ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

So I recently purchased a Second Gen (Remote + Top) LuxLink from a forum member, and am incredibly happy with the results. I had it installed in my hometown in Oklahoma by a guy that had a lot of experience with all types of remote starters. The LuxLink worked great all summer long, but now that I'm in Chicago where the remote start is most useful for the cold mornings, I've noticed that on especially cold days that the remote start won't properly start the car. It responds properly and I can hear the cranking sound but the engine just doesn't "turn over." On slightly warmer days it works perfectly without fail. I thought it might be the battery, so I took it to AutoZone for a battery, alternator, and starter check. They said everything was perfect and that the battery was at 98%. Not sure what else could be leading to my problems. I called Steve at Luxury Motorworks in California and he's not really sure either, as he said he just programs the LuxLink units. By the way the car starts perfectly every time i use the key in ignition to start. Anyone have any suggestions? .

JohnnyCake

This is confusing. Cranking and turning over are pretty much the same thing. Are you saying that the engine just doesn't start?

Since the car can start on warmer days, my guess is that it is the length of time the LuxLink is cranking/turning over the engine is insufficient.

How long does it try? On a cold day, if you tried manually that long would it start?

I believe there is a way to manually change the crank time in the LuxLink, although I think it is also supposed to adjust automatically (e.g. try longer when it doesn't start).

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. The newer model (3rd Gen) of LuxLink has the retry start option if the engine doesn't start on the first attempt. Mine does not, as Steve explained to me. Also to answer your question, that's what I thought also; that the crank time was too short. But on normal start up the engine will "catch" and start up. When I say "crank," I mean it to mean the engine is making the sound but the engine never actually fires up (turn over). Like the sound a car makes when you have a dead battery. "click, click, click." I've tried to time the interval of the LuxLink attempt and my own manual key-in-ignition and the car will always start with the -key-in-ignition technique even when the LuxLink won't successfully start. I've even tried to run the car for about 10 minutes. Turn the car off and try to restart with the LuxLink and no go still. I was thinking maybe spark plugs or something? If there is a way to manually increased the LuxLink crank time, I will try it. Any advice?

PS. If was back in Oklahoma I would take it back to my installer to ask his opinion but that's just out of the question at the moment. Thought I would follow other options, if any arise. I've also tried various things to "boost" battery power for a stronger crank power including turning off the headlights, radio, heat, etc. No dice.

mrblister

You are saying the engine cranks but it will not fire up. Could it be that the hidden key with the chip for the immobilizer has moved a way from the ignition antenna . Try putting your actual key near your ignition switch and then try and remote start it with your other key. You can just hold your valet key near the ignition lock and then with your master key try remote start again. It is possible that the chip you had hidden in the luxlink immobilizer box may have moved and is to far away from the antenna , This make sense because you say you have no problem starting the car with the key turning the ignition manually . If my little test proves you can now remote start then you need to look at the placement of the hidden immobilizer chip

Have you had any keys programmed recently . If so you are only allowed to have four keys programmed at a time. If a key was recently programmed then it will delete one of the keys priviously
programed. That key that may have been deleted could be the chip in the immobilizer box . Did you
talk with Steve about this possibility.

FlopTop04

On a really cold day, while the car is cold, sit inside the SC430 and try the remote start. Watch the Security Light by the side view mirror control switch. You will probably see the Security Light flashing while the LuxLink is cranking the starter.

Basically, this means the SC430 is not detecting a valid transponder chip. This is not un-common with the Key-In-the-Box universal transponder bypass module used with the LuxLink in very cold weather, if the antenna loop is not perfectly positioned over the cars ignition switch.

While it could confuse the car, when it won't start with the LuxLink, try holding a working key head ( head area ) close to the ignition switch. If the car now starts with the LuxLink, you can be pretty sure that is the problem. Of course, if the car sees two different transponder chips at the same time it might get confused and refuse to start.

That was one of the reasons I chose to use a "Data" style bypass module with my remote start install.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the insight everyone! I will def try those tips as soon as I have some time. Thanks again. I will post the results soon.

JohnnyCake

That's a good thought, but I don't think the symptoms fit that possible diagnosis -- the LuxLink can start the car on a warm day, but not a cold day.

OP: There is definitely a way to change the crank time manually -- you'll need to get the instructions from LuxuryMotorworks site. I recall that it is a pretty easy programming step.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

I haven't had any keys reprogrammed. Still using the OEM key and the wallet key transponder is in the remote starter unit. So after fooling around with it some more today here's the update: This morning with a temp of 17 degrees, the remote start worked properly from a distance of about 50 yards via a window. Now at about 30 degrees, on my way home from work after driving for 15 minutes I stopped at a Sports Authority. On coming out I tried the remote start while walking up to the car at about 50 yards also. No luck. Just the crank sound but no ignition. I manually started it and came home and retested it by actually sitting in the car, holding the key right next to the steering column near the key hole and had the same problem... crank sounds, no ignition. It's just so odd. Sometimes the engine will catch and start up and other times it won't. Now I'm starting to think that it's not a temperature thing but a crank time issue. As for manually changing the crank time, Steve had previously told me it's not possible on this model. And from my understanding this model of LuxLink is the data unit made by XpressKit. I've left a message with Steve to confirm that this model doesn't have adjustable crank time. If anyone knows how to adjust it, please let me know. That seems like it's the problem to me after today's tests. I feel that I have to hold the ignition about 1-2 milliseconds longer than the LuxLink's crank time for the engine to start.

UPDATE: Just spoke with Steve and he did confirm via photo of the unit that my model is not the one that will allow me to adjust the crank time. However, after explaining the situation to him, he recommended the problem could possibly be the black antenna wire from the LuxLink module not being close enough to the key hole. This is another option I will explore once the weather clears up and gives me a more hospitable environment to work outside or worst case to take my car to a remote start installer in the area.

mrblister

I have generation 2 luxlink the model that was supposed to be the last version untill steve did a one time run of about 50 units. The last gen he had corrected some bugs that were timing issues. When your installer hooked it up do you know if he ran the wire to the hood pin or just grounded it, The hood pin wire's purpose was to make the remote start not work if the hood was open. In case a mechanic was working on the car and was unaware of the luxlink and if someone pressed the buttons he could easily be injured . I know to run the wire to the hood pin is a huge pain in the A-- Many installers skip it and ground the wire. It seems that you have an erratic problem. When mine was installed I remember that steve told me the first time you try to start the car with the luxlink it learns how much time the car needs to start the engine. It was a one time sequence that was automatic. There also included with the kit was a press button switch that had a connector on it that plugs into the luxlink module . The purpose of this is to adjust some things . How long the car runs after remote start [ Default was 5 min ] There was also a way to adjust the crank time. I would call steve and ask him. Do you know what version of luxlink you have .

Buddy

JohnnyCake

That's what I was saying in the first place. In colder weather, the engine cranks more slowly meaning longer crank time necessary before engine start.

Buddy makes a good suggestion to call Steve and re-confirm that there is no way to manually adjust the crank time or learned crank time. While later models may have been automatic, I though all were at least manually adjustable. If I were you, I'd call again and make absolutely sure that there is no way to adjust.

Since you are 1 - 2 milliseconds from success, it sounds like a new battery might solve the problem. Yes, your current battery checks out OK, but a new battery may have better CCA to give you more revolutions during the cranking time that you have, meaning a possible start.

Besides, having your old battery in the trunk is a good thing for Chicago winters. I once dated a woman there and would not wish those winters on my worst enemy.

Harold57

JohnnyCake, actually that could fit. Since there are electronic components involved in the RF link between the key and the receiver, temperature will affect their performance. Passive components (and some active components) are affected by temperature in such a way as their basic characteristics will change over the temperature range. Resistor and capacitor values for example, will change over temperature and depending on just what type they are will determine whether their values will go up or down (and how much they will change) with dropping temperature. It is semi difficult to keep an RF signal accurate over the full "industrial temperature range" of -40°C to +85°C, which is why many products are limited to an office environmental temperature range of 0 to 50°C.

Along the same lines, components used in timing circuits are probably even more susceptible to temperature changes. So Shawn may have a double whammy working against him with the key and antenna and then the timing for how long the LL attempts to crank the car.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. As I said, I talked to Steve who had me run a "test." He said that on a day that it doesn't start, to sit in the car and press the triple lock button sequence and then put the key in the keyhole but to leave it at "off." This proved to start the car every time and thus he said that it sounds like it might possibly be that the black antenna wire that sends the transponder info to the keyhole is not close enough to the sensor. This would indicate moving the wire closer to the keyhole. I took it to a local audio guy who wanted to charge $75 just to take a look at it. I don't mind taking a crack at it myself if anyone can instruct me on how to remove the dressing panel that surrounds the telescopic steering column. Any photos or step by step directions would be really helpful. I really want to avoid damaging any of the mechanical parts of the telescoping steering column or destroying the panels. Thanks in advance!

mrblister

There is a trim ring around the ignition switch. It will pull off and you might be able to see the black wire and pull it closer to the ignition switch. The black wire is supposed to just wrap around the outer body of the switch. When I installed mine i was able to feed the black wire up and then wrap it around it.

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

MrBlister, Right now I'm using just the transponder chip from the wallet key (which actually broke in my wallet). Do you think changing it out for an actual OEM Lexus key would help? Maybe the valet key? That's what the tech suggested for $75 (once I have the extra original keys mailed to me).

FlopTop04

Some additional info...

If I remember correctly, the LuxLink included the XpressKit TBKIII Universal Bypass module. If this is the unit that came
with your LuxLink system, here is a link to the install guide :
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDow...irmwareid=1485

The LuxLink Install Guide has the info and pictures for removing the lower dash panel as does the pictorial on the 12Volt forum.
That has to be removed first. I think I remember a post concerning the removal of the dash trim piece that goes around the
ignition switch on ClubLexus. The 12Volt pictorial and install on my SC430 used another style bypass module so this trim panel
did not have to be removed ( as there was no antenna loop placed on the end of the ignition cylinder ), so I can't help or supply
photos.

As mentioned above, the transponder chip signal strength can be adversely affected by very cold temperatures. Besides ensuring
that the antenna loop is properly wrapped around the end of the ignition switch ( position and number of wraps ), verify that the
transponder chip / key in the TBXIII box is well centered and secured in the antenna pick-up inside the box.