mcgene

I appreciate all the input.
At this time I am waiting for the repair kit to arrive. Decided to take the least expensive route first.
Will update my post after completion to comment on the ease of the repair and my observation about the sound.
Gene

BumpMaster

The repair kits are all over Ebay ! The door speakers are JBL, but do a sc 430 door speaker search and you'll find dozens.

hlovepenn

Several years ago my wife had trouble with her SC430 door speakers and I removed them and had them repaired at Freeman-Tuell Speaker Service, LLC, www.freemantuell.com
(214) 324-1132 They had to refoam them and I believe they charged about $60/speaker--far less than the price of new speakers. We have been very happy with the results.

mcgene

The kit arrived but so did the holiday. Will be working on the repair this week.
Will share my experience when complete.
Gene

mandyfig

Please take pics as you go along. Thanks.

mcgene

Unrelated to the topic but would like to know how to modify signature to include Car description.
Thanks
Gene

mcgene

Update on 7/18/2014
Repaired the 6x9 door speaker on the driver's side using the kit from Simply Speakers.
Followed the video on YouTube re: replacing sc430 door speakers. It's about 30 minutes long and a shout-out to the guy who posted it.
Also, from this forum printed the directions provided by a guru on the topic. Sorry, I don't recall who the guy is. Kudos to him too.
I removed all the screws, clips, plugs -- you name it -- but could not get the door panel to come off. You really have to yank on it to break free of the clips inside the door. They don't break -- but you can't see them so I was really nervous about the effort it took.
I used a pipe about 12" inches long to prop the bottom portion of the panel open.
That gave me access to the speaker screws.
Removed the speaker and began the repair.
Since my car is a 2002 -- the glue on the speaker that has to be removed before installing the new surround was a pistol for me. I used mineral spirits, goo-off, rubbing alcohol -- and of course elbow grease. I finally had to use my dremel with a small wire brush. Got it clean as a whistle. Followed the instructions provided and it went smoothly.
This next step was most helpful on the reinstall. Since I couldn't get the panel off -- I decided to remove the speaker cover in the door panel which gave me clear access to the top screw of the speaker housing. Before closing everything up -- I tested the speaker with a serious bass track -- sounded perfect.
I started at noon and finished at 5:30 -- and get this -- didn't get mad a single time (rare for me!!!!)
Sorry, I didn't take pics as requested -- but will try to do so when I do the passenger door. This time I was too focused on just getting it done.
Hope this is useful to others.
-gene

DarthSid

Nice job. The first time I tried to removed the door panels I had a very difficult time removing them. The second go, I mustarded enough courage and was successful in removing the door panels. If you are able to remove the panels, remember there is wire harnesses attached and cables on the door latch. The picture will provide a clue on what is behind the panel cover. When you detach the bottom light harness for the courtesy light, you will also need to remove the tweeter speaker cover before attempting the panel cover removal. With one hand on the leather door panel handle, and the other at the top edge of the rolled down window at the panel top edge (centered), tilt panel bottom slightly toward you and pull on handle upwards. You may have to position the hand on the center edge towards the rear top edge of the panel for leverage. Don't be afraid to add some force. Good luck.

DJB973

Hi. I have the same year SC430. I too had to do something with my speakers. I replaced the front 6x9 at a cost of ~300 each. Just yesterday, I repaired the two 4" rears and the 16ohm sub as it was impossible to find one. Anyway, the repair was simple. Visit http://www.simplyspeakers.com they have videos of how to, and if you call them, they know which repair kits are for your car. It was easy and cheap. the original ML system in that car is quite nice.

Hope that helps.
David

mcgene

As expected, the second time around was a breeze. Didn't even try to remove the door panel -- just propped it open at the bottom and removed the speaker grill cover to access the 4 screws.

If anyone is the least bit timid about tackling this project -- believe me -- if I can do it -- anyone can.

Going to try and upload the 2 pics that I think will be most helpful that I have not seen in other posts. No reason to load up the board with pics that are already available.

The 2 pics show the speaker cover removed and the clear view you have to the speaker itself. For me, this was just the easiest approach. No need to even remove the tweeter housing.

Also, just a note, I found that using a plastic putty knife was safer when prying up the window controls..

By the way -- the system sounds fantastic -- I guess the way Mark Levinson planned it.

rlp1949

I see David refers to the two 4" rears and a 16 ohm sub. Is there a sub in this car? If so, where is it? Also, is it difficult to get to the 4" rears?

rlp1949

I've answered part of my own question about the subwoofer. I'm slowly but surely getting better at using the search function. I've attached the link I found in case anyone stumbles across my post but not this thread.

I think most of my speakers are blown, including the woofers and the rear four-inchers. Looks like I will be placing an order with Simply Speakers.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ofer-foam.html

ShawnOk

iTrader: (1)

In regards to the 16 ohm sub, you could do as I (and other members who followed my lead) did. I purchased a dual voice coil subwoofer from ebay that ran 8ohm per coil and then wired it in series, therefore totaling the needed 16ohm. There's a post on this forum with my mod, as well as my upgrades to Rockford Fosgates in the door and rear. I get great sound but have since decided to go with more power and am in the process of having a custom box made for a Rockford Fosgate 8" sub (P1S2-8, 200w RMS, 400w max) with a JL A1200 monoblock amp (2ohm @ 12.5v- 200w RMS)