing. I just put the motor with the other spare parts I've purchased,--- and hoping I never need them.
The ebay seller did issue a refund.
Old 08-18-17, 01:12 PM
  #86  
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sorry guys I didn't get back on this but thanks to the individuals who helped me on this thread I was able to identify that my passenger roof motor is dying and the first motor i recieved was broken but I got another in mail.

It was the right side motor behind passenger quarter panel. I couldn't get any wrench or tool with torx bit to fit behind motor in the little gap (in red) so I used a tiny 1/4 wrench that held bit making a mini wrench and then used an extension socket as leverage to push since these bolts are really tight.

tool:
Roof Problem-1.jpg

got this tool in small gap:
Roof Problem-2.jpg

used wrench extension for leverage:
Roof Problem-3.jpg

3 torx screws, got them open. When your putting new motor in you might have to turn the gear for it to fit back in the spot correctly otherwise the screw holes wont match
Roof Problem-4.jpg
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