Bon

My wind noise was coming from the passenger side and it didn't even have a split. The new weather stripping solved the problem.

My drivers side has a split but no wind noise. What's up with that? I haven't yet bothered to replace the weather stripping on that window.

Sewell

iTrader: (9)

Here's the weatherstrip you guys are referring. It's a relatively common part for replacement (like most weatherstrips). There's not much to it once you have the door disassembled.

Darrel

Harold57

What discount code do we use for this item? I logged in and the price still shows up as $50.62.

Sewell

iTrader: (9)

Harold - Just make sure when you're logged in your at the product page - not the checkout. If you're at the checkout when you log in, you may have to re-add the weatherstrip to see the correct total.

Either way, when you're logged in (you're customer profile is correct for a CL member) the product page will display the correct price.

If this still isn't the case, please email me directly and we'll figure it out.

Darrel Diller
ddiller@sewell.com

Harold57

That works. Thanks.

talwang

iTrader: (4)

In my own experience, the split on the driver side would likely come back really soon (3-4 months for me).
I have replaced it twice already, so I don't bother to change it again.
I think either the rubber material is too weak or the design is bad.

Harold57

Well I finally bit the bullet and decided that I didn't want to pay someone more than $200 to replace the two weather strip pieces and took it on. It is not easy and not quick, though once you do it a few times, you can get the time down to 20 or 30 minutes each. I did it with a friend who is fairly interior mechanically competent and the first time took us close to an hour and the second one more like 1/2 hour. (He said that he'd be glad to work on other cars doing the same. We are in the far NE Dallas area if you are interested in having him do yours. PM me if you are.)

Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of the process but I did write down the process the next day. So using Bob's attachments on the previous page of this thread for diagrams, you can use my instructions to walk you through the process. It isn't easy but you don't have to be a super technician to do it either.

Use “Front Door Components.pdf” to identify parts and use “Front door overhaul instructions.pdf” to go along with these instructions. (The instruction numbers are matched up.)

1. Remove Multiplex Network Master Switch ***’y [84040]

• a. Use a plastic panel remover or flathead screwdriver (with tape over the end to protect the leather).
• b. Stick it under the switch assembly at the triangle on the figure. (Note: the little metal spring is what you need to get the pry tool against to push back.)
• c. The screwdriver might need to be pushed in enough to release the clip, otherwise, just pry the assembly up. (Note: don't pry much against the switch assembly platform or you will break the tip off. Voice of experience. The key is to push against the spring to release it. A picture here would help but I don't have one.)
• d. The leather tucked in under the assembly might need to be pulled back to prevent the clip from grabbing it on the way out. (Just take it slow and careful.)
• e. Remove the assembly from the arm rest and disconnect the connector. (Press down on the connector locking release to disconnect the connector.) Note: there is one connector on the driver’s side and two on the passenger’s side switch assembly. They are different connectors and shouldn’t be capable of being re-hooked up incorrectly.

2. Remove Door Inside Handle Bezel # 2 [69298A/98-93]

• a. Use the same prying instrument as in step one. The bezel should pop out fairly easy as shown, though it can stick on occasion.

3. Remove Front Door Window Upper Bracket Garnish [67492B/98-92]

• a. Grab the garnish at the top (or pry with the above prying instrument) and it will pop loose fairly easily.

4. Remove Front Door Trim Board Sub-***’y [67602/98-92]

• a. Remove the three hex head screws at the bottom of the door panel under the rubber weather-stripping.
• b. Remove the 2 Phillips head screws at the rear end of the door panel.
• c. Remove the 1 Phillips head screw under the arm rest near the rear inside the gap.
• d. Remove the 1 Phillips head screw behind the door handle lever.
• e. Remove the 1 Phillips head screw inside the window switch assembly hole.
• f. Using the pry tool above or one with a broader blade (preferably with a split end), pry behind the door panel behind the two clips at the forward end of the door panel.
• g. Using a pry tool, pry behind the door panel to release the several hidden clips along the bottom of the panel.
• h. Pulling the bottom part of the panel out a few inches, reach behind the panel to disconnect the following:
  • i. 2 cables connected to the door handle and door lock (cables are in the middle with green on the bottom),
  • ii. Connector for the seat memory switches (upper front),
  • iii. Connector for door lamp (bottom rear).
• i. Lift door panel from the bottom pulling it away from the door frame a few inches.
• j. Lift door panel mainly from the rear and slide to the rear, then set it off to the side.

5. Remove Outer Rear View Mirror ***’y

• a. Disconnect the rear view mirror cable from the door ECU and at the connector. (Removing it from the ECU requires pinching the nylon retainer at the top and bottom. This may be easier with the ECU removed (see next step).)
• b. Remove the three hex head bolts and pull the mirror assembly out. (There is a small retaining screw that keeps the mirror from just falling out when the hex head bolts are out. There is no need to remove the small screw.) Set the mirror assembly to the side.

6. Remove Multiplex Network Door ECU Front

• a. Remove the two screws from the door (middle front). Only one screw needs to be removed and the second one loosened. (If both screws are removed, disconnect the connector at the end of the ECU cable.)
• b. Remove the round rubber plug that was behind the top of the ECU on the door.
• c. Remove the screw inside the door through the hole where the plug was. (Be very careful to not drop the screw inside the door!) Note: removing this screw is key in the re-installation of the new weatherstripping.

7. Remove Front Door Weatherstrip No.2 [67863-24020 right, 67864-24020 left]

• a. Remove the weather stripping (# 2) at the front bottom by pulling out the two pins (one on each side) about an inch or two above the bottom and then pulling out from under the weather stripping that goes from there down.
• b. Pull the entire weather stripping (# 2) out of the window slide.

Now install the new weather stripping (# 2) and reverse the process above. (See post #109 for helpful hints on the installation.)

BTW, after replacing the weather stripping, my wind noise is gone. I agree with you Talwang, the design is poor because the weather stripping has to stretch every time the window is shut. The rubber is too thin in that area to withstand that occurring every day.

I hope that helps,
Harold

<<<<Addition 5/4/2019>>>>
See post #109 for additional and helpful instructions regarding the installation of the weatherstripping. I've also added a couple of new notes above.

VVTiBob

Harold,
There shouldn't be too much stress on weatherstrip #2 piece. A tight fit, but not upward or tearing stress. Were both L and R sides tearing? If not one window may be out of adjustment.

In steps 24-26 of the overhaul document you'll find measurements and methods to adjust the glass on three axis. If your is rising too far now, with the new gasket installed, would be the time to make a very very minor adjustments downward, reducing the tearing force on the rubber part.

talwang

iTrader: (4)

My instruction would a lot shorter. lol

remove the door panel first
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html

remove the three bolts that are holding the side mirror then you can proceed to remove and replace the weatherstrip piece.

sixonemale

Talwang, How long did it take you to complete the job? If someone were to have this done at Lexus, they would pay at least $50 for the weather stripping part and about $120 in labor, according to my local lexus dealer. Therefore, about $170 to eliminate wind noise.

talwang

iTrader: (4)

It took me about 40 minutes the first try.
The second time probably took me less than 30 minutes.
I think putting the pieces back is more harder than removing them.

Harold57

Talwang,
The only real difference is that you didn't remove the door ECU. If you don't remove the screw behind the ECU, then the window track captures the weather stripping and makes it extremely difficult to remove. Other than that, our instructions cover the same thing, other than I included the details of the removal whereas you used pictures. However, you did provide the pictures to show where the screws are in the door panel and that will be helpful.

I think that I could get it down to 20 minutes, now that I know what I'm doing, though I'm not sure that I'm interested in doing it again.

Harold57

Bob,

When you raise your window, does it stretch the weather stripping upward some? Both of the weather stripping on my windows were torn.

talwang

iTrader: (4)

I didn't remove the door ecu.
In fact, I didn't even completely remove the door panel, either.
I just leave the door panel hanging there. It gave me enough room to remove the side mirror and the piece.

However, I will remove the door ecu next time to see if it makes the install easier. Thanks for the info.

Harold57

Did you leave the panel hanging by the cables or just pull it towards the back some? We pulled the panel all the way off just because I didn't want to mess anything up since we didn't know what we were doing at the time. My first thought was to just take it loose at the front and reach in behind it (sort of like what you did) but the front end of the door didn't seem to want to come straight up, rather it seemed to need to slide backwards first or else we just didn't know how to do that properly. Interesting approach.

I'm surprised that you were able to pull the weather stripping out of the window track without taking that last screw out. You must have gotten rowdy with it!