VSC lights: where are the wheel sensors?
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VSC lights: where are the wheel sensors?
Well my VSC warning lights came on yesterday. I read the other threads on this and apparently it is probably the wheel sensor. My front tires have a tendency to rub the wheel wells on tight turns (20 inch rims), so that might have something to do with it.
I know the wheel sensors (speed sensors, ABS sensors, whatever they are called) are in the wheel well area, but what do they look like? how do I get to them? and how should I troubleshoot them?
I'll try to get the codes (if any) pulled (autozone will scan it for free I hear, or I'll pick up an OBDII scanner). If it does tell me it is the wheel sensor, is this something where I can clean off the sensor, or maybe hook up a multimeter and check resistance to see if it is a good sensor? A quick step-by-step DIY troubleshooting would be much appreciated.
Thus far, I have unplugged the negative terminal of the battery to see if the lights will come back. so far 25 miles and no lights....yet. As much as the wire trick mentioned on the other thread (connecting jumpers of the OBDII port with a wire to reset the light) sounds interesting , I haven't done it yet. Anyone want to fill me in anything else it could be...maybe this whole thing about resetting the Yaw sensor?
Also, on a separate issue, prior to unplugging the battery its been idling really rough (usually noticeable at a red light). I'm going to get some throttle body cleaner and give that a shot, probably put some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank, and maybe hit the MAF sensor with some electronics cleaner. Any other tips?
Thanks.
I know the wheel sensors (speed sensors, ABS sensors, whatever they are called) are in the wheel well area, but what do they look like? how do I get to them? and how should I troubleshoot them?
I'll try to get the codes (if any) pulled (autozone will scan it for free I hear, or I'll pick up an OBDII scanner). If it does tell me it is the wheel sensor, is this something where I can clean off the sensor, or maybe hook up a multimeter and check resistance to see if it is a good sensor? A quick step-by-step DIY troubleshooting would be much appreciated.
Thus far, I have unplugged the negative terminal of the battery to see if the lights will come back. so far 25 miles and no lights....yet. As much as the wire trick mentioned on the other thread (connecting jumpers of the OBDII port with a wire to reset the light) sounds interesting , I haven't done it yet. Anyone want to fill me in anything else it could be...maybe this whole thing about resetting the Yaw sensor?
Also, on a separate issue, prior to unplugging the battery its been idling really rough (usually noticeable at a red light). I'm going to get some throttle body cleaner and give that a shot, probably put some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank, and maybe hit the MAF sensor with some electronics cleaner. Any other tips?
Thanks.
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The above pics are the tire pressure sensors, not wheel sensors. The wheel sensor is a long (18" or so) that runs from the wheel hub assembly to the car. As it is most likely a front sensor when you look at the strut assembly you will see the cable attached to it with a 10mm bolt. It takes a little digging to detach it from the inside as it is behind a few plastic shields but very doable.
See it in the lower left on the picture below
See it in the lower left on the picture below
Last edited by Pearlpower; 07-04-08 at 11:39 PM.
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The above pics are the tire pressure sensors, not wheel sensors. The wheel sensor is a long (18" or so) that runs from the wheel hub assembly to the car. As it is most likely a front sensor when you look at the strut assembly you will see the cable attached to it with a 10mm bolt. It takes a little digging to detach it from the inside as it is behind a few plastic shields but very doable.
See it in the lower left on the picture below
See it in the lower left on the picture below
I have thus far poured Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner, Sprayed my MAF sensor with CRC electronics cleaner, and used CRC throttle body cleaner and a rag to wipe off the throttle body and the butterfly valve. Why do I still have the intermittent sputtering and rough Idle, unplugging the battery m aybe?
Thanks.
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I am having the same issues with my 1998 GS400. VSC lights are on and it runs alittle rough at times. I am going to pull the codes. I am wondering if you were able to pinpoint the issue and know the fix.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
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Thanks for the info. As soon as I get an ODB-II scanner, I'll update you guys on the codes found. My car has been idling really rough and even sputtering on the freeway when I am off of the gas. Would a faulty wheel sensor cause that? Right now, the warning lights that are on are VSC, VSC Off, and Check Engine. Those lights came back after unplugging the negative terminal of the battery and driving it about 40 miles.
I have thus far poured Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner, Sprayed my MAF sensor with CRC electronics cleaner, and used CRC throttle body cleaner and a rag to wipe off the throttle body and the butterfly valve. Why do I still have the intermittent sputtering and rough Idle, unplugging the battery m aybe?
Thanks.
I have thus far poured Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner, Sprayed my MAF sensor with CRC electronics cleaner, and used CRC throttle body cleaner and a rag to wipe off the throttle body and the butterfly valve. Why do I still have the intermittent sputtering and rough Idle, unplugging the battery m aybe?
Thanks.
Hopefully if anyone else has a misfire issue. This will serve as a quick diagnostic guide.
To diagnose it, I first checked all the spark plugs. Swapped spark plugs to see if the misfire would follow to another cylinder. Still cylinder 6 misfire.
Then checked the coil packs and swapped them to see if the misfire would follow to another cylinder. Still cylinder 6 misfire.
Then checked the fuel injectors to see if they were working. Using a long screw driver, I put one end against the fuel injector and the other end against my ear (make-shift stethoscope) to listen to each fuel injector individually. Thats how the bad fuel injector was discovered. Then by acccident, we found out it was the wiring rather than the injector itself, so we didn't have to swap fuel injectors to see if the misfire would follow to another cylinder.
No more misfire, and all is well.
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