12-12-14, 03:47 PM
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- How to Replace Front Shocks
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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Replacing Front Shocks this weekend
08-10-14, 09:04 AM
#16
Something I learned from old guy... when nut seems stuck (with rust or whatever) try tightening the nut just a smidge to break the hold...this may or may not be relevant here ...but it has worked for me many times on nuts of all sizes...WWII
08-10-14, 11:51 AM
#17
Instructor
I am a beaten man for now. I could not get the shock mount bolt to pull out. The stabilizer bar is on the way. This leads me to believe the knuckle has to be released. I have to borrow an SST tool to release the knuckle.
I could have forced it, however how the heck will I get the bolt back to the shock mount. Almost did not agree why they put the head of the bolt on that side and not the other way, I am sure there is a function. And you can not really install it the opposite way.
Supporting it from below helped and I found out that it is better to lift both sides of the car so the stabilizer bar is even. I had to do this so I could get the bolt to line up, then I could get it through the bracket.
I will post a picture later where I hit stalemate.
For now the bolt is back and nut tightened until the next time...
SST Tool here I come. I also need this tool so I can replace my rear driver side upper control arm which is busted. All good.
I could have forced it, however how the heck will I get the bolt back to the shock mount. Almost did not agree why they put the head of the bolt on that side and not the other way, I am sure there is a function. And you can not really install it the opposite way.
Supporting it from below helped and I found out that it is better to lift both sides of the car so the stabilizer bar is even. I had to do this so I could get the bolt to line up, then I could get it through the bracket.
I will post a picture later where I hit stalemate.
For now the bolt is back and nut tightened until the next time...
SST Tool here I come. I also need this tool so I can replace my rear driver side upper control arm which is busted. All good.
Hi Mandy
A couple of pics that may help.
Hope they help.
Cheers
Steve
08-10-14, 01:48 PM
#18
Moderator
Thread Starter
Mandyfly you need to loosen the sway bar and swing it downward out of the way, plus ensure the wheels are off the car and the side you are working on, turn the rotor inward to allow you access to the shock assembly. There is no need to loosen the knuckle. I had Coilovers installed in my car yesterday and I watched the installer carefully how he removed my shocks.
08-10-14, 02:05 PM
#19
Moderator
Thread Starter
Great pics wow now I know what to do. I just bought the tie rod puller as well. What threw me off is there was no mention of removing the sway bar link in the manual. Thanks again for the pics.
08-10-14, 05:04 PM
#20
Lead Lap
Hey Mandy, I did this back in 2010 and I did remove the knuckle and the sway bar bolt. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...r-install.html
Good luck on your upgrade!
Good luck on your upgrade!
08-10-14, 05:20 PM
#21
Mandyfig, there is no need to remove the stabilizer links. Just remove the bolt and nut on each side of the links. Once you accomplish that, you can swing the sway bar down and out of your way. Here is a photo ( not the best) that shows the front sway bar dangling out of the way.
08-11-14, 07:56 PM
#22
Moderator
Thread Starter
Hey Mandy, I did this back in 2010 and I did remove the knuckle and the sway bar bolt. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...r-install.html
Good luck on your upgrade!
Good luck on your upgrade!
08-11-14, 07:57 PM
#23
Moderator
Thread Starter
Mandyfig, there is no need to remove the stabilizer links. Just remove the bolt and nut on each side of the links. Once you accomplish that, you can swing the sway bar down and out of your way. Here is a photo ( not the best) that shows the front sway bar dangling out of the way.
08-24-14, 04:45 PM
#24
Moderator
Thread Starter
After 2 days of hard work the front shocks have been replaced. In the end, since I did not have the right tools to get the upper arm nut out, I ended up removing the upper arm by unbolting the the 2 bolts that held it on the frame. This gave me the room to pull out the shock absorber assembly. The tir rod puller I bought from Advance Auto was not the right tool.
Again the way to go it to get the right tool to remove the upper arm nut.
Anyway after countless hours, the 2 sets have been replaced. Took it for a test drive and sure enough it rides good.
Must have lost a few pounds since it was 95 degrees today.
All good. Maybe the rears are next. Which reminds me, it requires a different SST tool! Darn those special tools to remove the tie bars!
Again the way to go it to get the right tool to remove the upper arm nut.
Anyway after countless hours, the 2 sets have been replaced. Took it for a test drive and sure enough it rides good.
Must have lost a few pounds since it was 95 degrees today.
All good. Maybe the rears are next. Which reminds me, it requires a different SST tool! Darn those special tools to remove the tie bars!
08-25-14, 01:48 AM
#25
Instructor
After 2 days of hard work the front shocks have been replaced. In the end, since I did not have the right tools to get the upper arm nut out, I ended up removing the upper arm by unbolting the the 2 bolts that held it on the frame. This gave me the room to pull out the shock absorber assembly. The tir rod puller I bought from Advance Auto was not the right tool.
Again the way to go it to get the right tool to remove the upper arm nut.
Anyway after countless hours, the 2 sets have been replaced. Took it for a test drive and sure enough it rides good.
Must have lost a few pounds since it was 95 degrees today.
All good. Maybe the rears are next. Which reminds me, it requires a different SST tool! Darn those special tools to remove the tie bars!
Again the way to go it to get the right tool to remove the upper arm nut.
Anyway after countless hours, the 2 sets have been replaced. Took it for a test drive and sure enough it rides good.
Must have lost a few pounds since it was 95 degrees today.
All good. Maybe the rears are next. Which reminds me, it requires a different SST tool! Darn those special tools to remove the tie bars!
Good to hear you got the job done, but I am sure you made it harder for yourself. The shocker comes out without disconnecting the upper arm as I said in my post. I did both sides by just turning the wheel to full lock.
By the way, you don't need any special tools for the rears either, I fitted my coilovers and then air bags without anything other than a standard socket wrench set.
Have a rest up today Mandy,sounds like you deserve it.
Cheers
Steve
08-25-14, 09:22 AM
#26
Moderator
Thread Starter
Steve,
Thanks. Sweat and tears, LOL. But lesson learned definitely. Also, better use quality spring compressors. Also, use better impact wrench, mine was electric and was heating up and giving up.
I am in the hunt for a decent SST tool to remove tie bars.
On a good note the KYB OEM replacement was exact replacement.
This was 1st time in shock absorber replacement, so got this under my belt.
All good.
Mandy
Thanks. Sweat and tears, LOL. But lesson learned definitely. Also, better use quality spring compressors. Also, use better impact wrench, mine was electric and was heating up and giving up.
I am in the hunt for a decent SST tool to remove tie bars.
On a good note the KYB OEM replacement was exact replacement.
This was 1st time in shock absorber replacement, so got this under my belt.
All good.
Mandy
08-26-14, 06:57 AM
#28
Moderator
Thread Starter
KYB do not have them?
08-26-14, 06:57 AM
#29
Moderator
Thread Starter
Or we can always go to SEWELL.
08-26-14, 09:16 AM
#30
.....a couple of years ago, there was a very long thread about rear shocks for the SC. Not sure about now,but at that time, they were a PITA to find & if you did find some, they were pretty expensive. What a lot of members (including myself) ended up doing,was purchasing the rears for the 2002-2005 GS300. One of the members found out that the set up on the SC & GS were the same & you could use the same shocks listed for the GS.Listings for rear shocks for the GS were easier to find & much cheaper,sometimes up to 3x cheaper than SC shocks. I bought a set of Bilstein & they bolted up without an issue.It's been almost 2 years now & going strong