Roof doesn't retract into trunk
#3
When the tray isn't in place (or valet switch in wrong position, or other common sources to this problem), the light blinks red. According to the OP, and my own problem, there is no light at all, it just plays dead. In my case this happens around one out of every 20 times or so, and it can anywhere from minutes to a day or to to "fix" itself.
#4
If it were the tray, I think you'd get the red flashing light. I'd check the "valet switch" in the glove compartment. I think that will match your "no top move, no flash light" symptoms but I'm not exactly sure. Beyond that, I agree that disconnecting the battery to reset the computer is a good idea.
#5
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Thank you all for your help. It was amazing how quickly the responses came in. I'm out the door to try them now. Wish me luck because it top down weather today. PS. I'll let you know how I make out
THX......... ronchaby
THX......... ronchaby
#6
I took possession of my 2002 Indigo Ink Pearl from the shipping trucker in the dark at 6:00a Thursday morning. I couldn't resist trying a roof cycle. She opened with the bing sound when finished and she closed but the light would not go off. I tried opening and closing with no change. So, I drove home 40 miles with it binging the whole trip. My first stop back in town was to wash off the road grime. My second was home and onto CL. From what I read, I checked the trunk tray fitting into its slot. Took it out and slid it back in. The roof issue went away. I've since cycled the roof maybe 10 times without any issues. The truck ride probably rattled the tray fitting. Thank you CL!!!!
#7
I was not as lucky as I might have hoped. My problem has reoccurred several times, but a bit differently than the other guys on this thread. The roof stops and my light stays on. It's happened with the roof apparently fully closed but the chime won't sound and the light won't go out. Of course, my trunk also won't open. It also did it on the open cycle. The roof then won't respond to either open or close. I then try shutting down the car and restarting it. Either that works or I've waited long enough for the issue to fix itself, because I'm able to continue with the roof operation.
I have the battery disconnected right now and letting the car sit for 15 minutes with no power. Several of you suggested that. So, I'm giving it a try.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to talk with the Lexus service department to see if they know what to do. Taking the car in to Lexus is a 130 mile drive each way. I'd hate to have an appointment, drive there and just be told they have to have the part fail to find what needs to be fixed.
I'm a bit concerned that a failure could happen and I'll have to drive over the mountains with the top down to rainy Seattle. I'd have make sure the weather will be clear and use ear plugs to block the chime.
I have the battery disconnected right now and letting the car sit for 15 minutes with no power. Several of you suggested that. So, I'm giving it a try.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to talk with the Lexus service department to see if they know what to do. Taking the car in to Lexus is a 130 mile drive each way. I'd hate to have an appointment, drive there and just be told they have to have the part fail to find what needs to be fixed.
I'm a bit concerned that a failure could happen and I'll have to drive over the mountains with the top down to rainy Seattle. I'd have make sure the weather will be clear and use ear plugs to block the chime.
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#8
I was not as lucky as I might have hoped. My problem has reoccurred several times, but a bit differently than the other guys on this thread. The roof stops and my light stays on. It's happened with the roof apparently fully closed but the chime won't sound and the light won't go out. Of course, my trunk also won't open. It also did it on the open cycle. The roof then won't respond to either open or close. I then try shutting down the car and restarting it. Either that works or I've waited long enough for the issue to fix itself, because I'm able to continue with the roof operation.
I have the battery disconnected right now and letting the car sit for 15 minutes with no power. Several of you suggested that. So, I'm giving it a try.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to talk with the Lexus service department to see if they know what to do. Taking the car in to Lexus is a 130 mile drive each way. I'd hate to have an appointment, drive there and just be told they have to have the part fail to find what needs to be fixed.
I'm a bit concerned that a failure could happen and I'll have to drive over the mountains with the top down to rainy Seattle. I'd have make sure the weather will be clear and use ear plugs to block the chime.
I have the battery disconnected right now and letting the car sit for 15 minutes with no power. Several of you suggested that. So, I'm giving it a try.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to talk with the Lexus service department to see if they know what to do. Taking the car in to Lexus is a 130 mile drive each way. I'd hate to have an appointment, drive there and just be told they have to have the part fail to find what needs to be fixed.
I'm a bit concerned that a failure could happen and I'll have to drive over the mountains with the top down to rainy Seattle. I'd have make sure the weather will be clear and use ear plugs to block the chime.
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Thank you everyone who offered suggestions. I thought for sure disconnecting the battery to reboot the computer was going work but no luck. The thing that bothers me is there is no response or signal no click, no whrrrrrrr no light I want to pick it up and shake it slap back down on the road and say" there go down or I'll send you to my brother in Manitoba in November they don't need convertibles there that time of year. This can't be that rare.........can it?
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Thank you everyone who offered suggestions. I thought for sure disconnecting the battery to reboot the computer was going work but no luck. The thing that bothers me is there is no response or signal no click, no whrrrrrrr no light I want to pick it up and shake it slap back down on the road and say" there go down or I'll send you to my brother in Manitoba in November they don't need convertibles there that time of year. This can't be that rare.........can it?
#12
Just to make sure we understand the problem:
RONCHABY: You are saying that your top is "100% completely dead." No movement, no lights, no chime, no nothing.
This does sound like a fuse. If it were something where the top computer was getting a error, then the red light would flash. Resetting the computer (removing the battery cable) is not the solution if there is no error, so I retract my suggestion about that. I'm not sure whether the valet switch in the wrong position throws a flashing light when you try to move the top, but I think it does. Still something to check.
RLP1949: You report symptoms that at the conclusion of the cycle, the red light stays on and when you drive, the chime sounds. Is it correct that the top moves through the whole cycle and your problem only occurs at "full close?" But you also said that once it happens, the roof won't move at all. Could you clarify your symptoms? Specifically at what point in the process does the problem occur? When the problem occurs, what are the symptoms? What will/won't the top do? What is the status of the light and chime at that point?
On top close, If the rear windows are up, then that means that your top to windshield latch is successful because the car will not put the rear windows up until it that operation is reported as successful.
Your problem is probably a sensor, but with more facts we might be able to help.
RONCHABY: You are saying that your top is "100% completely dead." No movement, no lights, no chime, no nothing.
This does sound like a fuse. If it were something where the top computer was getting a error, then the red light would flash. Resetting the computer (removing the battery cable) is not the solution if there is no error, so I retract my suggestion about that. I'm not sure whether the valet switch in the wrong position throws a flashing light when you try to move the top, but I think it does. Still something to check.
RLP1949: You report symptoms that at the conclusion of the cycle, the red light stays on and when you drive, the chime sounds. Is it correct that the top moves through the whole cycle and your problem only occurs at "full close?" But you also said that once it happens, the roof won't move at all. Could you clarify your symptoms? Specifically at what point in the process does the problem occur? When the problem occurs, what are the symptoms? What will/won't the top do? What is the status of the light and chime at that point?
On top close, If the rear windows are up, then that means that your top to windshield latch is successful because the car will not put the rear windows up until it that operation is reported as successful.
Your problem is probably a sensor, but with more facts we might be able to help.
#13
Johnny, I've held off replying because I did the battery disconnect. Since then, I've cycled the roof 6 times without any issues. I need a few more times before I draw any conclusions, but so far, so good.
Yes, in my case the light stayed on with no flashing and the roof would not move in either direction. I would say it's happened 5 times. On maybe two or three occasions the light stayed on but I would consider the roof mechanically closed. I think I could hear a noise in the vicinity of the roof mechanism when I'd press the button but no movement. I'm not sure I found a pattern to the problem and to the fix. On most of the occasions, I restarted the car and that seemed to let the button clear its head.
The first failure occurred in the early morning half-light when I got my car from the trucker. That was one of the closed-but-the-light-didn't-go-off episodes. I can't specifically recall what I tried at 5:30a, but nothing I tried moved the roof or stopped the light and I drove home 40 miles listening to chimes.
On two occasions, my finger slipped off the button and that was enough to cause the stall problem. The roof was in the middle of its operation.
Mr. Blister is correct that the manual does have a procedure for manually closing the roof. I have to confess it does not look like fun and the manual says you need two people to do it.
I'm not the best mechanic, but I agree that my symptoms suggest a sensor, the computer or a maybe an adjustment problem. I'm still hopeful the battery disconnect will do the trick.
Yes, in my case the light stayed on with no flashing and the roof would not move in either direction. I would say it's happened 5 times. On maybe two or three occasions the light stayed on but I would consider the roof mechanically closed. I think I could hear a noise in the vicinity of the roof mechanism when I'd press the button but no movement. I'm not sure I found a pattern to the problem and to the fix. On most of the occasions, I restarted the car and that seemed to let the button clear its head.
The first failure occurred in the early morning half-light when I got my car from the trucker. That was one of the closed-but-the-light-didn't-go-off episodes. I can't specifically recall what I tried at 5:30a, but nothing I tried moved the roof or stopped the light and I drove home 40 miles listening to chimes.
On two occasions, my finger slipped off the button and that was enough to cause the stall problem. The roof was in the middle of its operation.
Mr. Blister is correct that the manual does have a procedure for manually closing the roof. I have to confess it does not look like fun and the manual says you need two people to do it.
I'm not the best mechanic, but I agree that my symptoms suggest a sensor, the computer or a maybe an adjustment problem. I'm still hopeful the battery disconnect will do the trick.
#15
The top stopping abruptly does jar things a bit and maybe that was enough to put a sensor out of whack.
You can hear the trunk cover relays/switch in the trunk when you pull out the cover and drop it in the slots, I'd make absolutely sure that you think they are getting good connection without any play that could cause the cover to be seated, but the switch not engaged. It's a long shot but (1) its something you can do yourself; and (2) it costs nothing. It would seem that movement in that area is finished way before the end of the cycle, so it doesn't really fit your symptoms at all, especially since recycling the power often clears the fault..
As for closing the top manually, you are right that the instructions that come with the car are way complicated and involve two people, not a good thing. Below I've attached a link to the Lexus Service Bulletin that involves much easier one-person instructions.
Hopefully, your problem doesn't reappear. My experience with top faults is that they begin intermittent, then get worse. If you end up at the dealership please circle back and let us know what they say.
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