SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

Homelink "really" not working

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Old 07-09-15, 09:19 AM
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BoJonJovi
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Default Homelink "really" not working

My Homelink has stopped working. It is not a programming issue so I do not need help programming. No lights come on when button is pushed or when I reset it. No lights at all, nada. Fuse seems ok. Is there a relay or something simple I am missing. Again I do not need programming instructions. That is not the problem.
Old 07-09-15, 10:05 AM
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Bgw70
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Did you check the 7.5A Dome fuse?

It is located in the passenger side J-box, lower right floor.

Also check the 15A D/C Cut, located in the passenger side of the engine compartment, it is a covered rectangular box next to the battery.

Let me know how it goes!

Last edited by Bgw70; 07-09-15 at 10:27 AM.
Old 12-31-15, 10:52 PM
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Marrkk
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Default Same problem here -2006 SC430

I have the same problem, no Homelink light no matter what buttons I push. I don't see this problem resolved in this thread. I assume if the dome light fuse is out, neither of the dome lights adjacent to the Homelink button will light, correct? Both of mine work. What is the 15 amp D/C cut? I haven't found anything else not working.
Old 01-01-16, 09:31 AM
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Coleroad
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Not saying this is the problem, but I have seen this a number of times myself. When checking fuses I use a multimeter. Their have been a number of times the fuse looked fine, but in fact was not. It had blown not where it was designed to. It had blown where you could not see it. After a time or two of chasing my tail, and then coming to find out it was the fuse. I found this as the better method. Plus I could check a whole fuse block in a few minutes. Compared to pulling a fuse putting it back.

Just information from my experiences. Hope it will safe someone time in the future.
Old 01-01-16, 08:36 PM
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Marrkk
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Good suggestion. Had not started down the fuse checking path because as I understand it, the Homelink system shares a fuse with the dome lights. If so, the fact that they work negates the fuse being the problem. So I am looking for a confirmation of that as well as wondering what the earlier poster meant by the "15 amp d/c cut".
Old 01-01-16, 10:14 PM
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Marrkk
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"When all else fails, read the instructions". Just answered my own questions. From my owner's manual, page 236, 7.5 amp fuse number 4, "DOME" in the passenger side kick panel fuse box serves the "Interior light, Personal lights, Vanity lights, Foot lights, Ignition switch light, Trunk light, Antenna, Garage door opener system, Audio system". The 15 amp "D/C Cut" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box (page 234) protects the circuit that serves all components in "DOME" as well as three other circuits. The upshot is that if either of these fuses were blown or faulty, there would be many other things not working besides the garage door opener. So I have to look elsewhwere for the source of my problem.

Any suggestions?
Old 01-02-16, 04:10 AM
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Bgw70
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Okay Marrkk, I will seriously try to help you. We need to figure out if your home link is bad...

First, are you a new car owner or have you had the car for awhile and the home link was working just fine?

Second, have you tried to reset/erase the home link?
If not, hold down the TWO OUTSIDE BUTTONS for 20 seconds, if this works the light should start blinking.
The link below will take you to the owners manual procedure on page 173 (pdf page 14 of 15). I am sure you have already looked it up in your owners manual but just wanted to point it out.
http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/do.../sec_03-05.pdf

Last edited by Bgw70; 01-02-16 at 04:31 AM.
Old 01-02-16, 04:27 AM
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Bgw70
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Please answer both of my questions above to help me understand your situation better...

Let's move on to more complex troubleshooting...
Here is the circuit diagram, as you can see, it is very simple. It does not show the interior lights, they are on another page but you were correct when you stated earlier about the fuses...the fuses are good if your interior lights are illuminated.

If the erase procedure did not correct the problem, I would suggest you disconnect the battery for five minutes, then reconnect and try the home link again.

If it still is not working and you have the ability, lets move on...
Referring to the wiring diagram below, you need to check for 12VDC at pins 5 and ground.
If voltage is present, your home link is bad. The buttons may not be making good contact with the little circuit board.

Old 01-02-16, 04:43 PM
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Retroplay
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If you do need to get into the homelink unit, it is extremely easy to get to and open.

If we get to that point, I can provide some pictures since I have a spare unit here.
Old 01-03-16, 12:54 AM
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Marrkk
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I bought the car three week ago from the second owner. It's been serviced exclusively by the selling dealer (even battery and tires!) and another nearby dealer and I have all the records.

I had tried the reset procedure before, and I had read the info (it's on page 174 in my manual). I just tried again, holding the outside buttons (1 and 3) down for 30 seconds (twice) to no avail.

I've texted the PO asking if he had problems with the system. There is nothing I can find in the service records indicating the dealer was notified of any problems with the system, which is strange since both POs seemed to be very conscientious about having every recommended maintenance done exactly on schedule.

What things does the car have to re-learn if the battery is disconnected, and do I have to do anything to facilitate the process? I don't see anything about radio codes, unlike my BMWs and (former) Porsche,
Old 01-03-16, 12:55 AM
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Marrkk
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And thanks so much for offering your help!
Old 01-03-16, 02:09 AM
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Bgw70
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The radio has no codes to enter, just remove one of the battery terminals for five minutes...reattach and try the home link reset procedure again.

If no go, you will either need to check for voltage at pin 5 and ground or purchase a used one from eBay or a new one from Lexus.
Old 01-03-16, 02:22 AM
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Marrkk
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From the wiring diagram, it appears the the Homelink unit has a pigtail with a violet hot wire and a black-striped white ground wire terminating in a male (pin) connector, that plugs into a female connector on a similarly-colored pigtail emanating from Junction Connector J9 (the plug/socket being labeled connector II1). J9 is thus the source of both power and ground for the Homelink unit. I should be looking for 12 volts at female terminal 22 of connector II1 and a good ground at terminal 12 of the same connector. Is my interpretation of the diagram correct?
Old 01-03-16, 03:05 AM
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Bgw70
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You could do all of that but I would just remove the garage door unit and check for voltage on pin five of the connector that attaches to the opener.

The screws are located in the light housings. One screw on each side if I remember correctly.

Be very careful when removing the plastics light covers. If you use a small screwdriver put tape on the end of the blade.
Old 01-03-16, 03:10 AM
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Bgw70
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Everything you said is correct but just remove the light/Homelink assembly first...

BTW, did you disconnect the battery?


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