What is a good cost to resurface rotors?
01-10-10, 11:11 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
What is a good cost to resurface rotors?
I wanted to know what you guys would expect to resurface rotors. I've had squeaky brakes since I bought the car and they dealer kept bull****ting by saying it was the weather, moisture, new brake pads blah blah...now those idiots finally tell me that the rotors need to be resurfaced and it will be $210...which sounds way too much because I could probably buy new rotors / brake pads for $100 more?
01-10-10, 12:45 PM
#2
I would be in the face of the dealer They are the professionals. Most times if you need new pads they usually cut the rotors otherwise you risk the problem you know have. If they are a Lexus dealership they know better then to not have cut them to begin with. i WOULD MAKE THEM EAT IT . Costs are higher now because they have to pull wheels and
brake them down again to get rotors off. Your right new rotors can be had all around for less then $ 150.00
brake them down again to get rotors off. Your right new rotors can be had all around for less then $ 150.00
01-10-10, 01:47 PM
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks Mrblister...I'm hoping they fix this because its quite ridiculous...I've not had my car in 4+ weeks as its been sitting at Lexus (I will write my saga when I get my car back) because it has an "internal brake leak" on which they have not done **** to fix it until this past Friday when they ordered the parts. My service manager was trying to get these the used-car manager to pay for this service and I have no idea why it took him 4 weeks to convince him but they said they will work on the brakes though I may have to take care of the re-surfacing the rotors..?
01-10-10, 01:49 PM
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I'm not willing to throw any money on this car which supposedly went through the "192 point inspection and for our fee we can make the car a CPO"..."but we do promise the car should give you no trouble"...
01-10-10, 02:05 PM
#5
^^^ +1 agreed completely with mrblister on them eating it. Unless you clearly declined them resurfacing the rotors/turning them when you got pads, if they said they didn't need to be done at the time then it's their negligence. Every brake pad job I've practically gotten done in my life I have been convinced to do so. Lexus is no exception. It's like peanut butter and jelly-the two always go together.
I would use the term "negligence" with them--good, sturdy legal term!
I would use the term "negligence" with them--good, sturdy legal term!
01-10-10, 02:19 PM
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
^Lexus of North Miami have been the definition of negligent from my experiences thus far...seriously I'll have to sit down one day and write for an hour about all the bs I've gone through with my beloved SC...
01-10-10, 02:21 PM
#7
can you quit them right after this brake ordeal and go to another, or are they closer to you and it's not worth the drive time? I go way out of my way to go to Sewell Lexus 30 miles away here in Dallas because I don't like Park Place and they are 3 miles from my house.
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01-10-10, 06:12 PM
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
You guys it gets worse...way worse...just a tid bit...
As you may recall a few months ago I was love tapped at a light...I got the car inspected at another Lexus with a body shop and they said the tap caused 0 damage and they took off the bumper and gave it a legit inspection with pictures. BUT they said that the car had a good bit of undercarriage damage (I took pics) and three of the four shock absorber casings (? when I get my car back I will post the exact names of everything) were cracked. I was pretty pissed because when I got the car they said it was ready to be certified (and it went through the rigorous inspection) if I wanted to pay the $3k fee for 3 yrs / 100k miles, but I passed as they said the car was in perfect condition. The body absolutely was--I even took a paint meter to check it out.
Anyway, I took it back to Lex of North Miami and they said the car was drivable and it shouldn't be a problem--I'm very skeptical and am going to take it to JM Lexus as soon as they give me back my car and I want whatever damage it is to be fixed. I've had the car there for a month and they haven't done anything so once they fix it I will def complain I think to the regional manager or whom else? Its ridiculous but I'm way too busy at school to bring the car in every few weeks for the squeaky brakes or the brake lights going off. They were so inept it took 5 brake fluid re-fills to find out that it was an "internal leak" and that the squeaky brakes were because a need to resurface rotors. I remember the day I bought it they said the car needed time for the new pads to "wear in" which I thought was BS.
Scdroptop: I would NEVER take it to Lexus of North Miami for anything I'd go to JM Lexus near my parents place as they are very honest and sincere in our years of experience with them. Furthermore, they are always looking to hook you up...in high school I took my old IS300 there for oil changes and literally 1/4 they would say were on the house! We also bought a LS430 from a small dealership and I took it to JM to inspect. It costs $100 for the inspection, but one of the greeters said that I rather pay $45 for an oil change and he will get the tech to look the car over and inspect it (they spent nearly an hour on the car looking it over) and they encouraged me to buy the car even though it was not from there dealership...talk about a legit place...
As you may recall a few months ago I was love tapped at a light...I got the car inspected at another Lexus with a body shop and they said the tap caused 0 damage and they took off the bumper and gave it a legit inspection with pictures. BUT they said that the car had a good bit of undercarriage damage (I took pics) and three of the four shock absorber casings (? when I get my car back I will post the exact names of everything) were cracked. I was pretty pissed because when I got the car they said it was ready to be certified (and it went through the rigorous inspection) if I wanted to pay the $3k fee for 3 yrs / 100k miles, but I passed as they said the car was in perfect condition. The body absolutely was--I even took a paint meter to check it out.
Anyway, I took it back to Lex of North Miami and they said the car was drivable and it shouldn't be a problem--I'm very skeptical and am going to take it to JM Lexus as soon as they give me back my car and I want whatever damage it is to be fixed. I've had the car there for a month and they haven't done anything so once they fix it I will def complain I think to the regional manager or whom else? Its ridiculous but I'm way too busy at school to bring the car in every few weeks for the squeaky brakes or the brake lights going off. They were so inept it took 5 brake fluid re-fills to find out that it was an "internal leak" and that the squeaky brakes were because a need to resurface rotors. I remember the day I bought it they said the car needed time for the new pads to "wear in" which I thought was BS.
Scdroptop: I would NEVER take it to Lexus of North Miami for anything I'd go to JM Lexus near my parents place as they are very honest and sincere in our years of experience with them. Furthermore, they are always looking to hook you up...in high school I took my old IS300 there for oil changes and literally 1/4 they would say were on the house! We also bought a LS430 from a small dealership and I took it to JM to inspect. It costs $100 for the inspection, but one of the greeters said that I rather pay $45 for an oil change and he will get the tech to look the car over and inspect it (they spent nearly an hour on the car looking it over) and they encouraged me to buy the car even though it was not from there dealership...talk about a legit place...
01-11-10, 05:45 AM
#10
Intermediate
I have found that it is the pads that cause the squeek,not the rotors. Unless you feel a vibration when you apply the brakes the rorots are probably good.
If you put cheap pads on used(or new) rotors more than likey they will make noise. Good quality pads (especially with teflon backing) won't make any noise on used or new rotors. If they left off the antivibration clips will also make the brakes noisy.
If you put cheap pads on used(or new) rotors more than likey they will make noise. Good quality pads (especially with teflon backing) won't make any noise on used or new rotors. If they left off the antivibration clips will also make the brakes noisy.
01-11-10, 09:53 AM
#11
...I'm about to put new pads on mine also....I'm having the same prob as IStoSC...but it only does it when the weather changes and there is alot of humidity or after I washed the car. Usually,after I've hit the breaks a couple of times it stops, so I'm assuming that it's drying the pads/rotor ???
01-11-10, 09:58 AM
#12
Intermediate
WHERE BRAKE NOISE COMES FROM
Brake squeal is caused by high frequency vibrations. When the brakes are applied and the pads contact the rotors, tiny surface irregularities in the rotors act like speed bumps causing the pads to jump and skip as they scrape against the rotors. This, in turn, causes the pads to shake and vibrate in the calipers and against the caliper pistons. It also causes the calipers to shake and vibrate on their mounts and bushings. The greater the play between all of these parts, the greater the amplitude of the vibrations and the louder the squeal. The rhythmic vibrations of the pads rubbing against the rotors also creates harmonic vibrations in the rotors that causes them to ring like a cymbal. The areas generating the most noise can be seen with special laboratory equipment that uses a laser to scan the surface. Changes in color reveal the intensity and frequency of the vibrations. Researchers have found that rotor vibrations are not uniform all the way around a noisy rotor. The rotor has certain spots or "nodes" that oscillate more than other areas. By redesigning the casting and changing the location of the cooling fins between the rotor faces, some of this noise can be tuned out (a good reason to use replacement rotors that have the same cooling configuration as the original!).
Even the metallurgy of the rotors makes a difference. Some grades of cast iron are quieter than others. That's one of the reasons why composite rotors have been used on various vehicles over the years. Besides being lighter, composite rotors can also be quieter if the right grade of cast iron is used for the rotor disk. Replacing a composite rotor with a solid cast rotor changes the harmonics and frequency of the brake system, which may increase brake noise on some applications.
Rotor finish also affects noise. The smoother and flatter the surface, the less the likelihood of the pads chattering and dancing as they ride across the surface. Rotors should be resurfaced at the proper speed and feed rate, and with sharp tool bits to achieve the smoothest possible finish. Light sanding with an abrasive disk or flexible honing brush after the rotors have been turned can improve the surface finish even more and provide an extra degree of assurance the rotors will remain noise-free.
To achieve the quietest possible brakes, some brake suppliers are now offering "application engineered" rotors that are designed to match the noise, friction and cooling characteristics of the OEM rotors. This approach, they say, reduces the risk of creating noisy brakes when the rotors are replaced.
Equally important are the pads themselves. Some friction materials are noisier than others, just as some brands of pads are quieter than others. The sound control qualities of any friction material depends on the fillers, lubricants and other ingredients that go into the mix. Some manufacturers add graphite and other materials to pads to dampen noise.
The design of the pads also influences their ability to suppress noise. If the leading edge of the pads has a sharp edge, it increases the tendency to grab and bounce more than if the leading edge is chamfered. That's why most premium grade brake pads have chamfered edges. The pads may also have a slot down the middle to increase flexibility, cooling and venting. Some pads also have integrally molded shims and a multi-layer construction to reduce noise.
Some friction suppliers use "Transfer Film Technology" (TFT) to prevent noise. TFT is not a coating on the pads, but part of the friction material itself. As the pads wear, they continuously transfer a very thin film to the rotor surface. This film, which leaves a dull gray coating on the rotors, fills in tiny imperfections in the rotor surface to make it smoother and more compatible with the pads, thus eliminating squeal-producing vibrations. This also eliminates the need for shims behind the pads to dampen vibrations (unless required by the OEM caliper design). This is because the coating prevents the pads from vibrating in the first place. And unlike spray-on noise treatments which eventually wear off the rotor surface, TFT lasts the life of the pads because it is part of the pads.
FINDING THE SQUEALS
When inspecting the brake system, pay close attention to how tightly the pads fit in the calipers, and if any shims behind the pads are loose or badly corroded. Stainless steel shims are pretty durable, but plain steel shims have no corrosion resistance and become badly corroded after a few years of service (especially in wet climates or northern climates where a lot of road salt is used). As the rust builds up, it pushes the pads away from the caliper and increases the risk of vibration and noise. Badly corroded shims can also crumble and fall apart leaving a big gap behind all or part of the pad.
Also look for missing, broken or loose anti-rattle clips (if used). These parts are often overlooked or omitted when brake pads are replaced. But if they were used on the OEM pads, they were there for a purpose and should be reused or replaced to maintain the same dampening characteristics of the brake system.
Should you find a pad where the friction material has separated or broken loose from the backing plate, the pad must be replaced immediately. This is a dangerous condition that can lead to brake failure.
Pay close attention to the caliper mounts. Play or wear between the caliper and its bushings or mountings can be a source of noise. So too can rough grooved rotors or improperly finished rotors. Also, look for discoloration or glazed patches on the rotors that would indicate hard spots and uneven wear. Replace rotors with hard spots or severe cracking.
If an inspection of the brake system reveals no serious faults such as worn, loose or damaged parts, you have a choice to make. You can live with the noise, or you can pay to eliminate the noise. The fix typically involves replacing the pads and resurfacing the rotors.
REPLACING THE PADS
Semi-metallic pads and those with a high metallic content tend to be more noisy than low-metallic pads or those with little or no steel or iron content. Semi-metallic pads are required on many applications to handle high brake temperatures.
If different replacement pads are substituted for semi-metallics and they can't handle the heat, you may end up trading a noise problem for a pad wear problem.
The best results are usually obtained by installing premium pads. Look for ones that use stainless steel shims rather than plain steel shims, or that have integrally molded shims. Most premium pads also have chamfers and slots to reduce noise. Some also have a multi-layer construction with a softer friction material on top to improve break-in and noise control during the first few hundred miles of operation.
If new pads are installed without shims, applying a brake noise compound to the backs of the pads will help keep them quiet and reduce the risk of a noise-related comeback. Most of these products are a high temperature RTV silicone based material that forms a pliable and durable cushion on the backs of the pads. The material must be allowed to cure 30 to 60 minutes before the pads are positioned in the rotors. Do not get any of this material on the front of the pads.
Another way to dampen noise-producing vibrations is to apply a high temperature brake lubricant to the backs of the pads, and the points where the pads contact the caliper. Lubricating the caliper mounts, shims and bushings is also recommended to dampen vibrations here. The lubricant acts as a cushion to dampen vibrations. It also helps the parts slide smoothly so the pads wear evenly (uneven pad wear is a classic symptom of a floating caliper that is sticking and not centering itself over the rotor).
The key here is using the right kind of lubricant. The lubricant must be heat resistant so it won't melt and run off the pads, and it must be durable so it will provide long-lasting protection. Synthetic lubricants that contain moly are a good choice for this type of application.
Never use ordinary chassis grease or silicone brake grease for this purpose. Also, do not allow the lubricant to come into contact with the fronts of the pads or the rotor face. Keep it on the backs of the pads and the pad contact points.
Another trick that can be used to dampen noise is to spray the rotors with an aerosol product designed to dampen noise and assist pad break-in. Spray-on surface treatments obviously don't last forever, but they can help dampen noise for several hundred to several thousand miles depending on how often the brakes are used. These products typically contain lubricants and microfine aluminum particles.
According to one manufacturer who makes a spray-on rotor treatment, the particles form a molecular bond with the rotor surface and creates a "composite" surface that allows for a more controlled burnish as the new pads seat in. The result is less vibration, no annoying noise and a smoother feel.
ROTOR FINISH
Rotor finish also plays a big role in reducing noise. If you cut your own rotors, keep your lathe bits sharp.
Rotors must be clean, smooth, flat and within OEM specifications to keep noise at bay. The recommended rotor finish for most applications is 60 to 80 microinches or less. A range of 20 to 50 microinches will usually guarantee quiet operation even on vehicles that are sensitive to brake noise.
Composite rotors require special care when resurfacing because they lack the rigidity of cast rotors. The rotor needs to be supported by large bell caps or adapters otherwise it may flex leaving tool chatter marks on the surface. The other alternative is to use an on-car lathe to resurface composite rotors.
Use a slow feed rate to achieve the finest finish. Don't rush the job or you'll end up with rough, grooved rotors that grab the pads and generate noise. Also, remember to wash the rotors with soapy water and a brush after they have been turned to remove residue you don't want to be embedded in the new pads.
A properly turned rotor that is within OEM surface finish specifications should not require any additional sanding. Even so, many people feel sanding with #150 grit abrasive or a flexible bead style rotor finishing brush improves the rotor surface and reduces the risk of squeal.
If sanding with a flexible bead brush, use a drill speed of 300 to 600 rpm (never exceed 1,000 rpm) and bring the tool into contact with the rotor at a slight angle. Use light uniform pressure and keep the brush moving. Ten to fifteen seconds of brushing clockwise followed by 5 to 10 seconds of counterclockwise should product the desired finish.
From Brake & Front End Magazine
Brake squeal is caused by high frequency vibrations. When the brakes are applied and the pads contact the rotors, tiny surface irregularities in the rotors act like speed bumps causing the pads to jump and skip as they scrape against the rotors. This, in turn, causes the pads to shake and vibrate in the calipers and against the caliper pistons. It also causes the calipers to shake and vibrate on their mounts and bushings. The greater the play between all of these parts, the greater the amplitude of the vibrations and the louder the squeal. The rhythmic vibrations of the pads rubbing against the rotors also creates harmonic vibrations in the rotors that causes them to ring like a cymbal. The areas generating the most noise can be seen with special laboratory equipment that uses a laser to scan the surface. Changes in color reveal the intensity and frequency of the vibrations. Researchers have found that rotor vibrations are not uniform all the way around a noisy rotor. The rotor has certain spots or "nodes" that oscillate more than other areas. By redesigning the casting and changing the location of the cooling fins between the rotor faces, some of this noise can be tuned out (a good reason to use replacement rotors that have the same cooling configuration as the original!).
Even the metallurgy of the rotors makes a difference. Some grades of cast iron are quieter than others. That's one of the reasons why composite rotors have been used on various vehicles over the years. Besides being lighter, composite rotors can also be quieter if the right grade of cast iron is used for the rotor disk. Replacing a composite rotor with a solid cast rotor changes the harmonics and frequency of the brake system, which may increase brake noise on some applications.
Rotor finish also affects noise. The smoother and flatter the surface, the less the likelihood of the pads chattering and dancing as they ride across the surface. Rotors should be resurfaced at the proper speed and feed rate, and with sharp tool bits to achieve the smoothest possible finish. Light sanding with an abrasive disk or flexible honing brush after the rotors have been turned can improve the surface finish even more and provide an extra degree of assurance the rotors will remain noise-free.
To achieve the quietest possible brakes, some brake suppliers are now offering "application engineered" rotors that are designed to match the noise, friction and cooling characteristics of the OEM rotors. This approach, they say, reduces the risk of creating noisy brakes when the rotors are replaced.
Equally important are the pads themselves. Some friction materials are noisier than others, just as some brands of pads are quieter than others. The sound control qualities of any friction material depends on the fillers, lubricants and other ingredients that go into the mix. Some manufacturers add graphite and other materials to pads to dampen noise.
The design of the pads also influences their ability to suppress noise. If the leading edge of the pads has a sharp edge, it increases the tendency to grab and bounce more than if the leading edge is chamfered. That's why most premium grade brake pads have chamfered edges. The pads may also have a slot down the middle to increase flexibility, cooling and venting. Some pads also have integrally molded shims and a multi-layer construction to reduce noise.
Some friction suppliers use "Transfer Film Technology" (TFT) to prevent noise. TFT is not a coating on the pads, but part of the friction material itself. As the pads wear, they continuously transfer a very thin film to the rotor surface. This film, which leaves a dull gray coating on the rotors, fills in tiny imperfections in the rotor surface to make it smoother and more compatible with the pads, thus eliminating squeal-producing vibrations. This also eliminates the need for shims behind the pads to dampen vibrations (unless required by the OEM caliper design). This is because the coating prevents the pads from vibrating in the first place. And unlike spray-on noise treatments which eventually wear off the rotor surface, TFT lasts the life of the pads because it is part of the pads.
FINDING THE SQUEALS
When inspecting the brake system, pay close attention to how tightly the pads fit in the calipers, and if any shims behind the pads are loose or badly corroded. Stainless steel shims are pretty durable, but plain steel shims have no corrosion resistance and become badly corroded after a few years of service (especially in wet climates or northern climates where a lot of road salt is used). As the rust builds up, it pushes the pads away from the caliper and increases the risk of vibration and noise. Badly corroded shims can also crumble and fall apart leaving a big gap behind all or part of the pad.
Also look for missing, broken or loose anti-rattle clips (if used). These parts are often overlooked or omitted when brake pads are replaced. But if they were used on the OEM pads, they were there for a purpose and should be reused or replaced to maintain the same dampening characteristics of the brake system.
Should you find a pad where the friction material has separated or broken loose from the backing plate, the pad must be replaced immediately. This is a dangerous condition that can lead to brake failure.
Pay close attention to the caliper mounts. Play or wear between the caliper and its bushings or mountings can be a source of noise. So too can rough grooved rotors or improperly finished rotors. Also, look for discoloration or glazed patches on the rotors that would indicate hard spots and uneven wear. Replace rotors with hard spots or severe cracking.
If an inspection of the brake system reveals no serious faults such as worn, loose or damaged parts, you have a choice to make. You can live with the noise, or you can pay to eliminate the noise. The fix typically involves replacing the pads and resurfacing the rotors.
REPLACING THE PADS
Semi-metallic pads and those with a high metallic content tend to be more noisy than low-metallic pads or those with little or no steel or iron content. Semi-metallic pads are required on many applications to handle high brake temperatures.
If different replacement pads are substituted for semi-metallics and they can't handle the heat, you may end up trading a noise problem for a pad wear problem.
The best results are usually obtained by installing premium pads. Look for ones that use stainless steel shims rather than plain steel shims, or that have integrally molded shims. Most premium pads also have chamfers and slots to reduce noise. Some also have a multi-layer construction with a softer friction material on top to improve break-in and noise control during the first few hundred miles of operation.
If new pads are installed without shims, applying a brake noise compound to the backs of the pads will help keep them quiet and reduce the risk of a noise-related comeback. Most of these products are a high temperature RTV silicone based material that forms a pliable and durable cushion on the backs of the pads. The material must be allowed to cure 30 to 60 minutes before the pads are positioned in the rotors. Do not get any of this material on the front of the pads.
Another way to dampen noise-producing vibrations is to apply a high temperature brake lubricant to the backs of the pads, and the points where the pads contact the caliper. Lubricating the caliper mounts, shims and bushings is also recommended to dampen vibrations here. The lubricant acts as a cushion to dampen vibrations. It also helps the parts slide smoothly so the pads wear evenly (uneven pad wear is a classic symptom of a floating caliper that is sticking and not centering itself over the rotor).
The key here is using the right kind of lubricant. The lubricant must be heat resistant so it won't melt and run off the pads, and it must be durable so it will provide long-lasting protection. Synthetic lubricants that contain moly are a good choice for this type of application.
Never use ordinary chassis grease or silicone brake grease for this purpose. Also, do not allow the lubricant to come into contact with the fronts of the pads or the rotor face. Keep it on the backs of the pads and the pad contact points.
Another trick that can be used to dampen noise is to spray the rotors with an aerosol product designed to dampen noise and assist pad break-in. Spray-on surface treatments obviously don't last forever, but they can help dampen noise for several hundred to several thousand miles depending on how often the brakes are used. These products typically contain lubricants and microfine aluminum particles.
According to one manufacturer who makes a spray-on rotor treatment, the particles form a molecular bond with the rotor surface and creates a "composite" surface that allows for a more controlled burnish as the new pads seat in. The result is less vibration, no annoying noise and a smoother feel.
ROTOR FINISH
Rotor finish also plays a big role in reducing noise. If you cut your own rotors, keep your lathe bits sharp.
Rotors must be clean, smooth, flat and within OEM specifications to keep noise at bay. The recommended rotor finish for most applications is 60 to 80 microinches or less. A range of 20 to 50 microinches will usually guarantee quiet operation even on vehicles that are sensitive to brake noise.
Composite rotors require special care when resurfacing because they lack the rigidity of cast rotors. The rotor needs to be supported by large bell caps or adapters otherwise it may flex leaving tool chatter marks on the surface. The other alternative is to use an on-car lathe to resurface composite rotors.
Use a slow feed rate to achieve the finest finish. Don't rush the job or you'll end up with rough, grooved rotors that grab the pads and generate noise. Also, remember to wash the rotors with soapy water and a brush after they have been turned to remove residue you don't want to be embedded in the new pads.
A properly turned rotor that is within OEM surface finish specifications should not require any additional sanding. Even so, many people feel sanding with #150 grit abrasive or a flexible bead style rotor finishing brush improves the rotor surface and reduces the risk of squeal.
If sanding with a flexible bead brush, use a drill speed of 300 to 600 rpm (never exceed 1,000 rpm) and bring the tool into contact with the rotor at a slight angle. Use light uniform pressure and keep the brush moving. Ten to fifteen seconds of brushing clockwise followed by 5 to 10 seconds of counterclockwise should product the desired finish.
From Brake & Front End Magazine
01-11-10, 04:11 PM
#14
Lexus service must be a little better here up north. My brakes had been making some noise for a while now and last time it was serviced they assured me that everything was fine and I had plenty of life left on my pads.
01-12-10, 05:09 AM
#15
Exactly why I do them myself!
This is exactly why I do brakes myself and always replace the rotors with the pads. My cost for 4 wheels ends up being $200-$300 and I never have to deal with the "Stealership". A complete brake job takes about 3 hours or so and when I'm done I know it's right.
Brakes are used to make incredible amounts of money for dealers because of the "scare factor". You wouldn't want to do it wrong and then not be able to stop! Good advice, but I got over it about 35 years ago when my dad showed me how to change the drum brakes on my Corvair. Talk about a car that had issues! Brakes were the least of the problems.
Since then every car we have owned and many of my kids friend's cars have had brakes put on in our garage. Nice thing is I have already done my future son-in-law's Land Cruiser so I have already had my practice on Toyota/Lexus brakes. They are no more complicated than anything else out there. I will be changing pads and rotors on the wife's SC in the next month or so.
I realize everyone doesn't have the talent or desire to dig into brake jobs but if people actually knew how straightforward they are to replace there would be a lot less complaining about poor dealer service, Or maybe more?
Brakes are used to make incredible amounts of money for dealers because of the "scare factor". You wouldn't want to do it wrong and then not be able to stop! Good advice, but I got over it about 35 years ago when my dad showed me how to change the drum brakes on my Corvair. Talk about a car that had issues! Brakes were the least of the problems.
Since then every car we have owned and many of my kids friend's cars have had brakes put on in our garage. Nice thing is I have already done my future son-in-law's Land Cruiser so I have already had my practice on Toyota/Lexus brakes. They are no more complicated than anything else out there. I will be changing pads and rotors on the wife's SC in the next month or so.
I realize everyone doesn't have the talent or desire to dig into brake jobs but if people actually knew how straightforward they are to replace there would be a lot less complaining about poor dealer service, Or maybe more?
