Suspension upgrades gone wrong.. Rear Camber Alignment issues!!!
08-16-13, 11:20 AM
#1
Suspension upgrades gone wrong.. Rear Camber Alignment issues!!!
Been a while since i last posted, been busy at work and at modifying the SC.. Was planning a thread with info when all is done but i have started loosing hope!!
This is what has been going:-
- MeisterR Europa Coilovers
- Eibach/SPC UCA Camber/Castor Correct (For the 2GS)
- SPC Rear Camber Cam Bolt 1+/- Rear Camber Correction
- Cusco STB (Pretty much pointless, maybe a little psycological motivation, nothing physical IMO)
- TRD Blue Front Sway Bar 2GS - Easily the best mod on the list
- Supra TT front Calipers with front and rear HPS Hawk pads (Transformation in braking characteristics) - had to add a front 1" spacer to clear the factory wheel.
Firstly, i am having a really hard time calibrating spring preload and ride height, the car always seems higher or lower from one side, sometimes one wheel.. Its driving me crazy and i do not wanna venture off in expensive professional tools.. How are you guys getting accurate measurements? The problem is it directly effects handling and steering response.. Driving me nuts, car is higher on passenger side as we speak!
Technician accidently installed the Swaybar upside down, bent the driver side sway bar link, and cut the passenger side ABS line since the bar was hitting on the frame. Replaced the link and corrected the bar, seems okay only toe was bumped out of spec. Thanks to the SPC arms, front alignment was a breeze (castor included). Wish i can say the same for the rear.
When i first installed the SPC rear cam bolts, i managed to get within spec lowered, two days later i notice rear wheels are negative camber and the car sort of wiggles on any road imperfections. Spoke to SPC and ended up spot welding the brackets to the control arms. Took it for alignment again, noticed the passenger side centric bolt was bushed quarter way out of the bracket and was knocked way out of spec. Now on maximum correction, i am running -2.40 degrees driver side and 3 degrees passenger!
I spoke to SPC and they are currently sending me a new set of camber cams to venture off with but i am not to optemistic. Are you lowered guys out there facing any issues with rear camber alignment? I am thinking of contacting Figs (if they don't tune into this thread already) and discuss rear lower arm options. I went on their website but couldn't figure out what i need.
This is what has been going:-
- MeisterR Europa Coilovers
- Eibach/SPC UCA Camber/Castor Correct (For the 2GS)
- SPC Rear Camber Cam Bolt 1+/- Rear Camber Correction
- Cusco STB (Pretty much pointless, maybe a little psycological motivation, nothing physical IMO)
- TRD Blue Front Sway Bar 2GS
- Easily the best mod on the list- Supra TT front Calipers with front and rear HPS Hawk pads (Transformation in braking characteristics) - had to add a front 1" spacer to clear the factory wheel.
Firstly, i am having a really hard time calibrating spring preload and ride height, the car always seems higher or lower from one side, sometimes one wheel.. Its driving me crazy and i do not wanna venture off in expensive professional tools.. How are you guys getting accurate measurements? The problem is it directly effects handling and steering response.. Driving me nuts, car is higher on passenger side as we speak!
Technician accidently installed the Swaybar upside down, bent the driver side sway bar link, and cut the passenger side ABS line since the bar was hitting on the frame. Replaced the link and corrected the bar, seems okay only toe was bumped out of spec. Thanks to the SPC arms, front alignment was a breeze (castor included). Wish i can say the same for the rear.
When i first installed the SPC rear cam bolts, i managed to get within spec lowered, two days later i notice rear wheels are negative camber and the car sort of wiggles on any road imperfections. Spoke to SPC and ended up spot welding the brackets to the control arms. Took it for alignment again, noticed the passenger side centric bolt was bushed quarter way out of the bracket and was knocked way out of spec. Now on maximum correction, i am running -2.40 degrees driver side and 3 degrees passenger!
I spoke to SPC and they are currently sending me a new set of camber cams to venture off with but i am not to optemistic. Are you lowered guys out there facing any issues with rear camber alignment? I am thinking of contacting Figs (if they don't tune into this thread already) and discuss rear lower arm options. I went on their website but couldn't figure out what i need.
Last edited by I-FORCE; 08-16-13 at 11:29 AM.
08-18-13, 02:29 PM
#2
Can't help with the rear castor issue, but with the new springs and dampers I have some info.
Drive the car for 2,000 miles and then get a specialist suspension set up shop or person who prepare race cars to adjust them for corner weights. The car will sit almost perfectly and more importantly handle perfectly. The reason to drive 2k miles first is to let the springs find their final position. All new car springs sink with regular usage to the final position and this sinking has caught out many people who are trying to adjust coil-overs or were expecting a big drop in ride height from a new set of lowering springs and are initially disappointed..
TLDR: Drive on the new springs for a while and let them settle, then and only then attempt to set them up to their final position..
Drive the car for 2,000 miles and then get a specialist suspension set up shop or person who prepare race cars to adjust them for corner weights. The car will sit almost perfectly and more importantly handle perfectly. The reason to drive 2k miles first is to let the springs find their final position. All new car springs sink with regular usage to the final position and this sinking has caught out many people who are trying to adjust coil-overs or were expecting a big drop in ride height from a new set of lowering springs and are initially disappointed..
TLDR: Drive on the new springs for a while and let them settle, then and only then attempt to set them up to their final position..
08-23-13, 07:13 AM
#4
Can't help with the rear castor issue, but with the new springs and dampers I have some info.
Drive the car for 2,000 miles and then get a specialist suspension set up shop or person who prepare race cars to adjust them for corner weights. The car will sit almost perfectly and more importantly handle perfectly. The reason to drive 2k miles first is to let the springs find their final position. All new car springs sink with regular usage to the final position and this sinking has caught out many people who are trying to adjust coil-overs or were expecting a big drop in ride height from a new set of lowering springs and are initially disappointed..
TLDR: Drive on the new springs for a while and let them settle, then and only then attempt to set them up to their final position..
Drive the car for 2,000 miles and then get a specialist suspension set up shop or person who prepare race cars to adjust them for corner weights. The car will sit almost perfectly and more importantly handle perfectly. The reason to drive 2k miles first is to let the springs find their final position. All new car springs sink with regular usage to the final position and this sinking has caught out many people who are trying to adjust coil-overs or were expecting a big drop in ride height from a new set of lowering springs and are initially disappointed..
TLDR: Drive on the new springs for a while and let them settle, then and only then attempt to set them up to their final position..
Anyhow.. Issue is we do not have anyone local who does corner balancing.. I do not feel i need to go to that extent for a daily driver.. I just need to find a relatively accurate way to balance ride height.
i2fat.. I am running front SPC upper control arms.. They take care of camber and castor.. Very good product no issues. I am running pretty low but not VIp Style.. I've attached a pic.
Last edited by I-FORCE; 08-23-13 at 07:16 AM. Reason: forgot to add attachment
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