Oil change & rotation cost
#16
My last oil change at the Lexus dealership I was charged the same as FLYCT. I get to drive their water, eat their pastries, surf the the web on their iPads for free. No need to get my hands dirty. Been there, done that!
#17
Well I would have to agree. What you really should do is put 2-3 qts in (maybe conv. oil with same viscosity and put drain plug back in and let the motor idle a few minutes to pump the new oil thru the motor then let it sit and let the oil drain back into the pan, then drain and refill with whatever oil you are gunna use.
#18
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Well I would have to agree. What you really should do is put 2-3 qts in (maybe conv. oil with same viscosity and put drain plug back in and let the motor idle a few minutes to pump the new oil thru the motor then let it sit and let the oil drain back into the pan, then drain and refill with whatever oil you are gunna use.
my point really just was that after an oil change I noticed old oil remaining and not just once, but everytime so I wasnt wrong to mention. Put in that extra bit of new oil.. saw more old stuff come out.. closed it up.. drove.. checked, dip stick clean.. im happy and the best part is it can be done right there the first time..
#19
5) Open the drain plug, let all the fluid drain into the oil pan.. Once it stops dripping, I lower the car slightly from one side and more oil comes out, then other side until car is completely on the ground and you will see a line of black oil draining for a WHILE.. once stopped, raise the car slighty just for better view and pour in a liter of new oil and wait for all that to drain. I usually see perfectly clear oil after a liter but if you dont then pour some more but make sure you let it all drain so you dont end up having extra oil after.
Of course there is the other extreme - New diesel tractor engines that have oil change intervals of 500,000 miles (they do change oil filters in between).
The magic of modern oil is in the additives, and synthetic oil stops working because the additives are used up and then the oil severely oxidizes. Periodically these diesel engines remove a measured amount of old oil from the sump and mix it with the diesel fuel to be burned. Then they inject the same measured amount of new oil from a clean reservoir so that the average level of additives in the sump stays high enough for the oil to continue to protect the engine.
This same type of oil make-up system has been used for years in engines in process equipment where down time costs are measured in thousands or tens of thousands of dollars per hour.
#20
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
If all that work makes you feel good about your engine then more power to you!
Of course there is the other extreme - New diesel tractor engines that have oil change intervals of 500,000 miles (they do change oil filters in between).
The magic of modern oil is in the additives, and synthetic oil stops working because the additives are used up and then the oil severely oxidizes. Periodically these diesel engines remove a measured amount of old oil from the sump and mix it with the diesel fuel to be burned. Then they inject the same measured amount of new oil from a clean reservoir so that the average level of additives in the sump stays high enough for the oil to continue to protect the engine.
This same type of oil make-up system has been used for years in engines in process equipment where down time costs are measured in thousands or tens of thousands of dollars per hour.
Of course there is the other extreme - New diesel tractor engines that have oil change intervals of 500,000 miles (they do change oil filters in between).
The magic of modern oil is in the additives, and synthetic oil stops working because the additives are used up and then the oil severely oxidizes. Periodically these diesel engines remove a measured amount of old oil from the sump and mix it with the diesel fuel to be burned. Then they inject the same measured amount of new oil from a clean reservoir so that the average level of additives in the sump stays high enough for the oil to continue to protect the engine.
This same type of oil make-up system has been used for years in engines in process equipment where down time costs are measured in thousands or tens of thousands of dollars per hour.
#21
I buy the filters in bulk for $4.95 each. I buy 5 qt jugs of wal-mart supertec 5w-30 for $12.72. It costs me less than $18 for an oil change.
I buy the cheapest oil I can find and that's exactly what I've been running in my SC400 for 333K miles. I stuck a fiber optic borescope into the cylinders during the last spark plug change at around 300K miles. The cylinders clearly showed the original honing cross hatches. All cylinder measured 174 to 175 psi on the compression gauge.
I used to be a synthetic nut back in the days and would probably still use synthetic on a turbo car, but that's pretty much the only exception. Modern oils are so good you don't need synthetic and unless something else fails like the cooling system, I challenge anyone here to point out a lexus engine that had an internally lubricated part fail.
I don't mess with trying to drain out every little last bit of oil. It takes me five minutes from start to finish to do the oil change and clean everything up.
On the SC400, I take the additional step of changing the transmission fluid at every oil change. The pan only contains 2 qts and I suck it out with a marine pump and put two qts back in. You never hear of engine failures due to bad oil or infrequent oil changes but transmissions fail all the time because people drive 60K+ miles without changing the fluid.
The SC430's 6 speed transmission from 2006+ unfortunately cannot be changed as easily since there is no dip. But the WS fluid is supposed to be really good. Never the less, I'll probably change it at 30K miles (odometer currently at 23K miles).
I buy the cheapest oil I can find and that's exactly what I've been running in my SC400 for 333K miles. I stuck a fiber optic borescope into the cylinders during the last spark plug change at around 300K miles. The cylinders clearly showed the original honing cross hatches. All cylinder measured 174 to 175 psi on the compression gauge.
I used to be a synthetic nut back in the days and would probably still use synthetic on a turbo car, but that's pretty much the only exception. Modern oils are so good you don't need synthetic and unless something else fails like the cooling system, I challenge anyone here to point out a lexus engine that had an internally lubricated part fail.
I don't mess with trying to drain out every little last bit of oil. It takes me five minutes from start to finish to do the oil change and clean everything up.
On the SC400, I take the additional step of changing the transmission fluid at every oil change. The pan only contains 2 qts and I suck it out with a marine pump and put two qts back in. You never hear of engine failures due to bad oil or infrequent oil changes but transmissions fail all the time because people drive 60K+ miles without changing the fluid.
The SC430's 6 speed transmission from 2006+ unfortunately cannot be changed as easily since there is no dip. But the WS fluid is supposed to be really good. Never the less, I'll probably change it at 30K miles (odometer currently at 23K miles).
#22
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Thread Starter
Ok. Today I went to local Lexus dealer and had the oil changed. I did not go for synthetic. I'll explain why below. Cost was $38 with discount coupon. I also ate about 2 dozen freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. Drank 2 cans of juice. My dog got to see all her friends at the dealership. She also filled up on doggy treats that the employees offered her.
On my CT I had synthetic oil because it's required to maintain warranty.
I've had 2 bad experiences with 100% synthetic. When Mobil One came out I used it in my 300zx. Shortly after using it I started to burn oil and seep oil from several engine seals. Yes, my MPG went up the advertised 5%, from 20 mpg to 21 mpg. Big deal. After that I was using 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles.
The other bad experience was with Mobil AV-1 aviation 100% synthetic oil. It was a nightmare for Mobil. It cost them millions of dollars having to pay to overhaul aircraft engines that were destroyed using their oil. While synthetic is an excellent slippery oil it does not do a good job keeping contaminants in suspension. 100's of engines were destroyed due to sludge. Mobil pulled the oil off the market after that. http://www.avweb.com/news/news/18289...l?redirected=1
While I only had 3000 miles on my 98 SC430's oil, it's been 10 months so I got it changed as I don't like oil older than 6 months in my engines.
BTW, As I said, I don't mind getting dirty. But crawling under my SC430 is not for me. I've been doing all my own oil changes on my aircraft since no crawling under the plane is needed, immediately after a flight I drain oil from the pan and the oil cooler, take a mid stream oil sample for analysis and remove the spin on filter. I let it drain overnight into a 5 gallon bucket come back the following day, install a new spin on filter, safety wire it and add the required 8-12 qts of oil. I also cut open the filter and inspect for metal. Then do a run up to until oil gets to 150 degrees, shut down and inspect closely for any leaks. And yes, I don't use synthetic, I use a Phillips multi weight petroleum based oil.
JR
On my CT I had synthetic oil because it's required to maintain warranty.
I've had 2 bad experiences with 100% synthetic. When Mobil One came out I used it in my 300zx. Shortly after using it I started to burn oil and seep oil from several engine seals. Yes, my MPG went up the advertised 5%, from 20 mpg to 21 mpg. Big deal. After that I was using 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles.
The other bad experience was with Mobil AV-1 aviation 100% synthetic oil. It was a nightmare for Mobil. It cost them millions of dollars having to pay to overhaul aircraft engines that were destroyed using their oil. While synthetic is an excellent slippery oil it does not do a good job keeping contaminants in suspension. 100's of engines were destroyed due to sludge. Mobil pulled the oil off the market after that. http://www.avweb.com/news/news/18289...l?redirected=1
While I only had 3000 miles on my 98 SC430's oil, it's been 10 months so I got it changed as I don't like oil older than 6 months in my engines.
BTW, As I said, I don't mind getting dirty. But crawling under my SC430 is not for me. I've been doing all my own oil changes on my aircraft since no crawling under the plane is needed, immediately after a flight I drain oil from the pan and the oil cooler, take a mid stream oil sample for analysis and remove the spin on filter. I let it drain overnight into a 5 gallon bucket come back the following day, install a new spin on filter, safety wire it and add the required 8-12 qts of oil. I also cut open the filter and inspect for metal. Then do a run up to until oil gets to 150 degrees, shut down and inspect closely for any leaks. And yes, I don't use synthetic, I use a Phillips multi weight petroleum based oil.
JR
Last edited by FLYCT; 03-06-14 at 11:07 PM.
#23
Toyota dealer quoted $79.95 for synthetic oil change and $39.95 for petroleum oil change.
Lexus dealer quote the same less a 10% discount for $72 ood.
If I buy oil, filter and drain gasket I'm looking at about $35 in parts and if I go to independent it will cost me another $15 for labor, so $35+$15 = $50. So for an additional $22 I'm going to let Lexus do it. I can drink their soda, watch Fox News complain about Obama Care on their republican TV while lounging in their overstuffed leather chairs, eat all the freshly baked chocolate chip cookies and bagels and cream cheese I can stuff in my mouth in the 1 hours it takes. Plus I get the car washed and vacuumed. I'll bring my wife so she can also have free lunch. Our dog likes going their because they give her treats also.
Oh I forgot, I get to say no thanks to replacing my wiper blades, engine air filter and cabin air filter. . Those I can do with my bad back.
JR
Lexus dealer quote the same less a 10% discount for $72 ood.
If I buy oil, filter and drain gasket I'm looking at about $35 in parts and if I go to independent it will cost me another $15 for labor, so $35+$15 = $50. So for an additional $22 I'm going to let Lexus do it. I can drink their soda, watch Fox News complain about Obama Care on their republican TV while lounging in their overstuffed leather chairs, eat all the freshly baked chocolate chip cookies and bagels and cream cheese I can stuff in my mouth in the 1 hours it takes. Plus I get the car washed and vacuumed. I'll bring my wife so she can also have free lunch. Our dog likes going their because they give her treats also.
Oh I forgot, I get to say no thanks to replacing my wiper blades, engine air filter and cabin air filter. . Those I can do with my bad back.
JR
#24
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Ok. Today I went to local Lexus dealer and had the oil changed. I did not go for synthetic. I'll explain why below. Cost was $38 with discount coupon. I also ate about 2 dozen freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. Drank 2 cans of juice. My dog got to see all her friends at the dealership. She also filled up on doggy treats that the employees offered her.
On my CT I had synthetic oil because it's required to maintain warranty.
I've had 2 bad experiences with 100% synthetic. When Mobil One came out I used it in my 300zx. Shortly after using it I started to burn oil and seep oil from several engine seals. Yes, my MPG went up the advertised 5%, from 20 mpg to 21 mpg. Big deal. After that I was using 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles.
The other bad experience was with Mobil AV-1 aviation 100% synthetic oil. It was a nightmare for Mobil. It cost them millions of dollars having to pay to overhaul aircraft engines that were destroyed using their oil. While synthetic is an excellent slippery oil it does not do a good job keeping contaminants in suspension. 100's of engines were destroyed due to sludge. Mobil pulled the oil off the market after that. http://www.avweb.com/news/news/18289...l?redirected=1
While I only had 3000 miles on my 98 SC430's oil, it's been 10 months so I got it changed as I don't like oil older than 6 months in my engines.
BTW, As I said, I don't mind getting dirty. But crawling under my SC430 is not for me. I've been doing all my own oil changes on my aircraft since no crawling under the plane is needed, immediately after a flight I drain oil from the pan and the oil cooler, take a mid stream oil sample for analysis and remove the spin on filter. I let it drain overnight into a 5 gallon bucket come back the following day, install a new spin on filter, safety wire it and add the required 8-12 qts of oil. I also cut open the filter and inspect for metal. Then do a run up to until oil gets to 150 degrees, shut down and inspect closely for any leaks. And yes, I don't use synthetic, I use a Phillips multi weight petroleum based oil.
JR
On my CT I had synthetic oil because it's required to maintain warranty.
I've had 2 bad experiences with 100% synthetic. When Mobil One came out I used it in my 300zx. Shortly after using it I started to burn oil and seep oil from several engine seals. Yes, my MPG went up the advertised 5%, from 20 mpg to 21 mpg. Big deal. After that I was using 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles.
The other bad experience was with Mobil AV-1 aviation 100% synthetic oil. It was a nightmare for Mobil. It cost them millions of dollars having to pay to overhaul aircraft engines that were destroyed using their oil. While synthetic is an excellent slippery oil it does not do a good job keeping contaminants in suspension. 100's of engines were destroyed due to sludge. Mobil pulled the oil off the market after that. http://www.avweb.com/news/news/18289...l?redirected=1
While I only had 3000 miles on my 98 SC430's oil, it's been 10 months so I got it changed as I don't like oil older than 6 months in my engines.
BTW, As I said, I don't mind getting dirty. But crawling under my SC430 is not for me. I've been doing all my own oil changes on my aircraft since no crawling under the plane is needed, immediately after a flight I drain oil from the pan and the oil cooler, take a mid stream oil sample for analysis and remove the spin on filter. I let it drain overnight into a 5 gallon bucket come back the following day, install a new spin on filter, safety wire it and add the required 8-12 qts of oil. I also cut open the filter and inspect for metal. Then do a run up to until oil gets to 150 degrees, shut down and inspect closely for any leaks. And yes, I don't use synthetic, I use a Phillips multi weight petroleum based oil.
JR
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sweetboy02
RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015)
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06-23-14 09:35 PM