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Old 12-12-14, 04:47 PM
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Replacing Front Shocks this weekend

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Old 08-08-14, 06:25 AM   #1
mandyfig
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Default Replacing Front Shocks this weekend

Replacing Front Shocks this weekend

I have purchased the shocks (KYB) and intend to do the swap this weekend.

Questions, concerns:

1. Do I need to support the strut assy from below before I remove?
2. As mentioned since I am just replacing shocks, I do not think it is necessary for an alignment, true?
3. Anything that I am missing?
4. Tips?

Thanks a lot in advance for your feedback, input and insults included!
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Old 08-08-14, 06:48 AM   #2
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I did this a few years ago and I don't recall anything unusual. I think I slid something under the lower control arm, but not sure if it was needed. Use a good quality spring compressor and be careful. As for alignment, technically no, but since mine was going in for tires a few days later I had the alignment done.
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Old 08-08-14, 07:15 AM   #3
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Thanks a lot kjcole. I was thinking about supporting the lower control arm, enough to get that full weight off the springs/shocks. Also will help with some compression of the springs.

I actually have 1 leaking shock and need to replace the pair. I have noticed how the front end was bopping and for sure when I hit potholes, it was like a huge jarring event. Time for the shocks to be replaced.

The Rear Shocks, I think that is a different animal?
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Old 08-08-14, 07:17 AM   #4
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I have heard that the shock absorber nut is sometimes a challenge to remove.
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Old 08-08-14, 08:48 AM   #5
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In my case everything really went smoothly. I don't recall anything that slowed me up, but YMMV. Jump in, don't rush.

Note added as my elderly brain jump starts: Yes I needed a long pipe for a breaker bar on the bottom nut.

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Old 08-09-14, 08:38 AM   #6
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Do I need to do anything on the new shocks? Or is it plug and play?
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Old 08-09-14, 11:43 AM   #7
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Chime in anybody who has done this before.

Do I need to get the knuckle off?

The manual says that you need to. But I do not have an SST tool to remove it. Looking at it, it appears that you can bypass this step. But I highly doubt it.

Thanks.
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Old 08-09-14, 12:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandyfig View Post
Chime in anybody who has done this before.

Do I need to get the knuckle off?

The manual says that you need to. But I do not have an SST tool to remove it. Looking at it, it appears that you can bypass this step. But I highly doubt it.

Thanks.
Hi Mandy

If you turn the steering fully one way (cant remember which) you can remove the whole shocker without breaking the knuckle.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 08-09-14, 12:53 PM   #9
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Steve,

Thanks a lot. I stopped on my tracks when I could not get the shock absorber frame nut to come off. My electric impact wrench could not handle it. I tried a long breaker bar, but to no avail.

So I put everything back for now.

What I did not try is using a jack to free up the nut. I may try this tomorrow. I will also experiment on turning the wheels to see how I can free up the strut assy without removing the knuckle.

Or else I will bring my shocks to my friend's shop and let them swap my shocks.

Thanks again Steve.

Tomorrow's another day!
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Old 08-09-14, 01:52 PM   #10
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Is it stuck or is the rod spinning with the nut.

Whoops you mean bottom nut. My bad

Last edited by kjcole; 08-09-14 at 03:51 PM..
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Old 08-09-14, 02:20 PM   #11
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Support lower control arm on a jack. Remove the three nuts on the top. Remove bottom bolt. Lower control arm (May have to remove caliper if brake hose limits you. Slide assembly out. Install spring compressors and disassemble on the bench. That top nut shouldn't resist a breaker bar???

Again my bad. You are stuck on the bottom nut. Apply some heat? Let some penetrating oil soak in?

I remember now. I had to use a 4 ft iron pipe for a breaker bar

Last edited by kjcole; 08-09-14 at 06:12 PM..
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Old 08-10-14, 07:28 AM   #12
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Great thanks. Steve recommended to swing the tire to one side, which makes sense. The only way out is to the front, means wheels turn to right, which turns the caliper shield away allowing space to free up the assy.

Also I forgot the PB Blaster, which I am about to spray the nut. Reading through the manual, there was no suggestion of supporting the bottom, so I will take it slow, if need be I will. For the stubborn nut, I will use a jack and a breaker bar, I am sure I can take it out. The manual shows the orientation of the shocks and spring, which currently appears wrong on how it is installed. I will follow the manual.

Here we go, I will take pics along the way.

Thanks kjole and Steve.
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Old 08-10-14, 07:55 AM   #13
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Good Luck, I am following this closely. All feedback is appreciated.
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Old 08-10-14, 09:46 AM   #14
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I am a beaten man for now. I could not get the shock mount bolt to pull out. The stabilizer bar is on the way. This leads me to believe the knuckle has to be released. I have to borrow an SST tool to release the knuckle.

I could have forced it, however how the heck will I get the bolt back to the shock mount. Almost did not agree why they put the head of the bolt on that side and not the other way, I am sure there is a function. And you can not really install it the opposite way.

Supporting it from below helped and I found out that it is better to lift both sides of the car so the stabilizer bar is even. I had to do this so I could get the bolt to line up, then I could get it through the bracket.

I will post a picture later where I hit stalemate.

For now the bolt is back and nut tightened until the next time...

SST Tool here I come. I also need this tool so I can replace my rear driver side upper control arm which is busted. All good.
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Old 08-10-14, 09:56 AM   #15
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Mandyfly you need to loosen the sway bar and swing it downward out of the way, plus ensure the wheels are off the car and the side you are working on, turn the rotor inward to allow you access to the shock assembly. There is no need to loosen the knuckle. I had Coilovers installed in my car yesterday and I watched the installer carefully how he removed my shocks.
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Old 08-10-14, 09:56 AM
 
 
 
 
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