Tein Cs Install rate
#1
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Tein Cs Install rate
So i purchased some Tien CS coilovers a couple months ago but because of MN winters i chose not to put it in yet. Initially i was planning on installing them myself, however, life has gotten way to busy and now im thinking of getting it done through a shop. Unfortunately there aint to many in MN, especially that I trust. Whats the normal install rate for front and rear coilovers. Ive been quoted at $390 and am not sure if this is a good price or not. They estimate the install to take 4 hrs, so about $75 and hour. Good deal?
Lastly, for and average mechanic with 4 guys working on this at the same time, how long would it take to do it ourselves. Ive never done a coilover install but worked on a ton of cars. Thanks! By the way..Happy New Years!
Lastly, for and average mechanic with 4 guys working on this at the same time, how long would it take to do it ourselves. Ive never done a coilover install but worked on a ton of cars. Thanks! By the way..Happy New Years!
#2
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install rates are all regional. in socal it's always cheap. some areas are super expensive coz' of lack of skilled mechanics. here in cali, paying 200 and you are almost "overpaying"
one tech and it will take 2 to 2 1/2 hr at most to change it (a good tech). 4 techs working on the same car? that's so unheard of here in cali. but if they are given separate tools (so they don't have to wait for each other? maybe 1/2 hour to 45 mins?
one tech and it will take 2 to 2 1/2 hr at most to change it (a good tech). 4 techs working on the same car? that's so unheard of here in cali. but if they are given separate tools (so they don't have to wait for each other? maybe 1/2 hour to 45 mins?
#3
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I can always count on you to reply Rominl.
So you are saying I could do it myself. The only thing i do not have is a lift, which will probably make it a little tougher.
Another question - after they are installed, how easy is it to adjust the settings. I bought them used, so i only got the wrenches. Was there another tool that came with the original package?
So you are saying I could do it myself. The only thing i do not have is a lift, which will probably make it a little tougher.
Another question - after they are installed, how easy is it to adjust the settings. I bought them used, so i only got the wrenches. Was there another tool that came with the original package?
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well, it's doable, my friend did it. but it's definitely tougher. and you need to be careful to make sure you know what you are doing
it's not hard to adjust the height, you just need to take off the wheels and use those wrenches. the dampening, front is easy, right there in the engine bay. rear is pain in the butt coz' of all the linings
it's not hard to adjust the height, you just need to take off the wheels and use those wrenches. the dampening, front is easy, right there in the engine bay. rear is pain in the butt coz' of all the linings
#6
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I just installed Tein Cs this week. The hardest part was the removal of the linings in the trunk. I do the front a little differently than others here, but it al works out the same.
Time to the do the fronts, maybe an 45 min to an hour and half.
The rears are much easier except for the stupid lining. Basically once the trunk pieces are removed 45 to an hour again.
Tools you will need- flathead screwdriver, 35mm or 40mm torx, 10mm,12mm,14mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets or wrenches.
Top of all the shocks take 14mm or 9/16 if you dont have it.
Bottom of the shock takes a 17 or 19mm( The front was this way. Nut side was 19mm while bolt was 17mm)
For the front shock you will need to loosen the front sway bar(12mm x 2 ) remove the ABS sensor(10mm x1 ). Lee(pearlpower) loosens the bottom of the ball joint I believe?? I just break the top ball joint free and it swings down and pull the shock out. More work, but it's the way I do it. A Castle nut holds the ball joint on. Pull the pin and that nut is 17mm.
For the rear there are two bolts on the bottom. One to hold the shock in place (19mm) and one to hold the rear bar in place(12mm). Then the (3) 14mm nuts on top.
I kick myself in the *** for not taking pics, but Im going to switch to Zeal Coilovers to give the drop I like.
I will try to remember to take pics then.
If I'm wrong, someone correct me.
Time to the do the fronts, maybe an 45 min to an hour and half.
The rears are much easier except for the stupid lining. Basically once the trunk pieces are removed 45 to an hour again.
Tools you will need- flathead screwdriver, 35mm or 40mm torx, 10mm,12mm,14mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets or wrenches.
Top of all the shocks take 14mm or 9/16 if you dont have it.
Bottom of the shock takes a 17 or 19mm( The front was this way. Nut side was 19mm while bolt was 17mm)
For the front shock you will need to loosen the front sway bar(12mm x 2 ) remove the ABS sensor(10mm x1 ). Lee(pearlpower) loosens the bottom of the ball joint I believe?? I just break the top ball joint free and it swings down and pull the shock out. More work, but it's the way I do it. A Castle nut holds the ball joint on. Pull the pin and that nut is 17mm.
For the rear there are two bolts on the bottom. One to hold the shock in place (19mm) and one to hold the rear bar in place(12mm). Then the (3) 14mm nuts on top.
I kick myself in the *** for not taking pics, but Im going to switch to Zeal Coilovers to give the drop I like.
I will try to remember to take pics then.
If I'm wrong, someone correct me.
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Ok..its decided. Ill do these myself and put the 400 to a aero kit (thats probably stupid being that im in MN). Doesnt sound too hard. If i can get them to 200 then i may do it just to save the hassel, but otherwise i think ill be able to do it in 1 afternoon. Thanks all for your help. Ill update you when it is complete.
On a separate note...im having alot of trouble with my daizen sway bars. Lately ive been hearing a clunking noise from the front and im pretty sure its because of the sway bars. As a test i am going about 30 and then I rotate the steering wheel back and forth. Everytime the car leans to the right I hear a clunk on the right. Same thing happens to the left...any ideas?
Lastly, anyone know the part number to the rear endlinks (I think that is what it is called - connects the sway bar to the rear suspension.). The one thats on there broke - the bolt is not fixed in the housing so it rotates as i try to put the nut on.
Thanks again.
On a separate note...im having alot of trouble with my daizen sway bars. Lately ive been hearing a clunking noise from the front and im pretty sure its because of the sway bars. As a test i am going about 30 and then I rotate the steering wheel back and forth. Everytime the car leans to the right I hear a clunk on the right. Same thing happens to the left...any ideas?
Lastly, anyone know the part number to the rear endlinks (I think that is what it is called - connects the sway bar to the rear suspension.). The one thats on there broke - the bolt is not fixed in the housing so it rotates as i try to put the nut on.
Thanks again.
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#8
Lexus Fanatic
On a separate note...im having alot of trouble with my daizen sway bars. Lately ive been hearing a clunking noise from the front and im pretty sure its because of the sway bars. As a test i am going about 30 and then I rotate the steering wheel back and forth. Everytime the car leans to the right I hear a clunk on the right. Same thing happens to the left...any ideas?
I had clunking on my GS and it turned out to be a loose bolt.
I think Rominl had his installed wrong also. I would check to make sure they were installed right.
#9
I'm also planning on drilling through the trunk lining to leave a hole for adjusting the rears (haven't gotten around to it yet). You _might_ want to consider this when you have the trim removed, as it would make locating the correct spot easier.
Note that I have the "older" version of the CS - I believe they came out with a newer version within the past year which may differ in some aspect.
#10
I just got quoted today in So Cal at a place sooooo many people at the "CL of Southern California" forum section raved about his low prices...$400!! WTF??
So where do you recommend me going?
I live in Huntington Beach and work in Orange.
#11
I had mine installed by Tommy with Music Box. $200. Really nice guy. Did a great job. Tell him you were referred by club lexus. 626.823.2853
#12
I just did a quick search on him and nothing but good things to read! Including that he's endorsed by Chuck Norris and he once deliverred a baby!! I'm begining to believe he drinks Dos Equis!!
Thanks Liquid!
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Peter Kim, I was quotes a price of $500 to replace just the springs. Thought that was kinda high so I went to another place and they wouldn't do it unless I bought the springs from them. And they wanted $500.+ to do it and that includes the springs. I am still checking.
#14
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Peter Kim, I was quotes a price of $500 to replace just the springs. Thought that was kinda high so I went to another place and they wouldn't do it unless I bought the springs from them. And they wanted $500.+ to do it and that includes the springs. I am still checking.
#15
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wow, I'm blown away with these prices!!! My tanabe springs only quotes have been way more than that!!!
I checked three places in Dallas-Toyo Dealer, Lexus Dealer that I have connections with and Davenport Motors (a non-franchised repair shop specializing in lexus) and they all were between $650-$800 including alignment. Of course, Lexus dealer includes loaner car, car wash, blah blah blah. I too got the same speach about them not wanting to install non-oem parts and they couldn't warranty anything but the labor if the springs fail, etc.
I checked three places in Dallas-Toyo Dealer, Lexus Dealer that I have connections with and Davenport Motors (a non-franchised repair shop specializing in lexus) and they all were between $650-$800 including alignment. Of course, Lexus dealer includes loaner car, car wash, blah blah blah. I too got the same speach about them not wanting to install non-oem parts and they couldn't warranty anything but the labor if the springs fail, etc.