SC430 Air Intake Systems
08-02-12, 07:23 PM
#46
08-02-12, 08:01 PM
#47
Just did the cold air intake mod for my 05 SC. AMAZING!! Unlike most others, I bought my CAI in pieces and put together a kit myself. I got OBX Racing tubing (specially made for the SC430/LS430/GS430 models), K&N Filter, and the tubing all special ordered. The sound is noticeably louder when you accelerate even at low speeds. But man is it worth it!
If I had to describe it, I'd say it sounds more like a muscle car or Porsche-esque. Either way, I love it! Going the 'buy in pieces' route saved me some money too. For the entire kit, I only spent about $100 including tubing, clamps & filter! Ah, love my SC!
If I had to describe it, I'd say it sounds more like a muscle car or Porsche-esque. Either way, I love it! Going the 'buy in pieces' route saved me some money too. For the entire kit, I only spent about $100 including tubing, clamps & filter! Ah, love my SC!
08-03-12, 04:09 PM
#48
Bfi
Just to add the idea ... I was reading about the BFI's (big f...ing intake) on the soarer forums and I will make a cold intake mod off the oem airbox. Cut a 3 or 4" hole at the front bottom of the airbox (front side when in place is the side facing the grill) and connect a tube to the hole and route it out through the rubber sheets that let the cables throught on the left side (drivers seat side) ofnthe headlight ending just behind the grill. If you use 3" tubing, there is an adaptor for the hole in the airbox and a funnel for the side behind the grill (Spectre). For the SC300/400's they fit two or three holes on the airbox but replace the stock intake. On our SC430 we can keep the stock cold intake and add the 3" tube to it. Just behind the grill is a cold air source. I need to clean the MAF and throttle body so I plan to do this at the same time. I will take pictures as well as get it on a dyno and test the with/without extra intake and report here.
08-03-12, 04:57 PM
#49
Just to add the idea ... I was reading about the BFI's (big f...ing intake) on the soarer forums and I will make a cold intake mod off the oem airbox. Cut a 3 or 4" hole at the front bottom of the airbox (front side when in place is the side facing the grill) and connect a tube to the hole and route it out through the rubber sheets that let the cables throught on the left side (drivers seat side) ofnthe headlight ending just behind the grill. If you use 3" tubing, there is an adaptor for the hole in the airbox and a funnel for the side behind the grill (Spectre). For the SC300/400's they fit two or three holes on the airbox but replace the stock intake. On our SC430 we can keep the stock cold intake and add the 3" tube to it. Just behind the grill is a cold air source. I need to clean the MAF and throttle body so I plan to do this at the same time. I will take pictures as well as get it on a dyno and test the with/without extra intake and report here.
08-04-12, 12:26 AM
#50
Just to add the idea ... I was reading about the BFI's (big f...ing intake) on the soarer forums and I will make a cold intake mod off the oem airbox. Cut a 3 or 4" hole at the front bottom of the airbox (front side when in place is the side facing the grill) and connect a tube to the hole and route it out through the rubber sheets that let the cables throught on the left side (drivers seat side) ofnthe headlight ending just behind the grill. If you use 3" tubing, there is an adaptor for the hole in the airbox and a funnel for the side behind the grill (Spectre)....
08-05-12, 07:32 PM
#52
Cold Intake DIY using OEM AirBox
Ok got this done this weekend along with cleaning the MAF.
Tools:
10 mm socket and wrench
10" extension
standard screw driver
Dremel tool with Drill bit (or similar)
Dremel tool with reenforced cutting wheel
Dremel flex-shaft attachment makes cutting a lot easier.
Eye protectors
Supplies:
12-14 inch length of 3" diam intake duct. I used the bendable duct from Spectre Performance part 8741, 28" long. Was in stock at Advanced Auto Parts.
http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.8741
Procedure:
1. Remove air box (plenty of threads showing that).
2. Using a Dremel or a drill cut a 3" diameter hole in the side of the airbox that faces the front of the car. You can drill a ring of holes and then cut the remaining plastic using a cuttoff disk.
[better - use a hole saw and a drill - makes a much cleaner hole]
3. Remove the upper clip near the access hole holding the rubber shield behind the headlight.
4. Cut the clip on the lower edge of the access hole that carries the horn wires to release the wires from the clip.
5. Using the Dremel with the reenforced cutoff disk, cut the metal around the access hole to be able to bend the edges away and back to open the hole. Test the fit with the 3" tube.
6. Cut the duct to the length you want. You can route it further into the area behind the grill but I felt it will get the cold air from that area just fine from the corner. Note that I have installed the Carbing radiator cooling plate to increase the cold air in front of the radiator.
7. It's easiest to route the duct from the outside toward the inside. You can pull it through the access hole and then work it into the air box.
I hope these pictures help.
I will post the before/after dyno information as soon as I can get it done.
Tools:
10 mm socket and wrench
10" extension
standard screw driver
Dremel tool with Drill bit (or similar)
Dremel tool with reenforced cutting wheel
Dremel flex-shaft attachment makes cutting a lot easier.
Eye protectors
Supplies:
12-14 inch length of 3" diam intake duct. I used the bendable duct from Spectre Performance part 8741, 28" long. Was in stock at Advanced Auto Parts.
http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.8741
Procedure:
1. Remove air box (plenty of threads showing that).
2. Using a Dremel or a drill cut a 3" diameter hole in the side of the airbox that faces the front of the car. You can drill a ring of holes and then cut the remaining plastic using a cuttoff disk.
[better - use a hole saw and a drill - makes a much cleaner hole]
3. Remove the upper clip near the access hole holding the rubber shield behind the headlight.
4. Cut the clip on the lower edge of the access hole that carries the horn wires to release the wires from the clip.
5. Using the Dremel with the reenforced cutoff disk, cut the metal around the access hole to be able to bend the edges away and back to open the hole. Test the fit with the 3" tube.
6. Cut the duct to the length you want. You can route it further into the area behind the grill but I felt it will get the cold air from that area just fine from the corner. Note that I have installed the Carbing radiator cooling plate to increase the cold air in front of the radiator.
7. It's easiest to route the duct from the outside toward the inside. You can pull it through the access hole and then work it into the air box.
I hope these pictures help.
I will post the before/after dyno information as soon as I can get it done.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 04-13-15 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Updates
08-05-12, 07:35 PM
#53
NOTE - you can still add one more cold air intake by cutting a hole on the opposite side of the air box and though the inner fender. The air on the other side of the rubber fender cover should be much colder that the air in the engine compartment and will not get wet when driving through puddles. I didn't do this (yet??).
Last pictures. Arrow on air box show where another cold air intake can be fitted.
Total cost = $20 and I have enough duct left over to do the 2nd one.
Last pictures. Arrow on air box show where another cold air intake can be fitted.
Total cost = $20 and I have enough duct left over to do the 2nd one.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 08-05-12 at 07:37 PM. Reason: added cost.
09-02-12, 12:36 PM
#54
Dyno Results are in - 3.66 HP gain at the wheels
Ok the Dyno results are in. With this BFI mod using the OEM airbox there is a 3.66 HP gain at the wheels and a gain of 5.78 in torque. Data from best of several runs. Horsepower maxed out at 5900 RMP; torque maxed at 3500 RMP and was high through 4500 RPM.
Best crank horsepower result is about 300 HP using :
http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php
No increase in sound or noise level. Next step will be to mod the exhaust and then install the PPE headers.
Red line is OEM intake. Blue line is with the extra 3" duct to in front of the radiator.
Best crank horsepower result is about 300 HP using :
http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php
No increase in sound or noise level. Next step will be to mod the exhaust and then install the PPE headers.
Red line is OEM intake. Blue line is with the extra 3" duct to in front of the radiator.
09-02-12, 01:48 PM
#55
Pole Position
Interesting!
'04 SC430's are listed by Lexus as 300 iirc, and 06+ 289, although it's the same engine.
I assume that measuring the power output at the engine (I assume Lexus do it that way in a test rig or something fancy) compared to your measuring it at the wheels account for the missing HP?
Also, what mileage is your SC... I'm vaguely aware that engines lose HP with age. Perhaps it's a bit of both.
Either way 4 HP/6 Torque is 1% in round numbers... surely not worth chasing?
Note: I see that you've topped out @ 145mph... strange. I've had mine at 155mph (157 downhill for a little while). Again points to a lack of power compared to where I'd expect it to be.
'04 SC430's are listed by Lexus as 300 iirc, and 06+ 289, although it's the same engine.
I assume that measuring the power output at the engine (I assume Lexus do it that way in a test rig or something fancy) compared to your measuring it at the wheels account for the missing HP?
Also, what mileage is your SC... I'm vaguely aware that engines lose HP with age. Perhaps it's a bit of both.
Either way 4 HP/6 Torque is 1% in round numbers... surely not worth chasing?
Note: I see that you've topped out @ 145mph... strange. I've had mine at 155mph (157 downhill for a little while). Again points to a lack of power compared to where I'd expect it to be.
Last edited by Scarletti; 09-02-12 at 01:51 PM.
09-02-12, 07:15 PM
#56
Lead Lap
It is my understanding that the top speed is controlled by the computer and not the engine. The computer may have a wide tolerance on its speed control though. I've heard that it is set to around 155, but it is possible that it could vary by 10%. Just speculation on my part though.
09-02-12, 08:10 PM
#57
Interesting!
'04 SC430's are listed by Lexus as 300 iirc, and 06+ 289, although it's the same engine.
I assume that measuring the power output at the engine (I assume Lexus do it that way in a test rig or something fancy) compared to your measuring it at the wheels account for the missing HP?
Also, what mileage is your SC... I'm vaguely aware that engines lose HP with age. Perhaps it's a bit of both.
Either way 4 HP/6 Torque is 1% in round numbers... surely not worth chasing?
Note: I see that you've topped out @ 145mph... strange. I've had mine at 155mph (157 downhill for a little while). Again points to a lack of power compared to where I'd expect it to be.
'04 SC430's are listed by Lexus as 300 iirc, and 06+ 289, although it's the same engine.
I assume that measuring the power output at the engine (I assume Lexus do it that way in a test rig or something fancy) compared to your measuring it at the wheels account for the missing HP?
Also, what mileage is your SC... I'm vaguely aware that engines lose HP with age. Perhaps it's a bit of both.
Either way 4 HP/6 Torque is 1% in round numbers... surely not worth chasing?
Note: I see that you've topped out @ 145mph... strange. I've had mine at 155mph (157 downhill for a little while). Again points to a lack of power compared to where I'd expect it to be.
I didn't want to change the sound by using an Injen air upgrade for example and didn't expect a large change with this intake mod. This is the first step in improving the overall air >> exhaust performance. An improved intake, exhaust and the PPE headers as a group should make a very good improvement but it starts with having enough air intake when necessary.
Re. max speed - was the dyno driver trying to do the test by setting the gear vs only using the automatic - perhaps that would have worked better. In 4th gear he was up to 145 mph and used the snow mode to keep the transmission from dropping down to 3rd or something like that ... He was trying to max the RMP, not the speed.
09-03-12, 08:39 AM
#58
Pole Position
The factory horsepower is the same but for 06+ Lexus had to update the measurement to meet standards. The link I included lets you convert from engine (crank) HP that is quoted by the manufacturers compared to the HP at the wheel measured by the Dyno. So I actually came out above the 288 HP quote for the 06+. I have 55K miles right now so wouldn't expect too much loss is HP.
I didn't want to change the sound by using an Injen air upgrade for example and didn't expect a large change with this intake mod. This is the first step in improving the overall air >> exhaust performance. An improved intake, exhaust and the PPE headers as a group should make a very good improvement but it starts with having enough air intake when necessary.
Re. max speed - was the dyno driver trying to do the test by setting the gear vs only using the automatic - perhaps that would have worked better. In 4th gear he was up to 145 mph and used the snow mode to keep the transmission from dropping down to 3rd or something like that ... He was trying to max the RMP, not the speed.
Last edited by Scarletti; 09-03-12 at 09:04 AM.
04-12-15, 09:07 PM
#59
BFI rev. 2
After I had repairs done from an encounter of the big furry kind, I never got around to redoing my cold BFI - the intake was back to OEM. Yesterday I redid it with some improvements compared to my original posts above.
1. Did a cleaner metal cutting and bending so the 3" ducting would fit to the area infront of the radiator.
2. Used a 3" hole saw on a drill to get a smooth edge hole on the side of the airbox.
3. Mounted the rubber adaptor that comes with the 3" duct through the wall of the air box. I cut the interior edge to help focus the air flow.
4. Purchased more components from Spectre to be able to drop the duct below the air chamber in front of the radiator and point down to the grate through the engine undercover.
- 90o chrome connector
- rectangular headlight air scoop, 4"
- 4 to 3" adaptor
I removed my cooling plate and grill for better access. There is an air block in the air chamber to direct the air coming up from the grate in the engine under cover. I needed to remove that in order to place the rectanguler scoop (facing down) and attached 90o connector and ducting. I cut off an inch of plastic from both side of the scoop so it would fit under the air block. See following pictures.
Integrated system before trimming the scoop.
1. Did a cleaner metal cutting and bending so the 3" ducting would fit to the area infront of the radiator.
2. Used a 3" hole saw on a drill to get a smooth edge hole on the side of the airbox.
3. Mounted the rubber adaptor that comes with the 3" duct through the wall of the air box. I cut the interior edge to help focus the air flow.
4. Purchased more components from Spectre to be able to drop the duct below the air chamber in front of the radiator and point down to the grate through the engine undercover.
- 90o chrome connector
- rectangular headlight air scoop, 4"
- 4 to 3" adaptor
I removed my cooling plate and grill for better access. There is an air block in the air chamber to direct the air coming up from the grate in the engine under cover. I needed to remove that in order to place the rectanguler scoop (facing down) and attached 90o connector and ducting. I cut off an inch of plastic from both side of the scoop so it would fit under the air block. See following pictures.
Integrated system before trimming the scoop.