LexBrett

Great write up! I wish I had that tutorial before I did my plugs. Now I only have a year on my plugs and I am already itching to change them. The hardest part is getting to the engine coils. Once you have freed up that location, it is really easy to take out the coil and replace the plugs. I made the mistake of putting E3's in last year, and now I feel I should switch to the traditional NGKs..

mandyfig

Go ahead and do it. Fresh plugs are good for 60K miles at least. Go!

SlvBullet

iTrader: (8)

Great DIY

Thanks Mandy

Did the spark pkugs today and while I was at it, I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. Slights changes to Mandy's procedure. Car has 68,000 miles and the plugs were never changed. I used the same Ngk Laser Iridium 4589 plugs.

- I did one plug at a time so I didn't have to keep track of the coils or temporarily plug the holes.

- I did not move then steering fluid reservoir - using two 3" extensions with a knuckle in between worked fine to remove the coil bolt and the plug.

Procedure went very well - about 2 hours w/o throttle body removal and cleaning. I cleaned the throttle body about 20k miles ago so It wasn't too dirty.

Put everything back together and tested, first w/o all the vacuum stuff and MAF but then you can't test at higher revs but started up fine. Completed reassembly and started up and sounds great up to redline. As usual had the CEL and the VSC pair of lights so I cleared them with the OBC shorting pins 3 and 5 procedure.

All ready for a SCCA track day next Sat.

SlvBullet

iTrader: (8)

I couldn't add more than one picture at a time ... Seems they have the same name on my iPad

NovaRnder

Mandyfig great DIY thread on changing the spark plugs and about to replace mine using NGK plugs. I wanted to know how much and where exactly to put the anti-seize compound so I researched for this and found several threads from different forums about not using the compound on modern spark plugs because of it tends to do more harm or damages than benefit from it. Also ran into a link on NGK site about the matter which I posted the link below. I'm waiting for expert opinions from our guys in this forum to chime in so we can finally settle this and just in time for me before I replace my spark plugs. Thanks in advance!!


http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

I don't consider myself an expert, but I used a small amount on each plug.I put just enough on my finger to barely cover the threads of the plug.I change my plugs every 2 years,regardless of mileage & haven't had any issues getting them out, when it was time to replace them

rudyH

FWIW...from motor.com:
NGK is perhaps the most adamant in their opposition to the use of antiseize. In fact, they’ve devoted an entire technical service bulletin to explain why it’s a bad idea. Here’s an excerpt:

Issue
Applying antiseize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to mistakenly overtighten the spark plug in the cylinder head. This stretches and fatigues the threads of the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some cases upon removal.

Solution
For spark plugs with special metal plating, simply do not use antiseize on initial installation. All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head, thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.

From Autolite:

We do not recommend the use of any antiseize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.

Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling, resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing.

Digging further, I found Autolite information that seemed to directly contradict these recommendations. The instructions apply to the company’s long-reach HT (high-thread) plugs, which are installed on the problematic three-valve modular Ford engines that have been responsible for a lot of cursing when it comes time to replace their spark plugs. In fact, most of the instructions have to do with the steps that are necessary to dislodge the carbon and remove the old plugs without breaking them or causing any other damage. Again, an excerpt from Autolite’s instructions for the installation of these specific plugs:

New plugs should be installed using a thin-film coating of high-temperature nickel antiseize on the ground electrode shield. DO NOT coat the ground strap. Tighten spark plugs to 25 ft.-lbs.
~~~~~~~~~
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=2023

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

jzwu

Not sure autolite brand is what you want to use anyway.

I only use NGK or Bosch and no antiseize. Never a problem.

rudyH

I agree. I've used Denso in the past and they were fine but that's going way back.

http://densott.com/

NovaRnder

rudyH Thanks for the research and links that you posted a couple of posts above ago. Yep, since I'm using NGK plugs, I will go by their guidelines and install the plugs dry.

rudyH

Stripped spark plug threads in the cylinder head is a sore spot for me since I stripped one on my dad's Pontiac 389 when I was 10! Never start the plug with a wrench is what I learned that day!

mandyfig

Just a little dab on the 1st 2 threads. Be careful in getting stuff on the electrode. God luck.

GFTSFG

This post is awesome. Thank you very, very much. I just did my plugs and I'm seeing 10-15% more power - because of this great post. Thank you!

mandyfig

Good for you!

Jabberwock

My car is a 2004 and has 29k miles. Wondering if anyone changed plugs on a low mile 12 year or older SC430 and saw any difference in engine performance and smoothness.