My Antenna Mod- Opinions Please?
#1
My Antenna Mod- Opinions Please?
So about two months ago, my antenna mast failed. It would rise just fine, but then on exiting the vehicle it wouldn't retract completely. It would stop at about 10". I had to remember to get out within about 30 seconds of removing the key from the ignition, and physically touch the mast to make it recess fully. One certain instance, I forgot to physically touch it and someone passing between cars seemed to have snagged themselves on the mast and bent it. I finally decided to mod it slightly b'c I would hate to come out to my car one day and find the mast snapped. I also would hate to have the motor ruined due to water damage of having on open antenna mast hole if I just removed the mast. Also, I know it's much of a hot topic here, but I feel the antenna compliments the back end of the SC430. I don't like how round the trunk is, per se, so I feel the antenna sort of draws the eyes away from that. That sort of "feng shui" balance. Anyway, I contacted Lexus and a new mast was $100 plus 2 hours labor, and if the motor went bad it would increase to about $500 and 2 hours labor. Both insanely ridiculous for an old fashioned telescoping antenna, in my opinion. (I know there are cheaper masts on Ebay, but please keep reading.)
Additionally, I have a direct connect iSimple FM modulator installed that ties in at back of the head unit in order to run an Aux input, and the sound for my DVD/NAV/Media Player mod. I run the FM modulator full time rather than on a toggle switch as it was intended. Luckily our vehicles have two antennas: the rear telescoping antennae and a front windshield mounted antenna. Therefore even though the FM modulator should act as an interrupter for all FM frequencies, I am still able to pick up stations due to the windshield antenna. Pretty lucky turn of events. So since the rear antenna's signal was always being blocked by the FM transmitter anyway, I decided to upgrade it to a stationary rubber antenna that wasn't so old school since it was serving no true functional purpose toward catching FM stations. I searched quite a few car parts stores and turned to Radio Shack. I found a 7" scanner antenna ($25) that I felt I could modify to fit properly. I had to cut off about an inch of the BNC connection and "peel back" the rubber surround but it fit perfectly into the motor assembly's mast tube. I was even able to keep the OEM antenna chrome dressing nut. I also felt that with this mod, if I ever chose to put a new OEM telescoping antenna back, there's no damage to the motor by stuffing an improper mast in there. I would love to hear your opinions, please. Thanks for reading.
PS. This antenna could theoretically be modified in order to be functional for proper FM reception with an adapter, but I chose not to stress myself with making this a major modification project.
Additionally, I have a direct connect iSimple FM modulator installed that ties in at back of the head unit in order to run an Aux input, and the sound for my DVD/NAV/Media Player mod. I run the FM modulator full time rather than on a toggle switch as it was intended. Luckily our vehicles have two antennas: the rear telescoping antennae and a front windshield mounted antenna. Therefore even though the FM modulator should act as an interrupter for all FM frequencies, I am still able to pick up stations due to the windshield antenna. Pretty lucky turn of events. So since the rear antenna's signal was always being blocked by the FM transmitter anyway, I decided to upgrade it to a stationary rubber antenna that wasn't so old school since it was serving no true functional purpose toward catching FM stations. I searched quite a few car parts stores and turned to Radio Shack. I found a 7" scanner antenna ($25) that I felt I could modify to fit properly. I had to cut off about an inch of the BNC connection and "peel back" the rubber surround but it fit perfectly into the motor assembly's mast tube. I was even able to keep the OEM antenna chrome dressing nut. I also felt that with this mod, if I ever chose to put a new OEM telescoping antenna back, there's no damage to the motor by stuffing an improper mast in there. I would love to hear your opinions, please. Thanks for reading.
PS. This antenna could theoretically be modified in order to be functional for proper FM reception with an adapter, but I chose not to stress myself with making this a major modification project.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 09-25-13 at 11:04 PM.
#5
Here's what the actual piece looked like before I cut off the BNC male connection. So as I was saying, theoretically, you could connect the antenna lead wire to this antenna's base with an extension cable and an adapter, and then place it in the factory chrome antenna nut and ornament (housing). But reinforcing it would require modification b'c the motor won't be there to butt up against the antenna base (to hold it flush against the inner Q-panel wall). If there's no motor as structural reinforcement then someone could just push the rubber mast inward, and it would fall into the gap inside the quarter panel. Another option if the motor is removed, was to epoxy/WB Weld it into the antenna nut (which would have been my next method if this had failed). It's very confusing to explain, I know, but I hope it makes sense on some level. AS A DISCLAIMER: I am unsure on the quality or results of reception in comparison of my proposed method vs the metal telescoping antenna. The rubber antenna I used was an unpowered 800Mhz. Not sure what the POWERED OEM one was...
Also SLVBULLET, I'm not sure what you mean by "will IT? work without the modulator for an oem radio." I am still using the OEM head unit but the modulator just interrupts all FM/AM signals coming into the radio from that specific antenna location. Then I can play my AUX on the 88.9 frequency without losing other FM stations b'c the additional windshield antennae still allows those other stations to come through, albeit at a reduced reception. If you didn't have the modulator, it should work just as it does now because you'd still have two fully functional antennae coming into the head unit.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 09-25-13 at 11:11 PM.
#6
UPDATE: Since the OEM cable of the SC430 has a "Motorola" male antenna end and the rubber antenna has a BNC Male end, you'd have to use the two following pieces to make them compatible with each other...
1) BNC to Motorola Adapter http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...utm_medium=CSE
2) Female to Female Antenna Cable http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AM-FM-CAR-RADIO-ANTENNA-ANT-FEMALE-TO-FEMALE-ADAPTER-LEAD-CABLE-US-SELLER-/271187518042?pt=US_Radio_Antennas&hash=item3f2409225a&vxp=mtr or http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRA-40-UV41-FEMALE-TO-FEMALE-UNIVERSAL-ANTENNA-ADAPTER-CONNECTOR-/160895112220?pt=US_Radio_Antennas&hash=item257618941c
1) BNC to Motorola Adapter http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...utm_medium=CSE
2) Female to Female Antenna Cable http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AM-FM-CAR-RADIO-ANTENNA-ANT-FEMALE-TO-FEMALE-ADAPTER-LEAD-CABLE-US-SELLER-/271187518042?pt=US_Radio_Antennas&hash=item3f2409225a&vxp=mtr or http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRA-40-UV41-FEMALE-TO-FEMALE-UNIVERSAL-ANTENNA-ADAPTER-CONNECTOR-/160895112220?pt=US_Radio_Antennas&hash=item257618941c
Last edited by ShawnOk; 09-25-13 at 10:59 PM.
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#9
Mark, I don't have it connected to the trunk antenna cable. It's more for show since I'm using an inline FM transmitter behind the headunit that blocks the signal from that antenna anyway. Luckily for me, the front windshield antenna still works so I can still pick up local FM stations. If you'll have a look at my earlier post, it should explain the situation. In theory, someone could rig this type of antenna to pull reception. Thanks.
#12
Pole Position
iTrader: (11)
I want to shave my antenna off too, They have a kind stereo places sell that are similar to our front antenna its just tiny strip that goes somewhere in the back...I have been considering that but since I am doing a whole new stereo in there with cell phone apps and such I think I might skip it.
#13
MrMark, yeah you've done a lot of unbelievable mods to your car. I'm incredibly impressed. As you know from our convos I really wanted that IMEX kit, but my contacts never came through for me. Bummer. I had originally thought about shaving the antenna also, but the work and cost was not within my reality right now. i am thinking about doing another body kit and so when I start to travel down that road, then shaving the antenna would be more feasble. But, for now I feel that this is a good staging ground for the next attack... whenever that may be.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 09-27-13 at 08:50 AM.
#15
So I've received some messages about how I set this up. Since a picture's worth a thousand words, I will attach a few photos that might explain a little better. As you can see, the motor "tube" allows the structural backing for my rubber antenna; which is acceptable if you choose not to actually wire the antenna b'c then you must cut off the BCN plug and shave the rubber surrounding it in order to allow it to fit into the motor tube.
If you choose to wire the antenna you will have to remove the entire motor unit in order to run the antennae wire to the exterior hole. Thus you'd also be removing the "tube" that acts as the structural backing. So you must find a way to screw the chrome antenna nut to something to allow the entire exterior unit to mount firmly (a normal plumbing metal pipe should work). Then you can just run the stock antenna wire through this pipe and use the two items I posted previously to complete the wire connection. Really shouldn't be a difficult modification. Mine, without the wire connection, took about 10-15 minutes and $25 total. Hope this helps clear up some of the misconception.
If you choose to wire the antenna you will have to remove the entire motor unit in order to run the antennae wire to the exterior hole. Thus you'd also be removing the "tube" that acts as the structural backing. So you must find a way to screw the chrome antenna nut to something to allow the entire exterior unit to mount firmly (a normal plumbing metal pipe should work). Then you can just run the stock antenna wire through this pipe and use the two items I posted previously to complete the wire connection. Really shouldn't be a difficult modification. Mine, without the wire connection, took about 10-15 minutes and $25 total. Hope this helps clear up some of the misconception.