biggy8133

I am wanting to change my differential fluid and could use some help. If anyone has step by step instructions or photos of its location/process, that would be great.

Thanks

mandyfig

Fairly simple, you will see 2 bolts, drain and fill holes. Get the fill hole bolt out first (to make sure you can fill with fluid) and then remove the drain bolt. Will need a helper in case the bolts are tight. Check the fluid specs in your manual. I think I did a DIY much early on in 2010. I will search and post a few pics that I took.

Good luck.

biggy8133

Thanks for the instructions Mandyfig. If you can find your pics from your DIY post, that would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you have done any of the other fluid changes yourself(oil, brake, transmission, powersteering, etc...) and you have a post or photos for those processes, I would greatly appreciate it if you can send them to me or send me the link for them.

mandyfig

FLUIDS:

Tranny fluid is a cake walk. Drain and fill with 3 Qts of T-IV Toyota Trans Fluid. I do this every 5K miles, until fluid stays pink.

Power Steering, suck up the fluid using a suction device ($10 at your local BM Auto store) every 2K miles, until the fluid stays at pinkish color, then change every oil change.

Brakes, I have not done.

Oil, as usual, very easy, 5 quarts of 5W-30 Full synthetic. The SC is so easy to do.

mandyfig

Search is a very good friend...

harleydjce

I think the OP's Sc is a 2007 6 speed. IF so it uses Toyota WS not the T-IV and the tranny fluid change process is not the same as for the 5 speed.

OBP

OP: For rear diff fluid change, I used Mobil One 75W 90 synthetic. Maybe 2-3 years and 20K miles ago. Still running sweet.

biggy8133

What is the best method and most cost efficient way to get under the car to pull plugs to drain fluids (Diff fluid, Oil, Brake, Transmission, etc..)?
Do you use a regular car jack or do you guys have a recommendation for an inexpensive tool besides a jack?

kjcole

Get the tranny powerflushed - the drain and refill method only gets a little at a time. For $100 (or less) you'll get it done right.

SC43052

If you mean by powerflush disconnecting the two lines from the transmission cooler and allowing the transmission pump to expel old fluid into a waste container and simultaneously pickup fresh fluid from a supply container, then I agree that this is a quicker, more complete method of changing the fluid. You need to allow the transmission to continue pumping until the fluid exiting the transmission is close to fresh fluid in color (a clear tube can be used on the exit line to be able to monitor the color along with and small white colored container to occasionally sample the exiting fluid to more closely monitor color).

However, some maintenance shops will hook a machine to the two lines, and drain the transmission fluid while forcing solvent under pressure the machine supplies into the transmission to "clean up the crud", then refill the transmission with fluid.

I would recommend not using any solvents in a transmission or using any pressure supplied by the machine to force fluid into the transmission.

SC43052

Safety first - After raising the car ALWAYS support the car with jack stands, placed at the designated jack points identified by Lexus in the owners manual. NEVER, EVER use just a floor jack, or the portable jack supplied by Lexus to change a tire, to support the car while you do work on it.

You will need two jack stands to support the front end only or read end only, but you will need four jack stands to support both ends of the car simultaneously.

To jack the front end you will either need a very low profile floor jack, or first drive the front tires up onto one or two 2X10s laid flat on the floor to raise the car 1.5-3" first. There is an area on the main cross beam between the two front wheels that the jack pad fits nicely onto just in front of the front suspension support plate. Use a work light and proceed slowly when positioning the floor jack cup on the cross member and raise slowly while continuing to check your position, as if you miss the the cross member you can do damage to components on the bottom of the engine (once you do this a couple of times you don't even have to think about it, but the first time go slowly). (I have painted this area a bright red to make it stick out so I can easily see it, even in poor light.)

If you use the 2X10's to first raise the car and then remove them while doing work, make sure you place them under the tires again before lowering the car (again if you are not using a low profile floor jack).

Once the front end is raised to the desired level, place both jack stands (adjusted to the same height) and slowly lower the floor jack until the car rests securely on the jack stands. Do not leave the floor jack in place.

To raise the rear of the car, I use a 5" piece of 2X4 on the floor jack cup positioned under the rear differential to raise the rear end before placing the jack stands.

biggy8133

Mandyfig: Did you by any chance have the photos mentioned above when you changed the differential fluid?

LexBrett

3 quarts for the transmission? The owners manual indicates 1.8 quarts or about 2 liters. When drained my ATF pan I measured the amount that came out and it exactly filled up a 2 liter bottle...

And you change power steering fluid every fluid change? Just the reservour?

jzwu

Good summary!

Brake fluid: same method for power steering fluid change. Repeat a few times while driving a while after each refill.

Rear differential fluid: no need to change. I changed it on my 2002 with 60k miles and it was still very clean. The fluid easily lasts 100-150k miles.

mandyfig

No I did not. Fairly simple. The challenge is how to lift the car and support safely so you can roll in and do your drain and fill. Likewise in my case the fluid was still fresh if color and was the telling sign. No crud or anything.