Urgent - Need To Remove Transmission Pan - Stuck
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Urgent - Need To Remove Transmission Pan - Stuck
I've got my '02 SC430 in the air and have remove the 18 (yes, 18 not 20 like some later models) bolts securing the transmission pan. Have drained already drained it, too.
My problem is that the pan appears top be almost glued to the transmission with some red gunk (I guess original Lexus permaseal type gasket material). Does anyone have a secret way of prying off the pan without bending the edges?
I tried "coaxing" the pan with a rubber mallet to break the seal loose, but no luck.
I'm going to change my shift pressure as several others have done.
Thanks
My problem is that the pan appears top be almost glued to the transmission with some red gunk (I guess original Lexus permaseal type gasket material). Does anyone have a secret way of prying off the pan without bending the edges?
I tried "coaxing" the pan with a rubber mallet to break the seal loose, but no luck.
I'm going to change my shift pressure as several others have done.
Thanks
#2
I've got my '02 SC430 in the air and have remove the 18 (yes, 18 not 20 like some later models) bolts securing the transmission pan. Have drained already drained it, too.
My problem is that the pan appears top be almost glued to the transmission with some red gunk (I guess original Lexus permaseal type gasket material). Does anyone have a secret way of prying off the pan without bending the edges?
I tried "coaxing" the pan with a rubber mallet to break the seal loose, but no luck.
I'm going to change my shift pressure as several others have done.
Thanks
My problem is that the pan appears top be almost glued to the transmission with some red gunk (I guess original Lexus permaseal type gasket material). Does anyone have a secret way of prying off the pan without bending the edges?
I tried "coaxing" the pan with a rubber mallet to break the seal loose, but no luck.
I'm going to change my shift pressure as several others have done.
Thanks
#3
Lead Lap
I was thinking the same thing, though you might be able to use the wide putty knife to cut through the glue and whatever is there.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
The red stuff is a form in place gasket. Just use a razor or similar tool. I have fine this twice, and it is not too hard. Feel free to PM me if you have questions. This is also a good time to do the valve mod and change the filter..
#5
Is that the way the factory does it or might it have been done afterwards? If it's factory, do they use this technique on any other sealing surfaces? Just curious.
#7
It's not a big deal. Just wondering. I've seen some factory footage of German engines that have gaskets "dispensed" by computer controlled robotics. No gaskets as we know them. I just remember thinking that out in the field, can a mechanic match the precision when making new seals after repairs. I suppose being German machinery, they operate on the assumption they'll never need to be opened up. Thanks.
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#8
Advanced
iTrader: (13)
The pan can be removed by using a blade/boxcutter and cutting the seal. Use a whizz wheel to remove all the sealant from the pan and a blade to clean up the sealant from the transmission side. You can use the gasket by felpro instead of the sealant. I did this a month ago and have no leaks etc. Felpro gaskets are available at autozone.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
You can get a pan removal tool that has a right angle so you hit the head with a mallet. The trick though is to remove the brace on the front side which blocks getting a good whack in to brake the seal. It's hard to get the right leverage from the other directions. Yes this red FIP (form in place) is factory, They use a black FIG for the differential cover and engine. Good luck.
#10
You can get a pan removal tool that has a right angle so you hit the head with a mallet. The trick though is to remove the brace on the front side which blocks getting a good whack in to brake the seal. It's hard to get the right leverage from the other directions. Yes this red FIP (form in place) is factory, They use a black FIG for the differential cover and engine. Good luck.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I appreciate all the good suggestions. After I posted late yesterday I destrung an old guitar and used a couple of different string - no luck. Same with putty knife and razor blade, but I probably did get it started. Eventually I was successful with a thin pry bar - for once I was patient and used it to slowly rock the ban downwards without warping it. The seal finally started breaking and I could work the pan downward starting from the back.
I did make the pressure **** adjustment and used the Fel-pro gasket to close it up after cleaning the pan etc. In total about 4 quarts drained out. I really don't like that factory sealant.
What I didn't expect was having to remove the bracket attached to the engine that secures the cats so that I could get to the 2 interior bolts at the front of the pan.. I used the impact wrench., and so far, no codes.
Refilled 4 quarts and am being very careful in running it.
Again - thanks for all the ideas - sorry I didn't see them until this morning. Now gotta go clean and put away all those dirty tools. This really is a messy job.
I did make the pressure **** adjustment and used the Fel-pro gasket to close it up after cleaning the pan etc. In total about 4 quarts drained out. I really don't like that factory sealant.
What I didn't expect was having to remove the bracket attached to the engine that secures the cats so that I could get to the 2 interior bolts at the front of the pan.. I used the impact wrench., and so far, no codes.
Refilled 4 quarts and am being very careful in running it.
Again - thanks for all the ideas - sorry I didn't see them until this morning. Now gotta go clean and put away all those dirty tools. This really is a messy job.
#12
I appreciate all the good suggestions. After I posted late yesterday I destrung an old guitar and used a couple of different string - no luck. Same with putty knife and razor blade, but I probably did get it started. Eventually I was successful with a thin pry bar - for once I was patient and used it to slowly rock the ban downwards without warping it. The seal finally started breaking and I could work the pan downward starting from the back.
I did make the pressure **** adjustment and used the Fel-pro gasket to close it up after cleaning the pan etc. In total about 4 quarts drained out. I really don't like that factory sealant.
What I didn't expect was having to remove the bracket attached to the engine that secures the cats so that I could get to the 2 interior bolts at the front of the pan.. I used the impact wrench., and so far, no codes.
Refilled 4 quarts and am being very careful in running it.
Again - thanks for all the ideas - sorry I didn't see them until this morning. Now gotta go clean and put away all those dirty tools. This really is a messy job.
I did make the pressure **** adjustment and used the Fel-pro gasket to close it up after cleaning the pan etc. In total about 4 quarts drained out. I really don't like that factory sealant.
What I didn't expect was having to remove the bracket attached to the engine that secures the cats so that I could get to the 2 interior bolts at the front of the pan.. I used the impact wrench., and so far, no codes.
Refilled 4 quarts and am being very careful in running it.
Again - thanks for all the ideas - sorry I didn't see them until this morning. Now gotta go clean and put away all those dirty tools. This really is a messy job.
#13
Intermediate
I was prepared to change the transmission screen/filter, clean out the pan, and replenish the (4qts?) of Type-IV this weekend. I thought I had all the tools I needed, but ran into two things unexpected. So I simply drained the fluid and replenished and saved the task for another day.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
#14
Driver School Candidate
I was prepared to change the transmission screen/filter, clean out the pan, and replenish the (4qts?) of Type-IV this weekend. I thought I had all the tools I needed, but ran into two things unexpected. So I simply drained the fluid and replenished and saved the task for another day.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
And 2) on my GS the dipstick tube is about 2 feet long and it goes inside the tube coming out of the tranny. There's a rounded l shaped tube coming upward at a forward angle and the junction is 3 to 5 inches above the corner of the l shape. You have to find a section that looks like it telescopes into another section, and bang the male end with the end of a breaker bar or something else (like tapping a pickle jar) to free it. Then pull upward.
#15
I was prepared to change the transmission screen/filter, clean out the pan, and replenish the (4qts?) of Type-IV this weekend. I thought I had all the tools I needed, but ran into two things unexpected. So I simply drained the fluid and replenished and saved the task for another day.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
The two things that were unexpected:
1. Those same 2 bolts you mentioned at the front of the pan. I'd like to avoid removing that cat bracket. I was thinking perhaps a flex socket or a flex extension bar. But it looks like a VERY tight/shallow area.
2. There is a metal tubing/pipe permanently attached to the pan. I believe that is dipstick tube. Is that attached anywhere above the pan, or is it so rigid that it doesn't have any other attachment? I couldn't visually see anything there.
Thank you.
EDIT: I figure it out. For future reference: the dipstick tube is not attached to anything. Once I got the pan separated, the tube also come off. It takes a lot of pressure to separate the pan due to the factory sealant. A lot more pressure than I thought it is needed. Also, I did this at home with car lifted up on jack stands. Not the most comfortable way to wrench while I am on my back, but it is doable. I just take my time, take lots of breaks and patience.
Last edited by BCT; 12-25-16 at 06:20 PM.