Fuel Treatment
10-05-12, 05:01 AM
#2
Moderator
Techron concentrated fuel system cleaner - twice a year. get the expensive concentrated version not the cheaper diluted version.
10-05-12, 12:13 PM
#3
I use Seafoam. Is this good? I use it every 6 months regardless of miles (which is very low).
10-06-12, 06:31 PM
#4
Rookie
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Atlanta and Miami Beach
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Below is a cut-and-paste of a comment in a 2010 discussion of this topic:
I was in general agreement with the observation that “Most ‘additives’ are about profits rather than performance . . . ." until I read one of George Murphy’s regular columns (Murphy’s Law) in the March-April, 2010 issue of The Star (the Mercedes-Benz Club of America magazine). He started with a discussion of the adverse effects of Ethanol (E-10 gasoline) on older cars and all cars either driven relatively few miles per year (e.g., limited weekend use) or placed in storage (e.g., during the winter).
In addition to the usual precautions (e.g., keep the tank 95% full), Mr. Murphy recommends the use of a stabilizer/additive (e.g., Marine Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment) at every fill-up, especially for those cars, but for all cars as well. He concludes “This will protect your car from ethanol-induced corrosion as well as keep the entire fuel system clean to avoid problems in the future.” Mr. Murphy is a director at large on the MBCA national board and appointed technical director of the club, and has been so for a number of years. I think he knows of what he speaks.
I was in general agreement with the observation that “Most ‘additives’ are about profits rather than performance . . . ." until I read one of George Murphy’s regular columns (Murphy’s Law) in the March-April, 2010 issue of The Star (the Mercedes-Benz Club of America magazine). He started with a discussion of the adverse effects of Ethanol (E-10 gasoline) on older cars and all cars either driven relatively few miles per year (e.g., limited weekend use) or placed in storage (e.g., during the winter).
In addition to the usual precautions (e.g., keep the tank 95% full), Mr. Murphy recommends the use of a stabilizer/additive (e.g., Marine Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment) at every fill-up, especially for those cars, but for all cars as well. He concludes “This will protect your car from ethanol-induced corrosion as well as keep the entire fuel system clean to avoid problems in the future.” Mr. Murphy is a director at large on the MBCA national board and appointed technical director of the club, and has been so for a number of years. I think he knows of what he speaks.
Last edited by MadHungari; 10-06-12 at 06:38 PM.
10-07-12, 10:47 AM
#6
Rookie
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Atlanta and Miami Beach
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Everything (and more) one needs to know about ethanol + gasoline:
http://www.goldeagle.com/UserFiles/f...ed_Gasline.pdf
http://www.goldeagle.com/UserFiles/f...ed_Gasline.pdf
10-08-12, 02:15 AM
#7
Trending Topics
10-08-12, 09:18 AM
#8
Madhungari,
Thanks for that link. Great read. An objective technical paper on modern gasoline formulas, ethanol use in gasoline, and fuel treatments, among many other topics. Confirms for me that a lot of people are unnecessarily overwrought about ethanol, and are clinging to 30 year old notions that haven't kept pace with regulations, modern fuel delivery systems (both of the fuel to the station, and from your tank to the cylinders), and modern additives.
Unless you are having a problem, the regular use of additives is a waste of money (federal regulations in the US already have the needed stabilizers and detergents in the fuel). Occasional use for a purpose is fine (suspicion of injector fouling). Regular use in concentrated amounts may even contribute to oil thickening. Finally, claims of phase separation (ethanol and water) are mostly based on problems in the 80's and 90's (when the change over was taking place) and are not the inevitable occurrence that the anti-ethanol crowd would have you believe. Unless you get a load of water that overpowers the normal hygroscopic abilities of ethanol, you shouldn't worry. Indeed, ethanol will bind to more water (and thus burn it) than will untreated gasoline.
Due diligence and then make your choice.
Kelly
Thanks for that link. Great read. An objective technical paper on modern gasoline formulas, ethanol use in gasoline, and fuel treatments, among many other topics. Confirms for me that a lot of people are unnecessarily overwrought about ethanol, and are clinging to 30 year old notions that haven't kept pace with regulations, modern fuel delivery systems (both of the fuel to the station, and from your tank to the cylinders), and modern additives.
Unless you are having a problem, the regular use of additives is a waste of money (federal regulations in the US already have the needed stabilizers and detergents in the fuel). Occasional use for a purpose is fine (suspicion of injector fouling). Regular use in concentrated amounts may even contribute to oil thickening. Finally, claims of phase separation (ethanol and water) are mostly based on problems in the 80's and 90's (when the change over was taking place) and are not the inevitable occurrence that the anti-ethanol crowd would have you believe. Unless you get a load of water that overpowers the normal hygroscopic abilities of ethanol, you shouldn't worry. Indeed, ethanol will bind to more water (and thus burn it) than will untreated gasoline.
Due diligence and then make your choice.
Kelly
10-08-12, 05:45 PM
#10
Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-08-12, 07:16 PM
#11
Heard of BG 44K. Forgot where I read about it.
10-09-12, 06:15 AM
#12
My 430 is a daily driver. I use Seafoam which has been recommended by a number of mechanics I know personally. If I were going to store for any length of time, I would add a stabilizer as well. Remember there is a difference between "cleaners" and "stabilizers". I am also a professional fisherman and running 250hp 2-stroke outboards, Ethanol has been a curse. Mainly because of the water environment you run a boat in and corn fuels habit of pulling in water then phase separating. It also breaks down the linings in fuel lines (not autos though). I don't own an engine that I don't put Seafoam in. I am averaging 26 mpg in the 430 and purrs like a kitten. Many of the additives may be snake oil but the seafoam isn't in my experience.
TOXIC
TOXIC
10-09-12, 08:42 AM
#13
Love Seafoam as well. Agree re: problems with ethanol in marine applications - particularly since much of the equipment wasn't designed for ethanol, unlike automotive apps. Marine equipment tends to remain in service a long time since the running hours usually never approach automotive levels.
10-09-12, 08:25 PM
#14
Moderator
Seafoam list of Ingredients (from the published MSDS)
40-60%: Pale Oil (A light weight petroleum lubricating oil)
25-35%: Naphtha (Naptha is a common name for lighter fluid)
10-20%: IPA (isopropyl alcohol) - Rubbing alcohol
Seafoam is 25-20 cents worth of ingredients selling for $7-8 a can. My guess is that the can and transportation cost way more than the ingredients.
40-60%: Pale Oil (A light weight petroleum lubricating oil)
25-35%: Naphtha (Naptha is a common name for lighter fluid)
10-20%: IPA (isopropyl alcohol) - Rubbing alcohol
Seafoam is 25-20 cents worth of ingredients selling for $7-8 a can. My guess is that the can and transportation cost way more than the ingredients.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 10-09-12 at 08:32 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
satz
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
3
12-05-13 04:45 PM
