LED Conversion Project
04-30-13, 04:27 PM
#106
Moderator
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=ShawnOk;7913390]No, actually I didn't drop the bumper for any of the lights.
ShawnOk, for the FOGS, I need your detailed help as I, too do not want to remove the bumper:
Fog was really easy on this passenger side....
....So I take it that you went through the fender liner for the PASS Side Fogs.
And had to do the fog from under the front lip b'c the windshield washer reservoir was in the way when attempted through the wheel well.
....I tried this from below but could not get in there...more tips please, would have been nice if we had pics...
Thanks in advance.
ShawnOk, for the FOGS, I need your detailed help as I, too do not want to remove the bumper:
Fog was really easy on this passenger side....
....So I take it that you went through the fender liner for the PASS Side Fogs.
And had to do the fog from under the front lip b'c the windshield washer reservoir was in the way when attempted through the wheel well.
....I tried this from below but could not get in there...more tips please, would have been nice if we had pics...
Thanks in advance.
04-30-13, 04:30 PM
#107
Moderator
Thread Starter
Our fogs are not the plug and play twist type, they have to be connected...hence a pain.
04-30-13, 05:18 PM
#108
Mandyfig,
yeah, sorry I should have taken photos but once I got into it, I was just in a hurry to get the job finished.
Time: 30 min + Patience (for the spring clips)
Tools: Flashlight/Head Lamp, "Stubby" Phillips Screw Driver, Flat Head Screwdriver, Nut Driver
Remember you CAN'T test these fog lamps until they are seated in the mount b'c the ring around the mount acts as the ground.
For the passenger side fog light, cut the wheels as far as you can to toward the driver side to give you room to work. Remove the three most lateral screws below the engine bay that hold the little "curb fin," in place. Then IN the wheel well, remove three screws (1 is actually in the front of the wheel well liner, 2 are on the outer edge of the wheel well.) One will require the stubby screwdriver. The 2 screws on the edge will also have retainer clips. remove those with a flat head screwdriver (WATCH THE PAINT!). Now carefully pull the wheel liner toward the rear of the vehicle so you're able to get your hands into the space. Start from the top and work down; prying the liner out slowly. From that point, use the flashlight and you should be able to see the fog lamp housing. Twist off the cap and you will see the positive wire of the current lamp. If you pull the wire away from the cap, you will see a white clip will pop up and allow you to remove the wire from the harness. Then use your fingers to retract the "spring clip," that holds the lamp in place INSIDE the lamp housing. I had to fiddle with the spring a little but it came out eventually (a "push and slide to the side" method worked best for me). Then plug up the LED with the lead going into the white clip in the cap. Put it all back together. Reseating the lamp was time consuming b'c the spring clip is a real headache to get back into place properly to lock the lamp down. Test it, Twist the cap back on and reassemble the fender lining. Boom.
For the Driver's side fog lamp, Under the car, remove all the "curb fin" screws, as well as the two screws that are along the underside of front lip of the car nearest the fog light. You will have to bend and force the the inner liner up toward the engine and the lower liner down towards the ground to allow your hand to get up and into the space. My recommendation, position yourself right under the grille and use your left hand. There will be a grey electrical clip that powers the fog lamp. This will be in the way, so I recommend you unclip it. From this point you will have no line of sight so everything will be done by touch. Feel for the cap at the back of the housing. Twist the cap off and position the flashlight, and you will see the same situation as the other side. Remove the power wire from the white clip in the cap, and connect your LED light. Remember to plug the grey power clip back in before testing it once you reseat the bulb in the housing. You will have to do this by touch since there is still no line of sight. Remember to plug in the grey power clip before testing. I had forgotten. Twist the cap back on. Reassemble the liners and you're golden.
Hope all this makes sense. Tried to give as much visualization related terminology I could think of.
yeah, sorry I should have taken photos but once I got into it, I was just in a hurry to get the job finished.
Time: 30 min + Patience (for the spring clips)
Tools: Flashlight/Head Lamp, "Stubby" Phillips Screw Driver, Flat Head Screwdriver, Nut Driver
Remember you CAN'T test these fog lamps until they are seated in the mount b'c the ring around the mount acts as the ground.
For the passenger side fog light, cut the wheels as far as you can to toward the driver side to give you room to work. Remove the three most lateral screws below the engine bay that hold the little "curb fin," in place. Then IN the wheel well, remove three screws (1 is actually in the front of the wheel well liner, 2 are on the outer edge of the wheel well.) One will require the stubby screwdriver. The 2 screws on the edge will also have retainer clips. remove those with a flat head screwdriver (WATCH THE PAINT!). Now carefully pull the wheel liner toward the rear of the vehicle so you're able to get your hands into the space. Start from the top and work down; prying the liner out slowly. From that point, use the flashlight and you should be able to see the fog lamp housing. Twist off the cap and you will see the positive wire of the current lamp. If you pull the wire away from the cap, you will see a white clip will pop up and allow you to remove the wire from the harness. Then use your fingers to retract the "spring clip," that holds the lamp in place INSIDE the lamp housing. I had to fiddle with the spring a little but it came out eventually (a "push and slide to the side" method worked best for me). Then plug up the LED with the lead going into the white clip in the cap. Put it all back together. Reseating the lamp was time consuming b'c the spring clip is a real headache to get back into place properly to lock the lamp down. Test it, Twist the cap back on and reassemble the fender lining. Boom.
For the Driver's side fog lamp, Under the car, remove all the "curb fin" screws, as well as the two screws that are along the underside of front lip of the car nearest the fog light. You will have to bend and force the the inner liner up toward the engine and the lower liner down towards the ground to allow your hand to get up and into the space. My recommendation, position yourself right under the grille and use your left hand. There will be a grey electrical clip that powers the fog lamp. This will be in the way, so I recommend you unclip it. From this point you will have no line of sight so everything will be done by touch. Feel for the cap at the back of the housing. Twist the cap off and position the flashlight, and you will see the same situation as the other side. Remove the power wire from the white clip in the cap, and connect your LED light. Remember to plug the grey power clip back in before testing it once you reseat the bulb in the housing. You will have to do this by touch since there is still no line of sight. Remember to plug in the grey power clip before testing. I had forgotten. Twist the cap back on. Reassemble the liners and you're golden.
Hope all this makes sense. Tried to give as much visualization related terminology I could think of.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 04-30-13 at 05:36 PM.
04-30-13, 06:47 PM
#109
Moderator
Thread Starter
Thanks much for the detailed description.
This PM, prior to reading your reply, I was unsettled so I actually jacked the car up and tore down the PASS side. I did as you recommended and pull the fender liner back. Twisted off the cap and there it was and I used a mirror to see how the bulb sat with the clip.
I knew it, it will be by feel. For 1st timers, it will take a lot of patience to get it right.
Patience I have. The only thing is, you need to wait to get into the right mood.
The DR side will be a double challenge due to the water tank.
Thanks a lot again. I will take pics when I actually embark on this. If I get pissed, the bumper cover will be off.
This PM, prior to reading your reply, I was unsettled so I actually jacked the car up and tore down the PASS side. I did as you recommended and pull the fender liner back. Twisted off the cap and there it was and I used a mirror to see how the bulb sat with the clip.
I knew it, it will be by feel. For 1st timers, it will take a lot of patience to get it right.
Patience I have. The only thing is, you need to wait to get into the right mood.
The DR side will be a double challenge due to the water tank.
Thanks a lot again. I will take pics when I actually embark on this. If I get pissed, the bumper cover will be off.
05-01-13, 07:07 PM
#110
Moderator
Thread Starter
Finally had a chance to take some night shots of the puddles.
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Jack7702 (01-18-20)
05-02-13, 09:07 AM
#113
Moderator
Thread Starter
2 minutes they turn off. I like it.
05-11-13, 03:49 PM
#115
Moderator
Thread Starter
The rear and the door puddles turn off after 2 minutes. Have not done the fogs yet. I would do eyebrows LED when I decide to bring down the bumpers. Looking for a good set, OEM looking.
05-12-13, 09:37 AM
#116
Here are the DRL's in the Daytime. As noted earlier in this post; when flipping to High Beam, there is a very slight increase, if any, in intensity and may not be enough for some to pass state inspection. Luckily for me, Oklahoma doesn't require inspection. So it's all gravy on my end. I think the clean look of the DRL and Parking Lamps made this whole project completely satisfying in my opinion. Plus the interior just looks so stone cold clean with the bright white with dark wood and black leather. The 2nd photo are the Parking Lamps with a different camera.
05-12-13, 12:28 PM
#117
Thanks.
06-11-14, 11:13 PM
#118
Sorry to revive this thread but I'm thinking of finally upgrading the last unchanged halogen bulbs in my car to LEDs. These include the front and rear turn signal bulbs, and the tail and brake light bulbs. In specific, I'm worried about adding the turn signal as I don't want to deal with adding resistors (ie. cutting the OEM harness). I know there are error-free ones but I'm trying to save some money so buying normal ones would be the way to go for me. I don't think the tail or brake lights would need them, but I heard the turn signals might. Can anyone with experience chime in, please?
06-12-14, 02:14 PM
#119
Moderator
Thread Starter
There has been a lot discussion and research on how to change out to LED’s. Sorry to say that the signal bulbs and the tails are not candidates for quick changes as they are more to it than meets the eye. You can peruse through the Tail Upgrade threads. Signals, there is no way you can upgrade without the mess of resistors.
The easy quick solution to getting LED’s on the tails…is upgrade to the LED tail, circa 2006. It will change the look of your rear and it is plug and play. Almost. If you opt to purchase the upgrade package to LED’s and did not get the computer swap, there will be a “bulb out” indicator on the dashboard. What most people have done, including yours truly was to apply a black tape over this bulb so you never see it. This is a fairly simple process however it will require that you take out the instrument cluster. Still a simple process, lots of DIY on it.
Sewell sells an LED Tail upgrade. For $560 you get the 2 tails. Plug them in, done. If you want the Upgrade with the computer change out, you will have to tear down the trunk so you can swap computers and the cost is $1040. Doable, but a lot of work. These are CL discount pricing.
The easy quick solution to getting LED’s on the tails…is upgrade to the LED tail, circa 2006. It will change the look of your rear and it is plug and play. Almost. If you opt to purchase the upgrade package to LED’s and did not get the computer swap, there will be a “bulb out” indicator on the dashboard. What most people have done, including yours truly was to apply a black tape over this bulb so you never see it. This is a fairly simple process however it will require that you take out the instrument cluster. Still a simple process, lots of DIY on it.
Sewell sells an LED Tail upgrade. For $560 you get the 2 tails. Plug them in, done. If you want the Upgrade with the computer change out, you will have to tear down the trunk so you can swap computers and the cost is $1040. Doable, but a lot of work. These are CL discount pricing.