New '03 SC430 Owner!
#16
I was talking about the button on the console, which I removed when I was pulling the radio out. You need to take out the head unit to inspect the door (tracks, motors, etc). You were holding the circuit board for the switch.
However, I seem to remember several (2 or 3) fuses that control the audio system. They are not even in the same fuse box. You might do a search on the forum for where they are. One will lead to that circuit, but I am sure it hosts a number of other devices as well. Sorry, I don't have a better lead for you on that.
However, I seem to remember several (2 or 3) fuses that control the audio system. They are not even in the same fuse box. You might do a search on the forum for where they are. One will lead to that circuit, but I am sure it hosts a number of other devices as well. Sorry, I don't have a better lead for you on that.
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I have illuminated door sills?!?!! WHY DID NO ONE TELL ME THIS? Hahaha.
I am so happy to announce that I have resolved the problem! (and fallen in love with new features I didn't know I had - under dash lights too!? Okay!) Thanks to a little chat with IcEnPinKi earlier today I realized I had homelink and tried to connect to my garage door. When I realized that none of the dome lights, vanity lights, nor homelink were working I knew the issue was not isolated as I had started to believe. Sure enough, I popped open the passenger side kick-panel fuse-box and pulled the 7.5a dome fuse just to find it blown open. Woohoo!
Tinted the rear window as well... here's some visual updates from today's fun:
I am so happy to announce that I have resolved the problem! (and fallen in love with new features I didn't know I had - under dash lights too!? Okay!) Thanks to a little chat with IcEnPinKi earlier today I realized I had homelink and tried to connect to my garage door. When I realized that none of the dome lights, vanity lights, nor homelink were working I knew the issue was not isolated as I had started to believe. Sure enough, I popped open the passenger side kick-panel fuse-box and pulled the 7.5a dome fuse just to find it blown open. Woohoo!
Tinted the rear window as well... here's some visual updates from today's fun:
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Oh, does anyone want my OEM ML 6x9s? They need new surrounds but they are yours for the price of a box, shipping, and a gallon of gas. Haha. Also, coming next monday I will have a spare drivers side ecru door panel. It's pre-drilled for a Lexus logo projector but will need the window seal to be replaced if you want it to look nice. The current window seal ripped and was repaired with glue, but it's not as pretty as I would like so it has to go. I just found the strip for $35 on eBay so it could be a cheap way to get a nice door. First $50 plus shipping takes it. If you are interested I will send you pics. Doesn't include switches or handle, obviously.
#19
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Ah, haha, thanks tromly... I think I had built this car out a thousand times in my mind prior to finding her - so once I picked it up I was pretty eager to get to business! She now has the tint completed, a JL8W7 with 1600w going to it, and a couple other things in the works. I clay bar'ed it last night also, and just applied the first coat of cleaner wax ten minutes ago.
I now have a spare ecru drivers side door panel for sale - (some damage to the weather strip - but I just saw a replacement strip for $35 on eBay the other week.)
As well as a stock ML subwoofer, with deteriorated foam surround as so many others seem to have encountered. I'm not planning on putting it back in so if anybody wants it along with the connecting harness and grill - it's for sale. I can post pics of both items later if anyone is interested.
Next up will be coil overs, wheels, tires, alignment, and I'm thinking about maybe even wrapping the 'wood' pieces with some black 3M vinyl... eeek. haha
I now have a spare ecru drivers side door panel for sale - (some damage to the weather strip - but I just saw a replacement strip for $35 on eBay the other week.)
As well as a stock ML subwoofer, with deteriorated foam surround as so many others seem to have encountered. I'm not planning on putting it back in so if anybody wants it along with the connecting harness and grill - it's for sale. I can post pics of both items later if anyone is interested.
Next up will be coil overs, wheels, tires, alignment, and I'm thinking about maybe even wrapping the 'wood' pieces with some black 3M vinyl... eeek. haha
#23
Scclique since you are jumping into the mods with both feet, have you upgraded the SMD LEDs in your instrument cluster? I found the OEM 3528 SMDs in the cluster do not give off enough light and are a bit yellowish. With that said, I changed out my LEDs with 5050 SMDs with cool white LEDs. Yes, the mod is very involved and I wouldn't recommend this for everyone. The mod requires the removal and complete dismantling of the instrument cluster. Here is a photo of what the LEDs look like on the cluster's circuit board.
#25
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Oh very cool! Thanks for sharing DarthSid! I will have to compare your pic to my OEM one tomorrow. Is it brighter while driving at night? Can we adjust the brightness of the dash? I forget now, haha. On a side note, car is looking great now! Will have to post some new pics soon. Looking forward to more fun projects with you guys!
PS. Your cluster looks great, and that ODO reading sure is nice as well!
PS. Your cluster looks great, and that ODO reading sure is nice as well!
#26
Thanks.....
Yes, the dimmer works just fine. My first go was like for like with the 3528 SMDs and discovered little or no difference with the OEM LEDs. I decided to take a gamble and go with the 5050 SMDs and that did the trick. The 5050 LEDs are like three LEDs in one. I also built a LED tester to ensure the LEDs would light, and verify polarity. BTW, before experimenting on the cluster, I purchased a used cluster from ebay to conduct my experiment just as a precaution. Is also upgraded the LEDs on door controls and replaced the stock LEDs with 3528s which I read on a thread a while back.
Yes, the dimmer works just fine. My first go was like for like with the 3528 SMDs and discovered little or no difference with the OEM LEDs. I decided to take a gamble and go with the 5050 SMDs and that did the trick. The 5050 LEDs are like three LEDs in one. I also built a LED tester to ensure the LEDs would light, and verify polarity. BTW, before experimenting on the cluster, I purchased a used cluster from ebay to conduct my experiment just as a precaution. Is also upgraded the LEDs on door controls and replaced the stock LEDs with 3528s which I read on a thread a while back.
#27
Here is a photo of the instrument cluster circuit board as it would face the driver. There are eight (8) LEDs used in the cluster for the back lighting. Two to the left for the tach, two in the center for the speedometer, two below for the ODO reading and two to the right for the temp, fuel and shift setting gauges.