$26 diy VS $1,800 at the dealer. Door lock actuator
07-30-13, 12:06 AM
#1
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$26 diy VS $1,800 at the dealer. Door lock actuator
If anyone has or will have issues with their door lock actuator you'll need to read this.
First off an actuator is the locking mechanism that opens and locks your doors. My driver side and passenger side actuators went bad on my car. Dealer said it'll cost $900 per side to replace and you can't fix it yourself since the part that goes bad is a motor which is inside a glued sealed piece in the actuator assembly so I'll have to buy the whole thing. They are right and wrong. True, it is glued sealed but it is repariable. Once you take the actuator out, using a sharp knife open the glued component. Inside you'll find a motor (see pic) and this is what goes bad. The rest is plastic gearing.
Search amazon for "flat shaft door lock motor" and that's all you need. Costs $13 per side.
Moral of story is try it yourself. Research. Test components and you'll figure it out. You must be smart to have the $ to buy an SC430. DIY before you get bullied out of your money.
First off an actuator is the locking mechanism that opens and locks your doors. My driver side and passenger side actuators went bad on my car. Dealer said it'll cost $900 per side to replace and you can't fix it yourself since the part that goes bad is a motor which is inside a glued sealed piece in the actuator assembly so I'll have to buy the whole thing. They are right and wrong. True, it is glued sealed but it is repariable. Once you take the actuator out, using a sharp knife open the glued component. Inside you'll find a motor (see pic) and this is what goes bad. The rest is plastic gearing.
Search amazon for "flat shaft door lock motor" and that's all you need. Costs $13 per side.
Moral of story is try it yourself. Research. Test components and you'll figure it out. You must be smart to have the $ to buy an SC430. DIY before you get bullied out of your money.
07-30-13, 07:27 AM
#5
WOW great stuff. Found it on amazon as Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT
by Mabuchi The $13 included shipping.
Reminds me of the Lexus dealership estimate to replace the trunk struts for $345 which I replaced for $43 + $11 shipping and it took about 20 minutes of which 10 minutes was finding the correct screw driver of length and narrow tang.
by Mabuchi The $13 included shipping.
Reminds me of the Lexus dealership estimate to replace the trunk struts for $345 which I replaced for $43 + $11 shipping and it took about 20 minutes of which 10 minutes was finding the correct screw driver of length and narrow tang.
ble and again this is wat this forum is about.
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07-30-13, 08:33 AM
#8
This is awesome!
07-30-13, 06:09 PM
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Thank you for everyones support. It is the "FC-280PC-22125 flat shaft" on Amazon so Autoplak is on target. And if its an emergency and you can't wait until the part arrives then go to your local junk yard and get it from an IS300. You're looking at $30-$50 at the yard.
07-30-13, 08:54 PM
#11
I had the same problem with my drivers door lock motor. I took the actuator out, took it apart (as explained earlier it is glued together) and it looked like new inside, so I cleaned the motor then hooked just the motor by it's self up direct to a battery to spin it and it barely turned, had to give it a spin with my fingers (it sputtered & missed) just kept the battery hooked to it and it hesitated, bucked & snorted but after about 20 to 30 seconds it smoothed out and spun strong and steady as if the commutator & brushes were dirty or something and running it steady for about a minute was all it needed to clean it off. Put it back together and has worked perfect ever since! That was about 2 years ago. "Zero Cost" just my own time invested in my baby. My theory is that the motor only spins a few revolutions either way "Lock & Unlock" so it never gets a chance to spin free for any length of time and builds up some deposits on the com. & brushes. Just wiring 12V direct to the motor it's self after it is removed from the actuator housing and letting it rip is all it needs to "Burn Off" any build up.
Hope this helps some one to save some dollars cuz $1,800.00 dealer price to fix such a simple thing is outrageous!
Hope this helps some one to save some dollars cuz $1,800.00 dealer price to fix such a simple thing is outrageous!
10-07-13, 11:39 AM
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I had the same problem with my drivers door lock motor. I took the actuator out, took it apart (as explained earlier it is glued together) and it looked like new inside, so I cleaned the motor then hooked just the motor by it's self up direct to a battery to spin it and it barely turned, had to give it a spin with my fingers (it sputtered & missed) just kept the battery hooked to it and it hesitated, bucked & snorted but after about 20 to 30 seconds it smoothed out and spun strong and steady as if the commutator & brushes were dirty or something and running it steady for about a minute was all it needed to clean it off. Put it back together and has worked perfect ever since! That was about 2 years ago. "Zero Cost" just my own time invested in my baby. My theory is that the motor only spins a few revolutions either way "Lock & Unlock" so it never gets a chance to spin free for any length of time and builds up some deposits on the com. & brushes. Just wiring 12V direct to the motor it's self after it is removed from the actuator housing and letting it rip is all it needs to "Burn Off" any build up.
Hope this helps some one to save some dollars cuz $1,800.00 dealer price to fix such a simple thing is outrageous!
Hope this helps some one to save some dollars cuz $1,800.00 dealer price to fix such a simple thing is outrageous!