Oil Change - filter removal?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Oil Change - filter removal?
What materials are needed to do an oil change, as in how much oil filter number, etc.
Also how much did you guys pay for your oil changes and where.
Also how much did you guys pay for your oil changes and where.
#3
I go above & beyond the required maintenance. I run Total (toetell) full synthetic oil and change the oil at 50% of the recommended mileage (6-7k). It's not an easy oil to find. The shop (just outside of San Diego) I go to charges $92 with new filter.
Best regards,
Dan
#4
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
I use Pennzoil Synthetic and change every 5000 miles. For filter I use Royal Purple and change every 10000 miles.
Get a jack, lift the car. Drain the old oil, put bolt back in. Put new oil. Take out under-body plastic, unscrew oil filter, screw new one in. Drive the car.
I don't trust anyone else doing an oil change ever since those Jiffy Lube type of shop stripped my oil pan.
Get a jack, lift the car. Drain the old oil, put bolt back in. Put new oil. Take out under-body plastic, unscrew oil filter, screw new one in. Drive the car.
I don't trust anyone else doing an oil change ever since those Jiffy Lube type of shop stripped my oil pan.
#7
$92 for an oil change?
WOW! I change the oil myself.
One time I got lazy and took it to a place to take advantage of a coupon, different car.
When it was time to start the car, one of the guys forgot to put the cap back on in the engine compartment and oil splattered all over the engine, mind you I was watching the whole time.
I've taken cars to jiffy lube and I hate all the stuff they offer, also seen people pay for unnecessary stuff and just laugh.
Crazy how some of you guys would pay to do a real basic maintenance. Give me a call I'll take your money.
Whatever makes your hair blowback.
WOW! I change the oil myself.
One time I got lazy and took it to a place to take advantage of a coupon, different car.
When it was time to start the car, one of the guys forgot to put the cap back on in the engine compartment and oil splattered all over the engine, mind you I was watching the whole time.
I've taken cars to jiffy lube and I hate all the stuff they offer, also seen people pay for unnecessary stuff and just laugh.
Crazy how some of you guys would pay to do a real basic maintenance. Give me a call I'll take your money.
Whatever makes your hair blowback.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Oil, 5W-30, Synthetic preferred, but conventional is fine.
Oil filter, I use Toyota 90915-YZZD3, just paid $44 for a case of 10.
Drain pan.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
#11
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Hi Guys, SOS. I have a 2005 SC 430. I followed all the steps and am attempting the oil change. My oil filter will not budge, and I punctured a hole in it. I tried 3 different wrenches, and even got the special toyota oil wrench tool as well. Now, oil is dripping down the filter, and I cannot even drive it to the dealer. Any suggestions?
Your help is very much appreciated.
Your help is very much appreciated.
#12
Hi Guys, SOS. I have a 2005 SC 430. I followed all the steps and am attempting the oil change. My oil filter will not budge, and I punctured a hole in it. I tried 3 different wrenches, and even got the special toyota oil wrench tool as well. Now, oil is dripping down the filter, and I cannot even drive it to the dealer. Any suggestions?
Your help is very much appreciated.
Your help is very much appreciated.
it happens to the best of us.
if you have a puncture a hole in it, is the hole going thru the middle from one side to the other side? I've done that and try turning it with a long rod/screwdriver by grabing both ends of the rod, it will tare the metal of the filter, but hopefully the filter will turn before it tares in half.
if it tares in half, use a strap wrench or channel locks to grab the edge of the filter and turn it loose.
Good luck.
#13
Lead Lap
Try the strap wrench or a pipe wrench before running a screwdriver through it. Roho is right, the screwdriver will just tear right through that thin metal.
#14
Moderator
Make sure you are turning the filter from right to left, meaning in an anti-clockwise direction to loosen it. The best filter removal tool I have ever used, when a filter case is stuck, and or starting to tear, is an oversize pair of channel lock pliers. They work great in getting good grip on the filter case from virtually any angle and providing adequate leverage to loosen the case. Make sure to get at least 16.5 to 20 inch pair. I have a 20 inch pair that is 45 years old. Bigger is better in this application. See link below for illustration and choose larger size. If you need it immediately HD or Lowes likely stock these.
I do not recommend putting a hole in the filter case and using a screw driver or some other rod like tool as some suggest. Modern oil filter cases and internals are much thinner than years ago. As a result that method can end up tearing right thru the case on a severely stuck filter - making it even harder to remove and more of a mess.
When you do put the new filter back on, clean the metal oil filter gasket mating surface beforehand with a clean paper towel. Make sure the metal surface where the oil filter gasket spins on and seals, is completely clean, smooth and grit free. Then hand spin on the filter and when it gets hand tight and seated, give it a firm medium-full strength twist, maybe half to 3/4 turn or so, with hand strength only. In most cases, no need to use a tool or a wrench to tighten an oil filter - assuming normal grip (no need for superman grip), firm hand strength is plenty to compress the rubber or silicone gasket and seal the oil filter.
I do not recommend putting a hole in the filter case and using a screw driver or some other rod like tool as some suggest. Modern oil filter cases and internals are much thinner than years ago. As a result that method can end up tearing right thru the case on a severely stuck filter - making it even harder to remove and more of a mess.
When you do put the new filter back on, clean the metal oil filter gasket mating surface beforehand with a clean paper towel. Make sure the metal surface where the oil filter gasket spins on and seals, is completely clean, smooth and grit free. Then hand spin on the filter and when it gets hand tight and seated, give it a firm medium-full strength twist, maybe half to 3/4 turn or so, with hand strength only. In most cases, no need to use a tool or a wrench to tighten an oil filter - assuming normal grip (no need for superman grip), firm hand strength is plenty to compress the rubber or silicone gasket and seal the oil filter.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 06-17-18 at 07:09 AM.