416tt

iTrader: (1)

NP Sir!

nicely done Rollaboy! .. wait so is the gen1 IS link shorter in length too then the Gen 2? Your link extended fully seems shorter then the one I have.. looks like you have air suspension.. are you able to raise/lower your sc fully without any problems with the link height?

btw are your brackets from an ISF as well?

thanks

Rollaboy

iTrader: (1)

The car is still hanging on the lift. Will check the air sus when i get time. Probably monday. I think the lenght of the adjustable links is about the same as the mevotec.

I use the oem sc430 brackets with the 17mm polyurethane for the isf. Fits perfect.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=121

416tt

iTrader: (1)

Oh ok was just asking as I guess it may help those with Air

and thank you, I wont need to get ISF brackets then!

Rollaboy

iTrader: (1)

Tested with the air sus and it works perfect :-)

Barcardi also wrote to me over PM and said i should get the isf brackets. But i don't see why i should. The sc430 oem brackets fits perfect with the superpro polyurethane bushing from figs. Just pick the 17mm and you are good to go.

ivanj

Platform: For Lexus SC430 2002 all stock shocks and springs. I shall upgrade the Rear Sway Bar only at this time: I am not going to polyurethane bushings.

So far I have these Lexus parts:

Part No. 48812-30400 - Bar, Stabilizer, RR - Quantity (1)
Part No. 48818-30180 - Bush, Stabilizer, RR - Quantity (2)

What to order next to finish the upgrade?

Question One: Do I (Re)use the stock SC 430 Stabilizer Bush Brackets? (From above posts I reckon the answer is Yes.)

Question Two: Do I use the 48830-30080 SC 430 Link Assy, RR Stabil - Quantity (2) end links OR do I change to the 48830-30090 ISF Endlinks?
(The geometry (length) here is important so I reckon the Lexus or equivalent Moog, etc. SC430 end links is the way to go.)

These questions may seem unnecessary given other's writings. However, time that has passed with the mods on cars above, I like to be careful and safe Thanks for your help!

PS
No criticism of other's great efforts.

ivanj

Just received all these parts. Having them installed on Wednesday. The parts shop looked at the sway bar and said it was powder coated so I am leaving it black. He reckoned the MOOG links will be also also.

digitatc

If your car is lowered (1in or so) , then use the IS/ISF links or equivalence. If not, use the original links. Using the ISF links with original height car will break it very fast.

ivanj

Yes, it is the stock height so I am using the stock SC 430 links.

digitatc

@ivanj
You might need to read this thread. Especially post #10.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...de-height.html

ivanj

From TXFM, to wit:
"There are a couple of other solutions:

To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.

The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok. "

My emphasis on the quoted post. I searched extensively but did not find this thread.

I will go to the hardware store or better the local race car parts store today and fabricate or purchase the sleeve named as "solution one."

Does the sleeve (otherwise a bushing) have to be flush with the ISF bar or can it stick out a bit?

"Then use threadlocker in the assembly." Do you put the threadlocker on the inside or outside of the sleeve, or both?

Should the sleeve be welded in instead of using threadlocker?

Should one get washers to supplement the sleeve or is the stock "end cap nuts" outside diameter large enough to go against the flat spot of the ISF bar with the larger hole? - This might increase the flat surface bearing area. Or does the sleeve eliminate the need for these nuts?

digitatc

1. Does the sleeve (otherwise a bushing) have to be flush with the ISF bar or can it stick out a bit?
Yes it should. I measured the thickness of the flat part on the swaybar last night, it's about 1/4in or 6mm.

2."Then use threadlocker in the assembly." Do you put the threadlocker on the inside or outside of the sleeve, or both?
Inside the sleeve. However it doesn't hurt to squeeze some extra for the outside. Personally I don't think it really matters. I prefer to use it on the nut part.

3. Should the sleeve be welded in instead of using threadlocker?
If you weld it, you won't be able to re-use the swaybar if you ever drop the car and use the bar with the new ISF/IS links.

4. Should one get washers to supplement the sleeve or is the stock "end cap nuts" outside diameter large enough to go against the flat spot of the ISF bar with the larger hole? - This might increase the flat surface bearing area. Or does the sleeve eliminate the need for these nuts?
I don't think we need extra washers. Last time I looked, the nut is bigger than the hole on the bar.

FYI, I haven't installed mine yet but probably do so this weekend since I have all the parts and paint has been dried.

ivanj

[QUOTE=digitatc;10544395]1. Does the sleeve (otherwise a bushing) have to be flush with the ISF bar or can it stick out a bit?
Yes it should. I measured the thickness of the flat part on the swaybar last night, it's about 1/4in or 6mm.

Do you mean it should be flush?

digitatc

Yes, flush, It should be the same as the thickness on the flat part of the sway bar near the hole.

ivanj

Went by my local speed shop to pick up my MOOG sb links. I asked about the sleeve in the post above (Thanks digitatc.). They said this plastic piece will work fine - cut it to length, I'll have enough for a second go round. If they were metric they would be perfect. If anyone wants the description I'll get it but just look at the bins where they have nuts and fasteners. They said service life should be the same as the links themselves.


Little over 1" long - almost a perfect snug fit inside the 13mm ISF sway bar hole. One wrap of electrical tape should do it. Long enough for a second set!

Inside diameter is snug on the stock 10mm SC 430 MOOG sway bar link stud threads.

digitatc

Please let us know how it goes. Obviously, plastic is much easier to cut than steel. I got a steel sleeve and still figuring which is the best way to cut it.