Help needed with my reverse camera!!!!
#1
Help needed with my reverse camera!!!!
hey guys,
my darling girlfriend (she is typing this for me) bought me a reverse camera for Christmas and i need some help. I have researched a few of the interfaces i would need to integrate the camera into my system and i would like everyones opinion on which one is best for my sc.
the two i found are NavTool ($350) and the VisorView PART# VCI-FRD1 ($300).
considering the price and the specs which would you all recommend.
my darling girlfriend (she is typing this for me) bought me a reverse camera for Christmas and i need some help. I have researched a few of the interfaces i would need to integrate the camera into my system and i would like everyones opinion on which one is best for my sc.
the two i found are NavTool ($350) and the VisorView PART# VCI-FRD1 ($300).
considering the price and the specs which would you all recommend.
#3
I just bought and installed the NavTool interface from "a guy" on eBay (I think it's PearlPower's friend because, it came with instructions by PearlPower!). The interface was $199 and it works GREAT. Installation is a bear though.
Edit: Here's the unit. The eBay ID of the guy is "cardemand"
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lexus-SC430-Navi...QQcmdZViewItem
Edit: Here's the unit. The eBay ID of the guy is "cardemand"
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lexus-SC430-Navi...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by Habious; 12-31-07 at 06:53 AM.
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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I too am considering adding a backup camera to my SC. Is there some better than others as far as clarity and simple installation with the NavTool interface?
Thanks,
lar
Thanks,
lar
#5
I should clarify....The NavTool wasn't exactly hard to install, just time consuming. I think any backup camera system would have the same headaches.
-Getting the camera installed (I used a license-plate-frame camera). Was a real pain getting up behind the bumper to get access to the nuts. I could have just used 2 regular screws but, I wanted my $200 license plate frame to be securely fastened to the car.
-Getting the wiring for the AV switch up to the front of car. You have to take the whole trunk apart to install the NavTool AND take the whole backseat out to run the wire from the trunk area to the passenger area/center console.
-Disconnecting the cables from the back of the navigation unit in the trunk. There's NO room at all behind the nav unit. The ML amp is right in the way (I couldn't figure out how to get that sucker out). Also, once you do get the cables disconnected, there's no play at all in the cables. VERY short.
Connecting/splicing into the reverse wire in the aforementioned nav cables. This was a monstrous plain in the butt for me. Again, mainly due to the fact that there's no play in the wires plus, this is all the way in the very back of the trunk.
But, it works GREAT! And, it worked the first time. The unit is nicely made and the directions are very clear. All of the headaches I went through I would gone through with any other unit. I highly recommend the NavTool interface. But, I'd suggest that you read the directions thoroughly, be as prepared as possible (tools, extra wire, splicing materials, soldering iron, etc) and, be sure you have access to another vehicle to do any running around (I made a total of 5 trips to Radio Shack for various things in 2 days). My butane soldering iron decided to die right in the middle of this project so, I had to send my wife out to Radio Shack to buy a 110V inverter just so I could use my plug-on soldering iron for 2 little wires. Once I had the inverter, I only used it for about 90 seconds but, it was a show-stopper until I got it.
-Getting the camera installed (I used a license-plate-frame camera). Was a real pain getting up behind the bumper to get access to the nuts. I could have just used 2 regular screws but, I wanted my $200 license plate frame to be securely fastened to the car.
-Getting the wiring for the AV switch up to the front of car. You have to take the whole trunk apart to install the NavTool AND take the whole backseat out to run the wire from the trunk area to the passenger area/center console.
-Disconnecting the cables from the back of the navigation unit in the trunk. There's NO room at all behind the nav unit. The ML amp is right in the way (I couldn't figure out how to get that sucker out). Also, once you do get the cables disconnected, there's no play at all in the cables. VERY short.
Connecting/splicing into the reverse wire in the aforementioned nav cables. This was a monstrous plain in the butt for me. Again, mainly due to the fact that there's no play in the wires plus, this is all the way in the very back of the trunk.
But, it works GREAT! And, it worked the first time. The unit is nicely made and the directions are very clear. All of the headaches I went through I would gone through with any other unit. I highly recommend the NavTool interface. But, I'd suggest that you read the directions thoroughly, be as prepared as possible (tools, extra wire, splicing materials, soldering iron, etc) and, be sure you have access to another vehicle to do any running around (I made a total of 5 trips to Radio Shack for various things in 2 days). My butane soldering iron decided to die right in the middle of this project so, I had to send my wife out to Radio Shack to buy a 110V inverter just so I could use my plug-on soldering iron for 2 little wires. Once I had the inverter, I only used it for about 90 seconds but, it was a show-stopper until I got it.
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